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  #1  
Old 01-15-2002, 09:19 AM
Dr. Righteous Dr. Righteous is offline
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Biggrin Scored a CHERRY Ramcharger CHEAP, BUT..........

SCORED a '85 RAMCHARGER 318/auto for $2800. NOT BAD! It is in FANTASTIC shape and I dare say if it had fresh paint you wouldn't be able to tell it from a new truck (if it was 1985)
I don't know a whole lot about 4x4s but it looks like it has non unlocking hubs. Not automatic, . If so I would need to install manual unlockable hubs on this truck. What should I look for and how do I tell what the front diff is? Where can I look on the truck for some ID and option information?

Thanks Guys
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  #2  
Old 01-15-2002, 12:17 PM
Jims451 Jims451 is offline
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Try the truck forum or http://ramchargercentral.com
There is a bunch or RamCharger owners there.

The front axle Should be a Dana 44.
The hubs should be automatically locking hubs, you need to go into 2-wheel drive and back up a few feet to unlock them (if they work correctly), but I prefer just changing them to manual locking hubs.

Usually there is a sticker on the inside of the hood that has some information on the drivertain options.
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  #3  
Old 01-15-2002, 02:38 PM
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Mopar_Mudder Mopar_Mudder is offline
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Its an 85 so it should have the CAD (center axle disconect) front axle in it. If you look at the front axle the drivers side long tube should have a hump looking thing in the axle tube with some vacuum lines running to it. That units has a sleeve inside it the splits the axle shaft in half, don't need lock outs if it is working properly.
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  #4  
Old 01-15-2002, 03:11 PM
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Really, why put the get out in the mud hubs on when you've got the stay in the truck and keep dry hubs now.
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Old 01-15-2002, 05:20 PM
Jims451 Jims451 is offline
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My RamCharger is a 1983, and the hubs were shot, they would try locking in 2-wheel drive and make a bunch of clicking noise.

I was not sure the 1985 had the center disconnect. I see Summit sells a cable actuated conversion if you don't want to rely on the vacuum operated unit.
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  #6  
Old 01-15-2002, 05:29 PM
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Mopar_Mudder Mopar_Mudder is offline
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85 was the year of the switch to CAD
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  #7  
Old 01-16-2002, 09:57 AM
Dr. Righteous Dr. Righteous is offline
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Default Crawling around last night

I didn't get home till late and I crawled under the truck with a flashlight in the dark and cold to check out the underside really well and eyeball the xfer case and so forth for leaks. Everything looked GREAT and the only mess I was was grease slung off a but on the U-Joints and from the sliding yoke. Everything else was clean. I noticed a strange looking vacuum bottle setup that had me puzzled. Vacuum operated locking and unlocking hubs?? WOW!
NOW, someone tell me the pros and cons of this type of setup.
Is it as reliable as regular automatic hubs?
I have a Ford 4x4 and gear under that truck is CRAP compared to this RamCharger. The Ford is for sale.
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  #8  
Old 01-16-2002, 10:49 AM
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Mopar_Mudder Mopar_Mudder is offline
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Well I have personally never had a problem with any truck we have had with the CAD axle, and that has been quiet a few of them. I have heard of lots of problems with the automatic hubs on the other hand. If you ever did have problems with the CAD that were too expensive to fix, which you shouldn't, I would just put on manual lock outs and be done with it.
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  #9  
Old 01-16-2002, 11:09 AM
Dr. Righteous Dr. Righteous is offline
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Biggrin HA! automatic hubs huh?

Yeah, I had a '89 Bronco with automatic hubs that just about put me in the poor house! Then I buy this '89 Ford with manual hubs and the engine block cracks!!
But then I got right with God and I got this Ramcharger. Now all is right with with world!!!
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  #10  
Old 01-17-2002, 03:47 AM
Brian Mills Brian Mills is offline
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Default RamCharger

Welcome to the RamCharger crowd! My '85 is black with a gold interior. I always instal the manual hubs on CAD axles, just for a little more economy on long highway trips. I usually leave them locked for daily driving.

The vaccum setup is real good and reliable, there is one Vaccum operated ball valve at the transfer case that can go. It just threads in and out like a bolt. In Canada it is 20 bucks.

My RC is a 360 4bbl with headers, it has an A518 trans from a 90 pick up, OD is not hooked up yet. I also just put in a 21/2" Skyjacker Softride and some 33X12.5X15's. It is a real nice daily.

These trucks are my favorites Dr., so feel free to consider me a resource.
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  #11  
Old 01-17-2002, 09:12 AM
Dr. Righteous Dr. Righteous is offline
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Biggrin Did some cruising and bruising last night!

