Emissions Controlled Dodge Ram

[Ron 7 Buffalos]

I have an '87 Dodge Ram that was purchased from the USDA. It has a 318ci and a Holley 2bbl. The carb has no tuning screws or idle control screws. Over the years, the carb has gotten to the point where it runs super rich. Is there a way to fix or do I need a new manifold/carb setup?

[Brian Mills]

Usually you just lightly drill out the covers where the screws ought to be, and the screws are in there. Then you can adjust them.

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If it ain't a Dodge, it's a dog!

Brian Mills

[Ron 7 Buffalos]

It's that easy? Weird. Will I have to EZ-out them? The way I heard it, the screws were plastic, and the heads were cut off at the factory. I'll take a look, though.

Thanks!

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My friend's friend was at a car show, when someone commented on the large amount of Chevy hot rods present, compared to the single Mopar. "Let's call ourselves the Bow Tie Boys" they said. The friend of a friend says "Naw... how 'bout "Mopar and the Rest"?".

[Brian Mills]

Any I've ever seen were just covered over, supposedly the emissions were met at that setting and we were to leave them alone.

If you come to this board, you know that never happens!

I had an 83 slant six truck with 2 barrel, just drilled straight in and voilla!

Don't get to Rammy with the drill, you just want to expose the head of the screw.

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If it ain't a Dodge, it's a dog!

Brian Mills

[Ron 7 Buffalos]

Never heard of it done that way, but I'll give it a shot and let y'all know how it goes.
Thanks!

[Brian Mills]

Plastic screws huh? That part didn't register the first time. If you can hold off I'll see if I can find an 87 somewhere in town and check it out. Last year for carbs, they might have done something screwy.

The deal I'm talking about looks like a little square box over each screw, you drill out the front and the regular screws are right there..

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If it ain't a Dodge, it's a dog!

Brian Mills

[Ron 7 Buffalos]

Yeah, the plastic screws thing isn't for sure. I was going on what my friend's dad was telling me. He's been big in auto and motorcycle racing, and engine building in the past 40 years. He was saying that Holley sent Dodge the 2bbl, and Dodge used plastic screws to adjust it for emissions, then clipped the tip so that you couldn't change it. It might just be a Forest Service deal, or it might be stock-wide. I'll have to pull it this weekend and give it a look over.

[Ron 7 Buffalos]

Alright... got it all checked out.
It's a Holley 2280, and you're right. It's a little box thing over the screws. My step-father and I dug all over it trying to figure what was what, and finally decided to just get a new carb. I'm checking prices for a replacement tomorrow (Sunday).

Now there's a different problem. We checked the timing, giving things a general straigtening out and whatnot, when we noticed that when the timing light flashes, the mark on the crankshaft doesn't hit the same mark every time. It's always above the stationary marks, but it varies every time it spins. I have no idea how it could possibly be doing this. Any clues?

[Brian Mills]

Well, the timing mark could move because the chain is loose. It could also move because the vacuum advance is not disconnected and plugged. Finally, the rubber in the harmonic balancer may have deteriorated and is allowing the outer ring to slip a little. Oh yeah, I guess the distributer could be worn.

Check it again, make sure the vac advance is disconnected, if that doesn't work, you need to find top dead center of #1 piston and see if the marks line up.

The old paper towel in the spark plug hole trick works pretty well, just repeat it a few times and see if the mark lands in the same place every time.

You just pull #1 plug, stuff a paper towel tightly in the hole and turn the engine over manually with a wrench on the end of the crank shaft till you hear a pop as the towel gets blown out.

For an accurate reading, you need a degree wheel and a TDC feeler or finder.

If it passes this, I'd pull the distributer next and check for slop or wear. I'm not sure what kind distributer it has, and this is unlikely in my opinion, I've never come across it anyway.

To check the chain, pull the distributer cap and have someone watch the rotor as you manually turn the engine one way then the other with a wrench. You are looking for a heasitation as the rotor changes direction, it should be almost instant. If it is not the chain has slop.

Don't forget, you could have a worn chain and a bad balancer together. If you put in a new balancer, I would look at getting some timing tape to stick on it. If you do, don't rely on the factory marks to be 100%, you will need to find TDC.

Hope this helps.

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If it ain't a Dodge, it's a dog!

Brian Mills


[This message has been edited by Brian Mills (edited January 25, 2000).]

[Ron 7 Buffalos]

I think you may be right about the distributor. I'm dropping a cyl. lately. Not only when it's cold, but also at highway speed, I'm losing power and the exhaust tone changes (I can hear it easily, as I cut off the system right before the catalytic convertor. It dumps straight under the cab). I'll check the distributor asap and let y'all know how it goes.

[RufusTheRam]

chrysler did that plate deal on all of their vehicles through the 80's. i had an 86 truck and a 85 dodge 600, both with that damn plate. drill or cut it out with a dremel or something and there they are. i got a mopar replacement carb for the 600, and it wasn't even adusted right from the factory. i'd go with an edelbrock for your truck, that's what i did. ran 10 times smoother plus a little more power. don't go with holley, they are hell for street use. they require constant jet changes,etc. as conditons change. great for racing and any other wide open application though. edelbrock is very streetable though.

[Ron 7 Buffalos]

Edelbrock, huh. I'll check it out.

Will it fit my stock manifold, or will I have to get a new one?

[RufusTheRam]

i've heard tale of adapters to adapt a 4 barrel to your stock manifold, but you should go with a good manifold along with it to get the most out of it. the carb won't help your performance without one, as your stock manifold was designed to work with your stock carb, not a higher flow 4 barrel. edelbrock makes good manifolds that take full advantage of your new carb. i'd go with a 650 cfm carb with a performer series intake. that's the best setup for a truck with a stock engine. you'll really be able to feel it by the seat of your pants. gives a good moan with your foot in it too... total cost shoudn't be much over 500 bucks at the most, and it's an easy do it yourself install.

[Brian Mills]

Right on Rufus!!!!! I lean to the M1 dual plane though!

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If it ain't a Dodge, it's a dog!

Brian Mills

[Ron 7 Buffalos]

Just over $500? Wow, a replacement Holley would cost me $260... I'll most definately look into Edelbrock.

I think I have to wait 50 more days for my 25% discount to kick in at CSK Auto, though.

[RufusTheRam]

good luck..let us know how it goes. i just picked up an edlebrock 750 from pep boys for right around $230 i think for my 73 duster. they actaully have as good of prices as anywhere around surprisingly.