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#1
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does anyone know of an easy way to adjust rocker arms on an rb motor. i have a mechanical cam and harland sharpe rocker arms.
thanks in advance bill |
#2
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I don't know of a "easy" way,but this is how I do it...You need a timing tape on the balancer so that you can read when you turn the crank 180 degrees.Then have the engine at TDC with #1 cyl firing(the cam lobe will be at the bottom and the valve closed) and adjust 2&7 Intake 4&8 exhaust Rotate the crank 180 degrees,adjust 1&8 intake 3&6 exhaust.Rotate 180 again, adjust 3&4 intake 5&7 exhaust.Rotate 180 again adjust 5&6 intake,1&2 exhaust.I have never had a problem doing it this way,and it is very accurate.
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#3
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Bill, I do things a little differently than Christopher. I watch the valves and adjust the intake valve on each cylinder just as the exhaust valve begins opening. I adjust each exhaust valve just as the intake valve starts closing. Like Christopher, I have never had any problems. This method is suggested by several cam companies to avoid catching the overlap area or the take up ramps.
Adjusting valves is a little bit different with almost every tuner. It depends on your touch or feel for the feeler guage. My advise is to use a method and then randomly check the rockers to make sure that you are getting them right. We have seen as much as 0.1 of a second at the strip with different tuners adjusting. valves. |
#4
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Put hydraulic lifers in -- then ya don't hafta adjust 'em!! <smile> Jus kiddin...
Actually, when I built my 64 Ply 383 for NHRA E/SA I had to use those "curved" shims between the rocker shaft and supports. I milled the heads and put those shims in -- the tech boys initially thought it illegal until I explained that to blueprint the heads ya had to put shims in so you wouldn't colapse the lifters. Sheeeesh. . .chevy guys just dont understand. Oooops off the topic sorry. JC |
#5
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I have a related question: When adjusting my Harland Sharp rockers per direction on my 360 Super Commando crate motor (tighten to zero lash, then 1/2 turn more), the valves are forced open. If I try 1/2 turn out from zero instead, all seems great. Do these hydraulic lifters sit compressed when the motor is off? Or is something wrong?
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#6
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I use the 340kings method. With a remote starter button this is very clear, just do one valve at a time from front to rear. You can even run the engine a little before changing to other cylinder bank to keep the engine temp even.
If the hydraulic lifters are filled with oil, they won't collapse immediately. The valves will open. Chevy guys turn the pushrods with fingers while tightening and when it becomes snug they turn a half revolution more. Should work in mopars too. Stock racers tend to adjust the preload to zero to gain some upper rpm, I have done this in a dyno with a hydraulic cam and it helped. But it's a 'race only' thing with regular hydraulic lifters. |
#7
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the valves are forced open a small amount but they will bleed down in no time at all. always follow the manufactures recommendation untill you get more experienced. than you can do what works for you
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#8
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G'day d4a4r0t,
You're probably overloaded with methods by now but .... The way I learned to do any engine (except maybe odd numbered cylinder ones) is to write down half the firing order on one line and the other half below it. For example our (V8) engines look like this: 1 8 4 3 6 5 7 2 As you bring #1 piston up to TDC you'll notice the valves on #6 just start to rock (one coming up, other going down). Stop engine there and adjust both #1 intake and #1 exhaust valves. Now turn motor again (I use a remote starter button) till #5's valves just rock and adjust both inlet and exhaust valves on #8 and so on. Being the lazy type I find this requires the very least amount of turning the engine over. Hoo roo, Jim Guckert |
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