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#1
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sway bar interference w/calipers on a body
I have a 72 Duster 340 that has the disks setup from a 73 on it. I have read about the sway bar interfering with the calipers, which it does on hard turns. I read that it is safe to swap the spindles to change the calipers to the backside, and thus clearing the end links on the sway bar. Does this change the steering geometry at all? I read that it doesnt in a performance book somewhere, but I'm not always inclined to believe what I read till I've discussed it with others that have done the same.
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#2
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I'm not going to say with any certainty. My belief would be that the spindle change won't change your alignment, but gives pause to some braking efficiency concerns. I mean, doesn't the caliper have to work harder to try to stop the vehicle from the back of the spindle instead of in front of it? Like trying to stop a runaway train by grabbing the caboose instead of blocking the engine, oversimplified. Just my first thought on the subject.
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#3
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I accidentily mounted the spindles on the wrong sides once and found out when I put the calipers on. The steering geometry does not change, but the brake hose was not long enough and you had to route it through the shock area. that's when i realized i had them on backwards. I have seen new cars with calipers mounted on the back from the factory, so i don't think that it makes a difference how you mount them. However, I could be wrong. Not the first time and certainly not the last time.
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#4
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It is pretty common to mount them rear facing when doing the conversion.
As said above, you need the lengthened brake hoses to make it work. There is a stock length version to one of the Mopar cars that you can use, I just can't remember off the top of my head what car. Anyone?? |
#5
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I think this is the link that started me down the rear caliper mount path.
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Shop/3978/disk.html |
#6
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It doesn't make any difference where the calipers are mounted. Same forces are involved.
GOD BLESS AMERICA!! |
#7
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Thanks for the responses.
Thanks for the responses guys, I appreciate the help.
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#8
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I also have a 72 Duster 340 with the large bolt pattern conversion. To solve the problem of moving the calipers from back to front, change to the 73-76 A-body k-member the sway bar attachments are located in board to clear the calipers. The sway bar also mounts through the K-frame for a cleaner look and less chance of damage.
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#9
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Definitive information
A 15 inch long #3 hose with one 90 degree end and one straight end seems to work the best. Goodridge makes an excellent hose assembly that is DOT rated and reasonably priced.
Goodridge part number for this hose is D390315. You will need a 1/8 NPT to #3 JIC fitting at the caliper, and then a #3 Flare to #3JIC where the attachment to the existing hardline is. These are also available from Goodridge. Or you can opt for the banjo style bolt as I did to attach the hose to the caliper..a little cleaner but about $5.00 more money. All of these parts can be sourced from myself as I am a long time Goodridge WD or Oil Filter Service Co. in Portland Oregon if you cannot find a local source. Very simple deal, mine is assembled that way no problem with steering or braking ability. Don |
#10
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The knuckles are symetrical about all points of concern which are the upper ball joint mount, lower ball joint mounts and spindle centerline. Swapping the knuckles from side to side, thus putting the caliper mounts to the rear, will not change wheel alignment or steering geometry.
As far as the rear mounted caliper braking efficiency is concerned, I don't believe it makes a considerable difference. Many late model cars, including Corvettes, have rear mounted calipers. Not to mention that many cars from the Mopar factory came out with rear mounted calipers including 70-72 4 piston A-Bodies, also F, M, and J bodies. |
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