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#1
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I have a 70 Charger with a 383 with an Edelbrock Performer intake manifold and Edelbrock (Dog Poop)Performer 750cfm carb. Here's my problem...After installing these items a couple months ago, I had to pour gas into the carb to get it to start if the car sat for over 3 days. So I installed a Holley Blue electric fuel pump and bypassed the mechanical pump. This took care of my first problem, but now if I drive the car for over 45 minutes or so, or run some errands around town and start and stop the engine more than a couple of times, the car will not start!!! I have to let it sit for over an hour before it will start again. Acts as if its flooded. Why is this happening and how can I stop this. I plan on going back to a Holley carb, but this is what I have to deal with right now. Please help me!!! Thanks
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#2
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Did you install the regulator when you put in the blue pump?? If not,YOU MUST!!Otherwise you'll have way too much fuel pressure.And did you check the fuel pressure of the mechanical pump before you by-passed it?? A bad fuel pump can lose it's prime.Check these first.The Mopar/Carter Hp pump in the M-P catalog is a good hi-vol mechanical pump and works well.I have one in my 70 'Bird and it works great.
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#3
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The gasoline in your carb may boil if the carb is getting hot(after you shut off the engine)and flooding the engine. I had this problem and a Holley heat shield fixed it.I had a switch on my fuel pump and had to turn the pump off and on to make the car run untill the carb would cool off again. The gas would boil and overflow into the engine after I shut it off.Then the carb now with no gas left in it would get hotter and as soon as the electric pump filled it , it would boil over again.I would start the car with the pump off and cycle the pump off and on till the carb cooled off. The heat shield and thicker insulator carb gasket solved it for me.Next time you think the conditions are right for this to happen try starting the car with the electric pump turned off. Push the accelerator pedal to the floor crank the engine and as soon as it starts let the accelerator back to a lets say 2000 rpm and look for the signs off flooding like black smoke exhaust. I had a M1 intake and Holley carb on mine with big headers and alot of under hood heat. It was fine until I would run around town and then shut it off. Remember that a liquid boils easier when not under pressure and when the engine is hot and you shut off the pump (pressure source )and engine the gas will boil in the carb and dump into the engine.
[This message has been edited by rat roaster (edited February 03, 2001).] |
#4
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Your engine probably no longer has this, but all big blocks orginally came with a heat shield between the valley pan and the intake. It consisted of two metal shields and some insulation thta sat in the pan.
Most engines don't have a problem, when that shield is removed, but some do. ------------------ Ed - MoPower '96 Dodge Ram 1500 SLT CC 360 4X4 '68 Charger 383-4 '69 Coronet 500 Convertible 440-4 [This message has been edited by ehostler (edited February 03, 2001).] |
#5
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Had a similar problem like that with the same carb. You might want to see if the float bowls have cracked, heard these carbs are known to do that.
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#6
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For starters,if any car sits for 3 days and wont start unless primed it usually means that the gas is draining back to the tank due to a failed oneway valve in the fuel pump,also its likely that a fuel pump that does this is not creating ideal pressure,now the reason it wont start hot,its too rich,these 750 carbs have big jets in them,look at your plugs to verify but Ill bet there black,buy a stirp kit and get out your carb manual and rejet.Heres a baseline jet reccomendation. ,101 pri/.098 sec and 68x52 rods ........PRO....
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#7
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Another problem I've had in cold weather with hard starting after several days is plugs that are too cold - especially with point-type ignition. The initial rush of fuel with the choke on washes out the plugs. Going to a hotter plug helps burn off the gas - really good for around town driving, too. In the Champion numbers, I run R15's in my stock 440 street car
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#8
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Mopargator, I have had the same problem on my 383 with the Edelbrock 750 carb. The thick Edelbrock carb thermo spacer solved my restart problem. I was never able to solve the "start after 3 days problem". When I switched to a Holley and installed the larger squirter assembly up front, it always starts with one pump of the accelerator and turn the key. Fires up in one second! Even after two weeks!
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#9
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Heres my problem, My ride used to start great after sittin afew days. But since my fuel pump failed and replaced it, after sitin afew days I have to dance on the pedal and crank the hell out of it to get it going. I replaced it with a same type OEM type pump. Whats the deal there?
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#10
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My Edelbrock carb/intake combo has hot start problems. I wanted to try a 1/2" carb insulating spacer but don't believe there is enough air cleaner to hood clearance.
The valley pan insulator Ehostler mentioned is something I've never seen. Anyone have a photo of one? |
#11
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Mshelly: That heat shield is basically regular insulation wrapped in tin foil. It was put there to keep the valley pan from cracking due to the heat from the exhaust crossover/heat stove thermal cycling/ work hardening the S.S. You can make one. It's about 6" X 6" X 1" thick. Just compress it right under the heat stove when you put the intake on. If you have the exhaust crossover blocked off, don't worry about it.
------------------ 71 RR 97 SS/T Move Over People Are Racing |
#12
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I have seen the heat insulation piece in a stock 69 coronet 383 car! It was the original piece soaked with oil and dirt. The owners never had their car worked on nor taken care of and that is why it was still there stuffed under the intake. It looked just like regular home insulation.
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