I need a good recipe for a MEAN 360 on a budget!!

[APSYCHOTIC]

Hello,
Name is Norm, I have an old 84 shortbed 2wd Dodge w/a 318, I am going to switch over to a 360 soon, I have never built a motor before and i'm gonna do it this time myself (with the exception of machining). I want to build a motor that will at least hit the 300hp. mark. But, I still want drivability, dependability, and enough vacum to work the brakes. something that will work on the street and the strip. emissions is not a factor in my area. My budget allows about $1,000-$1,200 to work with.
Here's my plan....
I already have an Edelbrock Performer Intake, Edelbrock 600cfm Carb to start. I was planning on ordering an Engine Rebuild kit from Summit Racing, but first, I need to get the engine.
I have several questions on this swap that remain unanswered.. here goes..

What year 360 should I look for? Did any of them come with factory 202 heads?

How much should I have it bored over?

Should I have the heads shaved? How much?

What size cam should I go with?

I'll be running a 727, Will I need a new torque converter/flex plate?

Any info is appreciated, and thanks in advance!!!!!!!!! Norm

[JVMopar]

Your better off getting a crate motor. To build it with the propper machine work you'll have to spend about $700-800. I'm building a motor right now and just the block and rod work it's gonna cost $800. The pistons that I'm running cost $550 so your over your budget already and that doesn't include rings gaskets etc. If I remember right the only 2.02 heads came on 340's. I'd go with '88 or '87 swirl port heads. I used a resto 340 cam. Made great torque and power. You just need to get the compression up. So 9:1 is what you wanna shoot for.

Just my .02

[rumblefish360]

In addition to JVMopar;

A set of headers!! They'll put you up and over the 300 hp mark.
You'll need a set of 2.02 valves for the 360 heads as they only came with 1.88's on the intake sude.
A set of Keith Black pistons will cost a lot less than $550.
Overbore it only if it's needed.
Shave the head only if needed or at least as possible. Just make it flat. If needed.
I also agree with the resto cam. The replacement 340 cam is also nice. Tighter center line.
I'm not sure, but you might be able to get away with just a balancer wieght package. (TRANNY GUYS STEP UP.)
You can allways purchase the correct parts from MoPar. (Converter and flex plate.)

I just wanna make a mention that Edelbrock or Carter dosn't make a 650. There a 600 or 625 from Carter.
Then they step up to a 750.

[Swinger321]

If you wanna make 300hp and drive this thing, just make it easy on yourself and go to your local junkyard and look for a 89-91 Dodge Van OR truck with a 5.9L. Then toss on some headers, a performer RPM intake and a Holley 650 DP, get a new coil like a msd blaster, or a Accel Super Coil, a new set of wires, and a Orange ECU. If the engine is still good from the yard these bolt ons should put you around 310-320 at the crank hp. Then save up for a little while and go to your local dodge dealer and order a replacement Magnum 380 cam and springs. You can most likely reuse the Hyd. Roller lifters, and this engine will be fine on vacuum because of the Roller lifters. It will idle well at 850 and should pull pretty hard. That is till you decide you like it so much you want more and get yourself a 4.00" stroker crank and have the proper machine work done, then OMG.

Thats what I would do with $1000-$1500.

Saw a 91 5.9L at a yard here locally for $750 complete, pulled ready to go.

$750-engine
$160-performer rpm SBChyr
$100-Heddman headers
$30-Orange ECU
$25-coil
$25-accel 8mm wires

$1090 with some change to play with. Definetley check into the mileage though. Might need rings and a new oil pump.


Swinger321

[APSYCHOTIC]

My question is: Isn't the 91 5.9 fuel injected? if so, what all will i have to do to change it over to my intake and carb? What about all the smog junk? are the heads and block the same as the standard 360? and finally, will this engine bolt right up to my 727/flexplate etc? I like your "RECIPE", sounds like a plan for me, I just hope it'll all go together under the hood, our local junkyard has a '91 5.9L (44,000!!) miles!! out and ready for $550.00!

[c318cuin]

Well I have read in Mopar Muscle that the so called smog junk can be used to get you a little more advance and can(if setup correctly) help gain more Hp. I have also heard similar things on TNN's various shows on the Weekend. So I am not the biggest fan of the emmissions crap but I also know that timing advance can buy you "free" hp and allow you to run better on todays dog Pi$$ called gas.

[PlumCrazyChris]

You will need to get the flexplate and torque converter off of a 360. The 360 is externally balanced and the 318, 340 and 273 are all internally balanced, meaning that the flexplate and torque converter are neutrally balanced for these engines. The 360 torque converter will have counterweights attached to it and its flexplate is asymetrical.

I know you can also get a remanufactured 360 from Autozone of all places. I think it was $799 last summer when I saw the price. Those come with fresh valve jobs and 1.92" intake valves. Thats not a bad place to start.

Call around to local machine shops, sometimes folks just never pick up the engines they bring in for work. You might get a real steal.

good luck

[Swinger321]

Yes the 89-91 360 is just the same as the old except for some great upgrades.

You better jump on that 44,000 mile 91 5.9L, I have seen people pay nearly that much for the heads alone.

Let me let you in a great bit of info.

The 89-91 5.9L have what mopar peoples refer to as "308" casting heads, and from what I have heard flow much better than the old "J" and "x" heads when ported or just stock vs. stock. Another plus of this later style engine is, in the lifter galley. These late model engines came from the factory with Hydraulic Roller Cams and lifters. If you have read anything about these "new technology" cams you will know that they can engineer more aggressive cam lobes into a roller than a typical hyd. or solid mechanical cam. What this means is.....you can run a decently wild cam and still be able to idle and pull vacuum good enough for just about any accessory.

About your question on the intake bolting up. NO WORRY'S!!!! Any intake will bolt up regardless of being fuel injected previously. Not like Shebby's Vortec if thats what you were afraid of. Headers, intake, everything external virtually the same as old style.

You will need a 360 torque convertor as previously mentioned. Also you will need to get the complete engine, with harmonic balancer and all, because (like previously mentioned) 360's are the only chrylser SB's that are Externally balanced. I am not sure about the flex plate but I would go with the original if available.

You will not be disappointed, and when you are ready to step up, make sure you upgrade your valvesprings to your cam. I had to learn the hard way, that stock springs can't handle .513 lift on the intake side and .528 on the exhaust. Should have known though stock lift was rated at somewheres around .350 or something.

Oh and get it fast, $550 is mega cheap for a engine with that low of miles.

Good Shebby and mustwang hunting.

Swinger321

[JVMopar]

I think that's a good way to go also. You won't get the compression you want though. Unless you have the heads milled. ALWAYS get the recommended valve springs with the cam. Not only because of coil bind but with the added lift you could run into valve float at lower RPM's. A motor that will only rev to 3k because the valves float is really sad. You can get a weighted flex plate, which allows you to use the stock 318 converter.

I'd personally put a new oil pump, and timing chain in it just to be safe.