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#1
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its about time
well, after a year and a half of driving my baby (the duster) with a mangled back end, its getting some of the body work done next week. i have a friend that does it for a living thats going to teach me how to mend metal, in exchange for teaching him about carbs. i think its a fair trade.
on the list: pair of quarters, trunk floor, deck lid and rear taillight panel, taillights, bumper, trunk wiring. i also get my 275/60/15's on next week, as well as the air shocks, headrs, and if time allows, a dual metering block 3310 holley. can you tell im excited? thanks for letting me share, guys. mike |
#2
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Hey hey hey! Great deal! Sounds goo. Good luck with it all.
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#3
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It's always nice when things go right. I have much the same deal going on at my shop. I'll build a 451 short block, and he'll help me shave handles and such. We both work at the body shop, But I do assy work and prep. Since you know about carbs, how come my Eddy #1400 600 cfm has to be cleaned every 2 mo. Pain in the but. Same with my last Eddy carb #1406. Later,
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#4
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Sounds good to me, except I'm not impressed with air-shocks
I took airshocks off my lats two cars I bought, and had the rear springs re-arched. Ausydad, what is getting so dirty on the carb it needs cleaned all the time? What type of aircleaner assembly do you have? |
#5
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14" chrome open element with Fram CA136 filter. Don't know, but every couple of months, she'll get all black in the throat and pop on me when it's cold and I try to nail it. Changing filter and PCV this week again.
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#6
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The backfiring is likely why the carb is getting so dirty. Do you have a choke hooked up on it?
Also, are you using a drop base air filter? If the filter top is too close to the top of the carb it can cause problems. I have a 1/2" spacer between the top of the carb and the filter base on my 383 (with a 750 CFM Carter), mainly for clearance between the filter base and the throttle linkage. On this type of carb, make sure the float level is set to the high side. If the fuel level in the bowls is too low, you will not get a good accelerator pump shop, and the carb will tend to run lean. |
#7
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I also run a spacer between the base and the carb. 3/4". It only pops when it's dirty. Tells me when I need to clean. Otherwise, it's a pretty smooth runner. Electric choke is functioning, although I don't always have the fast idle first thing in the morning.
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#8
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On my 750 Carter on the 383 engine, I had a rwal hard time getting the carb to run right untill I re-adjusted the float level higher than spec.
I think my fuel pump may have been only putting out about 3.5 to 4 PSI max? With the low fuel level in the carb, the engine ran pretty good, it just was really sluggish accelerating from a stop. I tried different sizes of accelerator nozzels and jetting, but it only made a small difference. Once I figured the fuel level was too low, I had to un-do those changes, but now the engine responded to changes and actually ran right. You may want to remove the step-up rods/pistons and clean the pistons and the carb just to make sure they move freeley. |
#9
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I went out a fewe minutes ago and found the bolt I had connecting the cable to the linkage was loose. So, I grabbed the double sided piece from the 2 bbl parts car. Throttle cable is tight again. Time to replace the air filter (wish I had money for a K&N), hit it with cleaner again. Should I adjust the pump shot on the side? (Edelbrock #1400)
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#10
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what do carb spacers do? any performance gains from one?
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#11
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The spacer we're reffering to is between the air cleaner base and the carb. Drop base air cleaners tend to hit linkage and fuel inlets on Edelbrock carbs, so we have a small spacer for clearance. I do have a spacer under the carb as well, but that's for the spread bore to square bore conversion.
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