Injectors

[greatone]

What would happen if I went with injectors before a box? Is that okay? Will my EGT's be fine? Will I need a valve body upgrade? I was thinking about getting the DD2 injectors, and then maybe the box. I am looking to have my truck at 325hp and around 550-600 ft./lb. of torque. Once I get to this level I don't think I will do anything else. This is what I plan on doing:
K&N filter- Some guy said these are bad for the intercoolers, that their oil gets sucked in to the turbo and coats the intercooler, therefore making it less productive.

Injectors?
Silence Ring removal.
What else is a cheap mod that will help me?

[ol ron]

Injectors will give you both power and better mileage, but without a boost module and elbow, you will exceed the safe EGT when under heavy loads or pedal to the metal hill climbs. Do not add injectors without an EGT gauge and probe, preferably pre-turbo. Diesel's get hotter with more fuel. Injectors alone will be a satisfying addition, but without a timing/fueling module, you won't see all the performance you can get. Now, after these additions, you have created another area of concern. The fuel lift pump that transfers fuel from the tank to the filter and injector pump is not designed for the fuel required by the add-on performance devices. That requires an after market pump mounted in series with the stock pump. All these will give you fantastic performance and if you use them all, or you can simply go with a timing/fueling box and a second lift pump and be very happy to start with. A word of caution though, even with just a box, put on another pump and an EGT gauge. Not doing so will most likely cost you an injection pump, or in the case of extreme EGT's, a whole new engine.
Ron

[BIG RED MACHINE]

Not sure what year your truck is greatone,but remember this statement before embarking on your upcoming B.O.M.Bing mission and quest for more power and torque,,Say this over and over many times....I AM MY OWN WARRANTY STATION!!!...,,Once that is embeded into your head and you accept the consequences that accompany this mission your all set and we move on to the next level,,One thing to keep in mind here as you progress ANY modification to fuel or air systems WILL void your factory warranty and all the dealers have a service bulletin making them check for aftermarket modifications,,Now for the level you the easiest way to do it is by adding a box,,The TST Powermax3 is one of the best out there for your application it will easily put you into the HP and torque area you want to be without injectors,,Now for the tranny,it is recommended that a shft improving kit is added when using a fueling box so the already soft shifting tranny will handle the power and torque that will be applied to it with the added mods,,The higher you go in power and torque the more automatic tranny mods you need,,I'll stay away from beginning another K&N bashing match by saying this,,There are those who have had problems like you have stated(oil being sucked thru the air induction system or dirt passing by)but,in all the years I myself have used K&N's products I myself have not had a air intake related failure due to oil passing thru in any of the applications I use them in(they are used in my truck and on my sprint car operation),,Most of the problems you hear of can be attributed to over oiling them and the seal around the air box when its installed,,Your truck, your choice,I am confident enough to say they have a great product and would recommend them,,One last thing,old man once told me when you fuel to the fire in the hole and do not add air to feed it and expedite it you'll end up with meltdown situations,,EGT's are a concern and before adding any mods guages are the first priority,,Let me know how you make out......BRM

[Fest3er]

Thinking about it, your *first* modification should be the installation of an EGT gauge. The gauge will let you know when to back off the throttle under heavy acceleration (actually, if I recall me experiences correctly, under 'lugging' conditions - that is, full throttle operation without the RPM increasing, or increasing very slowly.)

The gauge will also tell you when the turbo is cool enough to shut the engine off. Turn the A/C off and run the engine at, say, 1100 RPM until the EGT is under 300. That will keep the oil in the turbo from coking the bearings.

Then next thing you need to add is a pusher pump (if a 24V) back by the tank to keep the lift pump properly supplied with fuel. The lift pump is rather weak on the Dodge Cummins application.

*Then* you can install a box or two. Then do the injectors. Then a freer-flowing air filter. And when you exceed 300-350 HP, install a 4" turbo-back exhaust. If you have an auto, install a DTT or ATS T/C and valve body before getting much over 275 HP. Then you'll need a super turbo to feed *more* air into the motor. Then another box to feed more fuel. Then twin turbos to get more air. Then o-ring the heads to handle the greatly increased cylinder pressures. Then more fuel. Soon you'll be at 450-500 HP, and having trouble hooking up in 3rd/4th gears.

I hope you're independently wealthy!

Good luck,
Fest3er