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  #1  
Old 02-04-2002, 10:19 PM
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Kilrbee1 Kilrbee1 is offline
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Question Help--exhaust is making me stink!!!

I have a 440 with performer rpm intake, eldebrock 750, cam is unknown but idle is slightly rough. stock coil, timing is @10btdc, headers. When the 69 R/T is at idle the exhaust smells really rich. Enough to make the eyes hurt and clothes stink quickly if standing around it. I tried leaning the idle mixture down but not much help. Some black/blue smoke at cold startup but clears up soon. Tonight I noticed that a couple of the header tubes on each side glowed. The car runs great especially at higher rpms. Carb is not to old and I believe the float levels are ok. Why only a couple of tubes glowing (at at the begining) on each side? Still too rich or lean? Do I need the square back alternator to go with the electronic ign. and voltage reg.. Any help or advice please.
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Old 02-04-2002, 10:38 PM
dewme5 dewme5 is offline
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usually, red headders is lean, or your timing is off enough that the the fuel is burning in the headder, and not the chamber. which would make it run rough. I would use another timing gun to double check the timing.

how long has the problem been going on, and has the carb been tuned for this engine? if it's way rich at idle, then you are going to need to change some needles and jets. Pick up a edelbrock or carter strip kit for about $30, and get to tuning!
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Old 02-04-2002, 11:46 PM
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The carb is as it came out the box. Its been like this as long as I had it. It actually runs strong, I meant by the rough idle that it was cammed up pretty good but how much I dont know. I was told it was to match the intake and carb. I didnt build the motor so I don't know. It has a slight hesitant at initial throttle but very responsive above 1500 rpm. It will idle at 800 but just a little lumpy. I will check out Edelbrocks web site for tuning. Someone else mentioned that I needed to change the alternator from the 69 to the later 70-up square back to give the right voltage for spark. Anyone had to do this? I thought the Electronic kits didnt need to. I do have the elect volt reg instead of the points one so could that be a problem for hot enough spark for clean burning of fuel?
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Old 02-05-2002, 01:09 AM
dewme5 dewme5 is offline
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with the different alternators, you are going to get more amperage, but with either one, you should have enough power to light the spark sufficiently, especially at idle. Ballast resistor is going to cut that power way down at idle no matter what alt. you use anyway.

