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Affordable Good flowing heads
Ok, well, Unfortunitlly I've come to the conclusion that I don't shit money. Eddie Heads are way too much for price range. But I can find GREAT deals ( under $200 ) on 906 heads nearlly all the time. In great or new shape too ! Only prob is, I figure is that these are older cast iron heads and will force me to go no higher than 9.5 cr if i want to only be using 92-93 octance.
Supposedly aluminum heads allow you to boost up comp ratios to 1 full point while using same octance? Is it worth it to go all out bottom end ( everything forged, molley rings, windage tray turned balance crank ) and have stock or just ported ( not polished, i don't wanna kill bottom end torque ) 906 heads, with Crane Roller valvetrain and a hughes cam, 260 duration at .5 lift OR, is it worth to wait and save for Mopar, Indy, or Eddie heads that will cost me a grand for just heads? Have any of you ever heard of 906 or 915 heads that can flow as good or close to the newer heads? Are there any after market companies kinda like Air flow reasearch that make great flowing heads for cheap ? ( too bad they only make Shibby heads ) I figure I'll just go all out on everything besides the actual head, valve train I won't go soft on at all. But down the road swap a better pair on. But I've never done anything like this, is it worth the wait? Or is there a good reason why I should'nt just go with 906 heads for the time being? ( Hoping for 500-550hp, n/a, so they will probably need a porting job which I think after some practice and homework I'll do myself, if not already done to the heads I buy ) I'll call my local machine shop to see if and for how much they do bowl jobs and blending for, as well as valve guides. |
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Hmm. You can make a good runner using ported iron heads. I would invest on the short block because when everyting is in order there the other parts are easier to upgrade. So, a good crank (doesn't have to be forged if you do not intend to go well over 500 hp), preferably aftermarket rods (Properly prepping and balancing the old rods will take you pretty close to the price of new rods), forged lightweight pistons with valve reliefs, moly rings and quality machine work & prep. I would shoot for zero deck height short block for further upgrades. As far as the heads go, they are the final key for power. With good heads you will make power over a bigger rpm scale and a lot more of it. For example, if using std heads you may make 500 hp at 6000 rpm, but with good aftermarket heads and everything else remaining the same you may make the same amount already at 4500 rpm while still making good power at above 6000 where the stockers capability may end. I would think at least twice before putting money in to old stock heads. To make them work among the power level you aim at you have to install bigger valves, perform at least pocket porting, new guides, good valve job, room for vavle springs, retainers, locks milling etc. etc. After all this you will have heads that may be close to competitive with out of the box Edelbrocks, but not quite. Figure the cost of all this work and think wether your 30+ year old castings are going to crack today or tomorrow; is it really worth putting any money in to them. On my opinion it isn't. If you want to drive the car before you can afford proper heads, put ina stock cam and stock heads and drive. Then when you get the money together, switch to a good cam & heads. And consider that you also need some drivetrain work (money) for parts that will support your 500+ hp engine.
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