Got a chance finally to drive it around some. For $2800 I was grinning from ear to ear. I went to a place where the ground was torn up and soft to try it's off road manners. MAN what a surprise! This thing is smooth even in some rough stuff. Getting a new exhaust system put on it today. 2" duals with a crossover tube and Thrush turbos. Quiet enough for a stocker 318 2bbl. It is a heavy truck so I do miss the Umph of a bigger engine. I think a 360 swap is in its future, but the 318 runs great! How tough is the swap to a 518 OD auto tranny? That would be the tranny for the bigger 360 engine.
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  #12  
Old 01-18-2002, 05:37 AM
Brian Mills Brian Mills is offline
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Default 518 tranny

The swap itself is easy enough, it fits right in the same as the 727. The linkage is the same.

The kicker is that the trans is longer, I stripped a 90 reg cab, so I had the 241 transfer case with it and all the wiring. The transfer case breather tube is longer and the drive shaft has to be shortened.

Now here is the tough part, the speedometer is electric and so is the OD operation. I put the mechanical speedo drive on, it bolted right up, but the speedo did not work. I am going to swap in the entire wiring harness and steering column complete with computers. Then I will use the Mopar ignition update package to defeat the fuel injection part. I even kept the firewall out of the 90 in case I need it, so the main wiring conecter will fit properly.

You can hook the OD up to a manual switch if you want, you just need the wiring connector from the original wiring harness. however you lose the speedo, and you must manually switch OD off for any passing gear operation.

I have the 90 318, and I picked up a RamCharger fuel injection gas tank, so I might do a complete update to the newer drive. Hard to part with the 360 though.

You are right, they are a blast to drive! When I installed the Skyjacker lift, I put on an old set of 35X12.5 Mud Terrains for 10 days, just for kicks. This was a real fun set up even though the lift wasn't enough and they started to rub right away.
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  #13  
Old 01-18-2002, 09:42 AM
Dr. Righteous Dr. Righteous is offline
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Exclamation Sweet Silence.....but then......

Picked the truck up from the exhaust shop and it sounds GREAT! It is totally quiet with only a hint of throaty exhaust when I put my foot into it. It also run a lot better with the new exhaust. Now that the exhaust is quiet I can hear other noises. At 65 MPH there is a loud hum coming from somewhere. You know, that NAAaannnngggg NAAannnngggg NAAannnnngggg noise. The tires are 31" BF GoodRich AT and the tread is not agressive. It seems to be a U-joint or bearing making the noise.
Here again I am not much of a 4x4 guy. I am not use to driving a Dodge 4x4 and the typical noises it makes. But I know that this particular noise isn't normal.
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  #14  
Old 01-20-2002, 12:52 AM
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Hey Dr I recently bought an 85 Ramcharger also,cheap too,67K on it for $1200!!!Although it has hail damage on the hood only but no rust anywhere and good paint, this kid wanders in my shop apparently in need of $,I gave exactly what He was asking anyhow 85s all have the cad,it works well and you can shift on the fly from 2H to 4H below 35mph,I wouldnt change the hubs unless your having a prob.Mines Black with red pinstripes and maroon interior,360 4 bll(quadrajet) auto,I added headers and love it.Its geared with 3.23s and had 31/10.50/15s so my cruise rpm at 75 is 2950rpm,not to bad...............PRO........
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  #15  
Old 01-21-2002, 10:29 AM
Dr. Righteous Dr. Righteous is offline
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Smile Hey PRO!

MY '85 Ramcharger buddy! The 318 in mine seems solid enough. I removed the valve covers to peak inside and it is shiny clean. I did a tune up this weekend because the way this thing perform so sluggishly. New plugs, wires, cap, rotor, set timing to fact spec, checked PCV, ect.
This 318 has a Holley 2bbl carb. I know nothing about those carbs but it seems to be working ok. The only real problem I can complain about is that this thing is just about USELESS until it warms up. The heat riser seems to be working and the choke works correctly. But this thing will not even climb the hill to get out of my drive way until it gets up to tempature. It seems to be running a bit rich and doesn't seem to use any oil (no blue smoke ever)
Anothing thing that is apparent is that a 318 just isn't enough engine for a vehicle this heavy! A swap to a 360 is diffinately in the future. But on the warmup problem, do you have any ideas?
I was thinking that MAYBE the crossover in the intake is clogged and there is too much backpressure. At idle the vacuum reads 21 inches. The only thing I didn't do is a compression check because I ran out of time this weekend.
Part of the lack of power problem was the fuel pump. I changed that out Sunday, and went for a 'foot to the floor' run. There was a definate improvement. But still, on a COLD engine, this thing will hardly move!
Will a swap to a 4bbl carb (would like a thermoquad) and intake be worth while?

Any ideas??
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