bleeding breaks

[bambam]

I still havent scrounged up the bills for a factory service manuel yet. I hate to bother with silly questions but this is my first "hotrod". I dont mind searching for the info. I request but I dont know where to start.

Can anyone suggest where, ONLINE, I can find steps to bleed out my brakes and install new fluid?

I am the PROUD owner of a 1970 Dodge Challenger
(even if it is currently a granny grocery getter!)

Thanks for any help.

Chris-Asheboro NC

PS is there a way to search the forum for this info. without reading the title of every post for the past 60 days?

[DartMan360]

First off welcome to the Mopar Chat Message boards. No question is a stupid one and hope you have fun here. Here is answeres to the questions you asked.

Bleeding brakes is very simple. Much easyer with 2 people but can be done with one. Here is the way I was taught and do.
1. Fill master cylinder untill full. Keep close eye on it everytime you bleed them. Dont let it run dry or you will have to start over again.

2. Have someone get in and pump the pedel untill it is firm.

3. Crack the bleeder screw open and let the pedel go to the floor. Clost the bleeder.

4. Pump the brakes and repeat untill you a a steady stream of fluid out of the lines. It is simple to do just make sure that you keep the master cylinder full of fluid.

On the search thing. Click the search button on the top. You can search through post that way by typing in what you want to look for.

[prostock]

Only thing I can add is if you are doing all 4, start the furthest away from the master and work your way back.

[DartMan360]

Yes forgot to add that..Start with read passenger side. first. Spray a little wd40 pr penternting lube on the at first. Sometimes they are a major pain to lossen.

[bambam]

thanks for the procedure, guys!

Im really excited about all that I am about to learn! Like how to spell Brakes!!!

[last426]

Yeah,
I wish eveyone learned to spell. It's like, hey I got a mopar so they kicked me outta 6th grade! Anyway, I am switching my system over to silicone because it doesn't eat paint and I am going to use a miti-vac to bleed it. When using a vacuum to bleed you do it in reverse, starting with the nearest screw and working towards the farthest. Kim

[Ausydad]

The procedure the guys gave you is a good one. The only thing I was going to add is look at the fluid coming out. If it's really dark or has particles within it, it's contaminated. It will still work for you, but not as well. I would invest in extra fluid and flush the whole system using the procedure they gave you. Then invest in fresh rubber lines as rubber tends to swell with contaminated fluid giving you poor porformance or erratic performance on your brakes. Then bleed them again. Good Luck and Welcome!

[MoJoe]

last 426, I use the Mighty Vac, also. Why would you reverse the order (near to far instead of far to near)?

MoJoe

[65cudajay]

I don't know if anyone knows this but I'm gonna tell anyway. Get a small container of brake fluid and put it near where you are going to bleed. Attach a hose onto the bleeder and put the other end into the container. You can now crack the bleeder and go in the car and pump away, but keep checking the fluid. It won't suck air due to the fact it's in the jar. Start from the closest to the master cylinder to the farthest. Those new one way bleeder screws are a great way also.

[Leigh]

I use 65cudajay's method. This allows inspection of the fluid at the same time. I use a fairly long tight fitting vacuum line so I can kneel, pump the pedal with my hand and look for bubbles in the jar while bleeding. Word of warning, silicone is not always the greatest in all brake systems. If you are runnig an aftermarket system, it doesn't work. I've had two racers borrow my quarts of dot 4 to purge the silicone from their Wilwood systems while at the track.

[ehostler]

I prefer the use of the vacuum bleeder kits or the "one man bleed kit". They both only require one person and are alot quicker than the two person method.

No matter what method you use, you should always start the furthest away from the master and just flush the entire system, not just bleed it.

[BillyBob]

One small thing that I might add is to use a bleeder wrench as it is 6 sided and "usually" will not strip or slip off the bleeder screw. If that's not possible, any 6 point socket/wrench would be preferrred over 12 point.

[last426]

Hey guys, I don't make this stuff up! Here is the sequence according to Miti-vac. You are supposed to start with the wheel closest and work back. http://www.weekendmechanicsclub.com/...re-Mityvac.htm Kim