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#1
02-27-2002, 07:31 PM
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new 383
a friend of mine has a 1964 383(unassembled) in his garage he said i can have. most of the stock parts are there. he had the block hot tanked and magna fluxed and the guy said he had a good block. it does have a spun main bearing. how much money would it take to get it to stock and very reliable shape? what can you tell me about this stock motor, horse power, etc.? i want it streetable and a good mpg. i'm not in a hurry to get it done, it's just a slow project. it will be going into my daily driver 85 ram 150 /6 3speed w/ od. i'll find a 727 oneday. would my rearend be usable since this will not be a high performance motor? i know these are general questions but i no little on big blocks. forgive me i'm a slant sixer.
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#2
02-27-2002, 07:48 PM
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wolverine, welcome abosrd.
The stock rearend will explode under a stock 383. You more than likely have the small 7 1/4 rear. An 8 1/4 would be so bad if rebuilt. A good mpg/power 383 would be a stock rebuild, although some comp ratio's are low, I would say a 9.0-1 ratio would be fine. Use with a resto HP cam and well done rebuilt heads. Headers for extra umph. 600 cfm carb.
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#3
02-27-2002, 07:58 PM
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i have the 8 1/4 rearend. i figured i would need to go with an 8 3/4. what about gear? 3.23, 3.55, lower or higher? i think it has the 516 heads. if i remember right. think $3,000 would get it done? he has the 4bbl with it, carter afb.
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#4
02-27-2002, 08:49 PM
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The 8 3/4 would be MUCHO better. But, if the wallet is thin, a new sure grip is in order. Just don't flog the rear and never give it a second thought. If its a daily driver and not a beat on / street stripper, you'll be fine.
It'll take decent power. If your going with the resto HP (road runner) cam, i would say for mileage, use 3.23's and a 26" or so tire. 3.55's should be used with a 26" tire min. for good mileage/power/speed. Recomendation taken from a freinds 70 Road runner. He had both gear sets in there. Good mileage in a big block is not the same as a small block.../6...4 banger... $3000? Sure, do your homework on it and make a plan. THEN STICK TO IT. Or it will cost more and more and more.... Just shop around. Do what you can to keep it down. DONT SKIMP!
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#6
02-27-2002, 10:22 PM
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my tires are 275/60-15. i want the motor to be as tough as the \6. thanks for the input so far. i'll be digging through archives and such and asking you guys many more questions over time. thanks.
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#7
02-28-2002, 01:47 AM
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The 516 heads are closed chamber heads with smaller valves. They will give you a higher compression than the HP 906's. You can get a rebuild kit from PAW for pretty cheap and it just is good insurance to beef up some of your basic parts. ie oil pump, double roller chain timing chain, valve springs, water pump. A basic rebuild should get you at least 175 rear wheel horse power. Which is good for just tooling around. Decent cam pistons and intake will easily get you goin and it is not that much more in the long run.
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#8
02-28-2002, 01:56 AM
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I would think...
that you would get better tork with 516s, but they don't have hardened seats. If you need a rebuild put the 1.74 exhaust valves in them. $3000 is quite a big budget, no prob. Maybe even look at the Comp XE262 cam. Should make more tork than stock RR cam.
If the manifold is a dual plane, I think you could cut an in off the top of the plenum to make some more top end if you like...
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#9
02-28-2002, 02:40 AM
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6 and a half dozen
Everyone has a different idea about performance, and as times change, new theorys are given wieght.
On the heads as an example, the intake is still a 2.08"(same as all other mopar BB heads) and the exhaust is 1.60" (which was used in BB heads up until 67. Even in 67 only the 440 magnum had the bigger exhaust valves). Early 383's and 440's made lots of power using this head. Probably because of the swirl produced by the closed chamber, and the better burn rate of a closed chamber design. This type of combustion chamber is seen in lots of modern engines(90's stuff) and most of this stuff makes more power(by displacement) then the old stuff did. That smaller exhaust valve will help you from losing low speed torque if you cam it up a bit. I'm using a set of these on a 400 I'm putting it together with a cam that's in the 270degree .490" lift range. Although 1.60" is smaller than other mopar bb heads, it is used extensively in small block engines with big displacements(like the 427 cid small block chevy crate motor) I know, I said "chevy" sorry, anyway... I think your 8 1/4 will be fine(as others have said, but others have said an 8 3/4 would be better, and that's true too)
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#10
02-28-2002, 05:42 PM
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I agree with dave571's assesment. The 516 heads will work fine for what your after. Going to the 1.74 inch exhaust is also a good idea. The XE262 Cam is an excellent choice and if you order the k kit it comes with lifters, springs, cam, and dbl roller chain for about 450.00. For an intake I would choose the edelbrock performer. No real need for a heat crossover block off pan if you plan on driving year round. For a carb I found find a TQ and rebuild it from demonsizzler and your set. You got a strong 383 that will get you around town and have some balls available if you need them. Add it up it's not a bad combo:
XE262 Comp Cams K Kit-$450 Performer Intake-$140 (Swap Meet or ebay) PAW rebuild kit-$350 Short Block prep and Head work-$1500 (maybe a little conservative) Carb work-$200 (again conservative) total it up: $2640 (Again very conservative) I'm sure someone will let me know if I am off, but it can't be too much higher than that. 
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#12
03-02-2002, 01:47 AM
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 NO!!! Another Ka-Boom waiting to happen!!!Sell or trade for another 4spd. You'll just need the correct big block bell housing.
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#15
03-03-2002, 10:32 AM
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WHoa there.... the OD 833 has a huge ratio spread, but strength wise... it's not a wimp. For a mild, stump puller, low RPM mill it's great. Probably just the ticket for a fuel ecno PU truck. The torque capacity limit on this tranny is the small spline, fine pitch gear set. A mild 383 is within it's limits. Did you plan on banging gears and burning rubber??
No drag racing, no mudding? No problem! For a daily driver that isn't abused, it will work just fine. But you will need a different bellhousing.
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