I would really look into the timing issue. the air/fuel mix is burning in the headers if it's turning the headders red. that would also help account for it smelling so rich coming out of the back end too.
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Old 02-09-2002, 08:11 PM
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Thanks for the advice. I adjusted the timing by sound and checked by the gun. I advanced until it started running rough and backed off a couple of times and found the best idle for it. I assumed the cam timing was set up right but the gun shows it sitting about 25btc. I also reset the idle mixture by the eldebrock booklet. The bright cherry glow went away at idle and only gets a dull glow now when running it up 2-3000 rpms. This might be normal I was told??? At 800 rpm I pull 7 inches of manifold vacuum. At 2000rpm its at 17. In trying to read the booklet it say that the vacuum should drop at higher load/rpm. Seems to run steady within .5in at idle and at higher levels. Plugging the pcv tube made no difference. I havent tried running it on the road yet under load but only in driveway. Am I misreading something here? The exhaust still reeks and Im going to look at the meter rod spring kit next but any other info on the vacuum or other would be helpfull. Thanks
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Old 02-09-2002, 08:53 PM
jelsr jelsr is offline
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It's possible that your damper has slipped. Try using your vacuum guage to time it for reference. Advance till you start getting dips in the reading and then retard till the needle steadies. That should get you real close, then check your marks. You'll probably be too fast but nowhere near the 25 degrees you mentioned. Like dewme5, sounds slow to me. But then, I was wrong once years ago.
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Old 02-09-2002, 09:51 PM
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I tried it out and got it to 12in but the timing mark went to almost 55btc so back down to 7in I set with 25. Also going from the blue (lighest) to the silver (high) on the step-up springs made no difference on the idle exhaust that I could tell. Any other suggestions?
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Old 02-09-2002, 11:44 PM
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Did you check your spark plugs? That is a for sure way to tell your running rich.
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Old 02-10-2002, 01:19 AM
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Had to replace a set. They were fouled out so bad it wouldn't hardly crank. I decided to tear down the carb. and check things out. Will post what I find if anything. I'm still a little confused on the manifold vacuum as to how its supposed to react with increased rpm.
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  #10  
Old 02-10-2002, 01:32 AM
jelsr jelsr is offline
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You need to check the damper, no way are you going to idle at 55 deg. My engine (see below) is only 38 degrees at full tilt. Remove the pulley and turn till the keyway of the damper is straight down. Put a chalk mark on the outer face in line with the keyway. Measure to your timing mark on the damper and compare to another damper. Easier to do this from underneath. Sure sounds like the ring has moved. How did it sound at 12 in.? Did the headers turn red at all?
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  #11  
Old 02-10-2002, 10:09 PM
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I tore down the carb. and cleaned it out good and put in all new gaskets. Still no improvements. As before, I can completely close the idle screws and it still runs but not smooth. I'm not sure where its drawing extra fuel from but the bottom of the intake was pretty wet when I took it off. I checked the damper mark by running the piston to top of #1cyl. using a wire in the spark plug hole to verify it was at top and the mark is pretty close as far as this way will check. It was easier than removing the crank bolt. I cant seem to get the glowing back now either way I time it. When I ran the rpm up with vacuum at 12in and time mark almost out of sight it would start to break up at 2ooo so I adjusted till ran smooth between 2-3000 rpm and at idle it was at about 20btc. I pulled two plugs and they were black and moist. Compression check was 90-93 psi. I must be washing out the cyls. which would explain the light blue smoke at idle, stinking, and hopefully the low compression check. The gage hose threaded end even got wet residue on it. It doesn't smoke while driving and only at idle its barely visable (blue and black). Pipe ends are sooty. Soooo-- it seems like I have a new carb. I can't do much with to lean out the idle. Originally this was on my stock 383 Bee and did same thing. Does the Holly work a little better with this and do they work ok with the RPM manifold? I'm at a loss for options other than to live with what I got. Is the manifold vacuum supposed to drop as rpms increase because mine doesnt if it is? I can't explain the timing either but it runs ok.
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Old 03-11-2002, 09:15 PM
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A little follow up and thanks for everyones responce. I changed out the metering rods to run 4% leaner. Plugs have good color and burn pretty clean after checking after a drive. I reset timing to 12 btc but with the vacuum advance hose on full manifold vacuum instead of ported. Seems to run better this way. I can't explain the previous mentioned high advance reading and it still running unless the stickon timing tape is off but I did have to replace the oil pump/dist. drive gear as it was pretty worn. After adding 104 oct. boost to the gas it ran much better without the excessive pinging and even helped with gas milage. Compression readings are 135psi now. Idle exhaust is still stinking but I'll have to live with it untill I try a Holley and see if it helps. Other people wrote and said they had similar strong exhaust smell with their eldebrocks. Anyway thanks to all.
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  #13  
Old 03-12-2002, 12:16 AM
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As far as I can find, the Carter/Edelbrocks are fixed in their idle metering. If It is wrong, you bought the wrong carb! That is straight out of the Carter rebuild book I have. My screws do nothing either. It says try to run as much initial spark as you can to help this. Looking at the Edelbrock web site, they have a few models of 600, one is 4% richer than the other for Performance applications. I have a 9000 series EGR (9636) carb, and it stinks too! I wonder if the air bleeds can be opened up to reduce the signal to the idle fuel mixture?
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Old 03-12-2002, 09:24 PM
6pakman 6pakman is offline
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just to throw in a little xtra caution, be sure to check your oil for any gas smell, if its in there,CHANGE THAT OIL PRONTO!!!! if you dont, that thin oil will mess up your bearings then your gonna need to change them & your cam bearings. dont wait, check it now.
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