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#1
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I want to upgrade my stock rear leaf springs to the MP Super Stock Springs. I have a 70 Charger with a manual trans and the MP Catalog shows a 70 B Body 3800lbs with automatic trans. Part numbers P3690454 and P3690455. Are these the correct springs for my application? Does it really matter between auto and manual trans? Thanks
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#2
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If thats hat the catolog says.....
With a manual trans, you'll want longer shocks. I mean in the way of how much they extend when you launch your car. |
#3
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I don't know if it really makes a difference whether or not the trans is manual or automatic.We switched the Road Runner over to a 727 and kept the 3800lb 4-speed springs,they worked fine.
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#4
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I don't know if this matters to you but when I bought ss springs for my challenger, I went with the 3400#. My car weighed 3500#w/o me in it. The car sits just right. My point is you might want to get one step down in spring weight(3600 instead of 3800) to avoid the blood hound look. just my opinion
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#5
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Another technical bit of info tho ponder before you buy. If you draw an imaginary line on the side of your car from the tire contact patch through the spring eye, this is your instant center. If you then locate where the center of gravity of the car (most, not all, stock type door cars that are 50/50, will be in the middle of the wheelbase and approx. 12"-24" off the ground), and where the instant center meet, you can determine the effect of the spring. An instant center above (hence, behind it)the cg will hit the tire harder. Below, (hence, forward of it) tend to pick weight up from the front more. My point is that the ride height CHANGES the cg thus, allowing the limited front eye adjustment on a leaf spring a chance to get under the cg. For a drag only car, hang the sob up in the air and lower the front eye. It'll hook on oil with a good tire. I don't think a SS spring makes that great of a dual purpose suspension because of these characteristics. My .02 worth from the drag racing school of hard knocks and money wasted.
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#6
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Leigh, I have a set of super stock springs on my 440 street Cuda and was wondering if I should have the front spring bolt in the top or bottom hole in the front mount. And I am going to replace the rear end with a B-Body this spring and want to know if the offset front spring mounts have the two holes like my straight mounts have in them. Thanks
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#7
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Leigh,you make a good point,I did just that by flipping the front spring hanger upside down, that lowered the instant center over an inch,youll have to redrill the mounting holes slightly so add hardened washers but WHAT a DIFFERENCE it makes,I can hardly boil my street tires even with a 4 spd.,dont forget a pinion snubber with 1" of clearance,thats what I love about MOPARS its so simple and built right into the car....PRO...
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#8
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I'm running the extension hanger for the Super Stock springs but am running stock 6 cyl springs right now in an F Body.
I have my springs mounted in the top hole. Wouldn't that move my instant center rearward just like I would like. If you do change holes then I guess that the pinion angle would change so you would have to adjust with wedges. If I add Cal Tracs then I could move my instant center even farther rearward and create more lift of the front suspension. That's how I see it. Jason |
#9
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plumebody: What does the "blood hound look" look like exactly?
Sly |
#10
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Instant center behind cg, less front end weight transfer, faster and harder tire hit. Instant center forward of cg, exactly opposite. Cal Trac's will lower the eye, thus lower the instant center closer to the cg.
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#11
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Quote:
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#12
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FlyBoy,
Is your car pure strip or street/strip? My 440 Cuda is street/strip and I have the Super Stock springs with the 3/4 (0.8") offset hangers and they have two sets of holes for the front spring eye. I am using the upper hole which keeps the rear of the car from being too high for street looks. So, I have very bad weight transfer due to forward CG with the heavy 440 and rearward "instant center." However, at my level of power, I have no problems with traction at the strip. I am running 4.30 gears, 28x10.5x15 MT drag slicks and 1.75 second 60 foot times with a 727, 10" converter and 3690 lbs. Watching the car on video during the launch, almost nothing happens as far as front end rise, but the car goes forward with no tire spin so it works for me. This pic shows how the car sits: http://albums.photopoint.com/j/ViewP...242&p=38823541 http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?...242&p=32512481 ------------------ 440 Jim E-Body Fish: 12.8 sec 1/4 mile with stock exhaust manifolds, 3690 lbs. |
#13
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Leigh Can you expand a little bit on the front spring eye adjustment.You say hang the sob in the air and lower the front eye.When you say lower do you mean to the ground or closer to the body (sob in the air).Pro flipped his mounts witch would put the spring eye up I beleive towards the roof.And then 440 Jim puts his front eye brackets in the upper bolt holes to lower his car and it
hurts his wgt transfer.The reason why I am asking is that my dart sport sits high in the back and I was considering raising the front eye by flipping the mounts to lower the car.My car is front heavy, and I cant tell by the posts that if I do this wether or not I will be helping or hurting.Sport |
#14
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Leigh, I read the posts over again and understand it just fine today. The screen was a little fuzzy last night,and I missed some key points. Your posts were actually very thorough.It was that beer it snuck up on me.Sport
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#15
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I'm planning on putting 2800 pound super stock springs on my 70 Duster. I'm hoping to keep the back end closer to level. Anybody use these instead of the stiffer springs? Thanks Riverside
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#16
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If I had to do it over again, I would get the lighter springs. I agree with plumebody. I also put the front springeye in the upper hole to lower the car in the rear, but it still looks like a 4X4 to me. Especially with my 28" tall tires. I had to crank up the front end all the way just to make it set level.
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#17
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Leigh, What is your opinion on removing the leaf spring clamps on the rear section of s.s. springs? I have 340 street car (11.98 @ 112mph).60 ft. is 1.65.
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#18
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Here we go again . Don't remove the factory installed leaf spring clamps. DANGER ! HEY, WHY DON'T YOU REMOVE ALL THE SHOCK ABSORBERS TOO. BOUNCE OVER THE STARTING LINE DUDE INTO THE BLEACHERS WHILE YOUR AT IT , WHY DON'T YOU HUH MISTER WHY HUH WHY?
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#19
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Mystery_dude;
I think you need a valuim <SP> or a few more beers to relax. I know, I know, let me guess, if you said it before, you said it a thousand times. Please be understanding to those who don't know. After all, you were one to. I also understand seeing the same question over & over & over again can be a fustation but, these people need answers. If it were easy to send them back to a post dated , whatever, and have them read, it would be a good thing. But I can't remember them all. |
#20
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Fly Boy, Each car is different. Adjust to get the best 60' time's and not for cosmetic reasons.
71 Scamp, Try removing them one at a time from the rear. If the car has more rise on the left than the right, remove on the right rear first. I never removed them all, I've seen it, and am leery of that. Thats a good 60' time for that et. Food for thought. I went 1.50 best and 1.55's alway's with a 360, 4.56, and 4500 TA converter in a 69 Dart at 3200lbs. Et was 11.40's. Sport, It's the martini's that usually sneek up on me! |
#21
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RIGHT?
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