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#1
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Hooker Comp. Headers Good or Bad??
I was wanting some input from all of you guys im gonna buy a set of headers i would love to have a set of TTI's but i just cant fork over that much i would like to have a set of Ceramic coated headers to keep heat to minimum since it will see quite a bit of street time. I was at work looking at the Hooker header book and we (advance auto) can get a set of Hooker Comp. Mettalic ceramic coated headers for my 440 71 Challenger for $313.00 and it said they would fit a car with P/S but it also said Modification Required.. How much modification???and what does this modification require. Linkage? i am just wanting any feedback on these Headers and if they are worth buying for my application
Thanks guys! |
#2
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All I can say is that I have used them before, but not for your application and I had no problems.
Now I have been asking myself about this question for the Hemi headers, then just the other day a set of Hooker Super Comp ceramic coated headers showed up on Ebay, they are brand new. All I can tell you is that I am glad I never ordered the Hookers, because I would have sent them back and that would have turned out to be a pain in the butt because the headers would have been special order. And nowhere can I find a picture of the headers form Hooker....not in there catalogue and not on the website. What got me was how the flanges were all cut and nothing seemed to line up. I will post a link to them and you will see what I am concerned about. Then go look at the ones from TTI and then you can see which ones I would buy and they are not the ones from Hooker. LOL. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cg...306837&r=0&t=0 http://www.ttiexhaust.com/products.htm#hemi Okay now this is a link to each....tell me which ones you would buy. LOL. You get what you pay for!!!!! |
#3
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I have had Hookers, now i have TTi's. There is my answer
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#4
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My Love My Hookers ....
They work for me... They look good... I keep them clean... |
#5
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I had the Hooker 1-7/8" "comp" headers on my 383 in the 1971 Charger (basically the same engine compartment as the "E" body.) The Charger has power steering, power brakes, A/C, etc.
I had no problems with these headers (good fit and did not leak), and no linkage problems, but my car has a slap-stick shifter. I think if you have a column shifter you need to modify the linkage? The Hooker 2" Super Comp headers are a very tight fit and had to be dinged for clearance in a few points. |
#6
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About 10 years ago i put a set of Hooker comps in my 73 340 cuda and they held up ok except for one thing. Within a few months the headers started showing rust and within the year they looked like crap. I think the technology for ceramic coating has gotten better . I think it was relatively new when i bought mine. I just rebuilt my engine and cleaned up the compartment. I bought a set of dynomax ceramic coated headers. They're coated inside and out and have a lifetime warranty against rust. Just send them back and they'll recoat them for free. The only thing i don't like about them is that the flange on the bottom is'nt welded to the header is spins on there. I've had problems in the past with it comming off on the origrnal headers that were in the car when i bought it (I think backjack headers). They look and fit like the hookers i had in there before but i had to extend the engine pipes because the header length is shorter. I think they were about $70 cheaper than the hooker comp ceramic coated headers. I got them from jeg's.
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#7
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I'm new here and this post is exactly what I was looking for.I'm in the market for a set of headers for my .60 over 440. Other specs. are Keith Black Hyperutech pistons ,509 lift cam,Roller rockers,big valves (can't remember at this time how big),stock heads,M/T valve covers,4-speed,Lakewood Bellhousing,MSD ign. and billet dist. I want to drive on the street.What headers do you guys suggest I buy? The TTI's look really good,but I seen somthing about a Lakewood bellhousing would need modifications.What kind of modifications are they talking about? Or is that a problem with the 2"? What size would be best for my application.At this time it has Flow max exhaust system set-up for stock exhaust.Will I have to buy another exhaust system or can I make this one work? I don't mind spending extra for the ceramic coating if it keeps engine temp. down.Oh and the car is a 68 Charger. Thanks in advance for your help.
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#8
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Hookers!?!!?
I had a set of regular Hooker headers on my bracket motor. I painted them real good,baked them in an oven at work,put them on my car.....6 months later they were rusty!!! Also,they leaked from day one,I eventually cut the flange and they sealed up a little better.I ended up with Hedman headers and they looked and worked good for years.
Now,on my stocker motor I bought a set of Hooker adjustables off of Jet-Hot. They were coated inside and out. They fit great and still look brand new after 3 years. Jet-Hot's prices were actually better than Jegs or Summit. http://www.geocities.com/icm3459/ |
#9
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Hey Guy's thanks for all your replies i know the TTI's are the better of the two but like i said im kinda limited just wanna get a Good header to do for right now considering i don't even have car on road right now let alone PAINTED! I do believe i will go with the
Hooker Ceramic coated Comp headers for right now. Thanks for all the answers |
#10
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i just bouht a set of flowtech ceramic coated headers from advanced. look good dont know how they fit yet. but they have a life time warranty and were only $250
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#11
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Hooker Comp headers are equal length by looking at the post, those TTI's are not. See the difference in the tube lengths? also, do you need to remove anything to get the TTI's in, like the motor? The flanges are cut because the header probably comes in quite a few pieces. This helps in the install, and they all slip fit into the collector, mine were like this and never had a problem with sealing down there. My one gripe with Hooker is that the flanges are not flush with the head. the tubes protrude past the flange and then are ground flat, producing an "O" ring type seal, not good! There is not alot of sealing area around the ports. I would grind them flat with the flanges before installm much more sealing area and you can tighten the flanges without the middle bowing out (do not overtighten...per Hooker instructions..) As for fit in my narrow A-body, someone really did their homework on these, no contact anywhere! And that is no small feat of engineering on these cars. I would deffinately get the option of having them coated INSIDE also, they will last forever. AS for the other Header manufacturers, they all seemed to be the same on my '57 Ferd/ Cleveland motor, really simple though.
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#12
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headers
anyone know off hand what primary tube size is for the hooker comps for a 440? I am curious. I think the super comps are 1 7/8" but I am not sure. I am looking to change my leaky, no good fitting, hedman's (1 3/4 " primaries) thanks. Also, that $313.00 for coated headers sounds real good. I got a price from jethot for coated supercomps for @450.00. Could difference in price be due to comp vs. supercomp?
-kevin __________________________________________________ '68 Charger mild 440 yeah!!!!!!!!! |
#13
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No that is the Price that i can get them for they are regularly like
370.00 but i get a 20% discount for working at Advance Autoparts and i think it said headers were 1 7/8" primaries |
#14
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Hi, I got some Hooker comps, 1 7/8, ceramic coated in and out. I got them from Jeg's, they were about $350. I havent installed them in the car yet, since it's being restored. I did bolt them to my engine though (383 on the engine stand) and i put in the spark plugs and wires and they cleared everything perfectly. I also compared them to my old headers and the hooker's don't stick out as much (arent as wide), so I'm confident that they will clear everything fine. The hookers also have a little starter "window" to slide the starter in, with my new ministarter it should slide through no prob.
Good Luck |
#15
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headers
yeah, I have hedmans and starter was a problem. Of course I had to read the instructions which say not to install starter before header, yeah right. wrestled driver's one in and no way starter was fitting in (ministarter) had to take it out, install starter and start over. Plus even had to dimple a tube to clear starter! Something smells rotten, maybe they shipped the wrong headers? or maybe you get what you pay for with $90 headers!
kevin |
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