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#1
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I am looking to move up a class in circle racing. This class would be mostly stock. I have a 73 Duster with a /6. I have numerous big blocks to put in it. Do the Schumacher mounts provide for a direct big-block drop in. I would probably have to use iron manifolds. I can cut the hood for carb clearence. Also, do I need a wild torsion bar to make it handle? I would be racing against mostly Novas and Monte Carlos. (No Firechickens or Camaros)
Also, will the stock rear end work? Any tips would be greatly appreciated!!!! |
#2
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Don't circle track with a big block!
It's not horsepower, it's handling. A big block will kill ya. I'll give you all the advise you want. Just ask |
#3
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I know about the weight problems with the big block... I race one now. There are guys running them in open wheel modifieds (2500# and I need to be 3200#) And are CLEANING the GM racers. The 360's seem spendy to build... compared to a 400.
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#4
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don't do the 360, do the 340 and really give the GM guys fits!!. Aslong as you can add weight, get rid of the big block and add weight where you need it. The 340 will turm RPM. It's a hell of a motor and will kick ass with the right combo, which I'm sure you can get pointers from this web site.
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#5
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I'd love to run a 340! I'm not sure they are ez to get here in MN. Is their a hybrid crank/rod/piston combo to make one out of a 318 or 360?
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#6
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340 block should be easy to find, hit the junk yards, I bet they have one waiting to be a boat anchor. What I'm saying is blocks are cheap. My junk yard gives me all the dodge stuff I want cuz they can't get rid of it. They end up throwing it away and get pennies for it. Just don't go in there gung ho to get one. Let them know it's for racing and they may be on your side. Again, the junk yard I go to gives me rearends, blocks, lets me look for the right heads, etc. Don't know about making one from a 318 or 360, crank and rods are the same, but must be bigger bore.
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#7
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A 360 will beat a similarily prepped 340 any given day, if the car weight is the same. The 360 has a longer stroke than the 340, but a little smaller bore, 4.00 vs. 4.04". Overboring a 360 to .040" makes basically a stroked 340. The heads and all the other 'power parts' are the same, so starting with a 360 will give you a broader torque curve, more horsepower, more peak torque and all at lower rpm than with a similar 340. The 360 core is also a lot cheaper than a 340, parts are about the same price. The 360 has a cast crank while the early 340's used a forged crank. The 318 has the same stroke as the 340, but a smaller 3.91" bore. The main bearing sizes in the 273/318/340 and 360 are different, so the cranks are not straight iterchangeable. The 383/400 engines also fit the Duster somehow, but you have to find the right exhaust manifolds for this swap. Those are usually pretty restrictive, and since the 383/400 are also short stroke engines, and because of that tend to like a lot of rpm, the results may not be too good. I would choose the 360.
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#8
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I don't know too much about circle track motors, but I had some friend's (Doug and Jerry Niegh Eldridge Iowa) that ran a mopar competively about (ouch) 9 years ago. They ran a 360 block (easy to find) with 340 rods (harder to find but will never break (according to them)) with some sort of trick SHOVROLET piston. It made for a motor that was 372 CU and would really crank some RPM's. They switched to 400 Chevies when the SB mopar couldnt run on alcohol (something about the length of the mechanical fuel pump arm and RPM). That's all I know.
P.S. I have NEVER EVER seen a 340 (or a 440 for that matter) in a junkyard in the midwest. They really are hard to find here. I have the original motor out of my Dart Sport, a 8.5:1 motor that blew a head gasket that I was thinking about selling. I thought that I could get between $500 and $700 for it and a set of "X" casting heads. if I can't get this much, I will hold on to them. [This message has been edited by The Dartman (edited October 01, 1999).] |
#9
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I've been running a 360 on a 3/8 &1/2 mile dirt track for the last four years. I have to tell you that nothing to compare to the torque or power to come off the corner. The 360 is probably one of the easiest engine to get power for dollar I have ever seen. With the long stroke it has a jump the is awesome. I have tried 340's and even a 400 once and still think that nothing can compare to the 360! The best advice I could give anyone tho is to get your chassis low square and balanced.
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#10
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When you use the 360 do you do the trick with running a breather up high and a tube to the pan out of the valve cover? It says to in the speed secrets book. I have raced /6 318 and 400 with no oiling system problems. I ran a 400 in a C body this year and had good luck. My observation with the big bore motor is 1. they NEVER get hot. 2.You can't float the valves (at least in 2nd gear w/ stock springs) 3. No tech inspector knows what it is.... I've been asked if it is an Olds or a Pontiac in the inspection area. I've heard the Magnum heads are a good 360 head?
The problem here boys, is I just dumped my 360 in favor of another bigblock. I may be forced to get another one though. If I run pure stock class I'll have to have a 360. If I run Outlaw Street Stock on the BIG 1/2 mile I can run as big as I can bore. Some guys run 468 Chebbys in a malibu. |
#11
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Your right about the tech guys, they don't know what to do when it comes to a dodge product. I've been told the stock adjustable rocker arms are illegal!! and shaft rockers!! go figure. I hate to repeat myself but junk yards give this stuff away. If you got your mind set on a 360 then do the 360. it's not all horsepower it's the right combo and handling.
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#12
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FastEddie:
9dodge is right on. It is the combination that counts. The tire rules and track conditions play just as important a role in engine selection as anything else. Don't overlook the ability of your combination to spin up quickly. Lighter rotating assemblies are more responsive and usually better. You should get different torsion bars for the front, regardless of which engine you choose. I would look for a late V-8 Duster K-member to get disc brakes and the 4-1/2" bolt pattern. Good Luck. |
#13
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If you want 340 cubes, but can't find a block, line bore a 318 and sleeve it. 9dodge is right, 273,318 and 340 have smaller main bearings. Smaller circle equals less speed at bearing surface, therefore main bearings are subject to less stress and heat at high rpm. If you need a forged crank you can get a cheap one from an early 318 truck motor, around 1968. They are not as good as the 340 one, but they are better than cast. Late model 313 are rumoured to have the same crank, read it in one of the posts here, look around.
Good Luck, Brian |
#14
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I raced a 69 superbee 383 and 400 on a 3/8 mile dirt track several years ago
It was a middle of the pack car. The big block gave weight distribution problems It had plenty of power but the corners were the bigbocks downfall. If you are considering a smallblock I have a 69 340 that still runs that i would sell or trade I live near St Cloud MN Email bsbn@webtv.net |
#15
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I raced a 69 superbee 383 and 400 on a
3/8 mile dirt track several years ago It was a middle of the pack car. The big block gave weight distribution problems It had plenty of power but the corners were the bigbocks downfall. If you are considering a smallblock I have a 69 340 that still runs that i would sell or trade I live near St Cloud MN Email bsbn@webtv.net |
#16
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I am interested in the 340. I need to see how rules shake out here in a few weeks. I made some calls and they aren't sure what they are going to do with rules.
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