|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
? Removing Scale from cooling passages.
Hi everyone!
I have posed questions to you all in the past and your reponses have been great and and extremily helpful. So here I go again with another question for all of you Mopar experts. I have a 1970 Super Bee with the original 383 that is presently torn down to the shortblock (block, crank, rods, pistons, cam timing chain,oil pump are all still in the block). I had to take the heads off due to a compression problem that I had with one of the valves not sealing. You guys were very helpful in helping me diagnose the problem! Thanks! Anyway the heads were reconditioned by Dan Dvorak who by the way did an excellent job with them! (Highly recommend his work!) and are awaiting reinstallation. But, before I put them back on I want to take care of a problem I have had with this engine pluging up my radiator with small bits of scale (which caused me to have the radiator rodded out once ) It would cause some minor temperature problems in start and stop traffic (no overheating though) Since the engine down to the shortblock I can see the scale in the cooling passages (not alot but enough to plug my radiator up. I want clean this stuff out before it beomes a major problem and since the engine is torn down this far. My question is how do I clean the scale out without dissasembing the shortblock? Any techiques? Small wire brushes? Shop Vac it out? I am willing to remove the freeze plugs and clean down in there. The reason I don't want to tear it down any further is the engine was rebuilt only 5000 miles ago and the cylinder walls still good shape (nice crosshatch pattern). Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks Florida _70Bee |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
With the freeze plugs out you could just run hose out the block water passages.
With the engine assembled, you could flush the running engine. Remove the upper and lower radiator hoses and put a water hose in the lower hose. Run the engine untill it warms up and the water should start running out of the top hose. You could also remove the thermostat so you don't have to wait for the engine to warm up. |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
You can also flush the unit when assembled and with the radiator hooked up, but remove the stat like Jim mentioned. Use a tailor made acid base flush or a 50-50 mix of water and muratic acid. Run the engine for approx 30 min, and then flush with water untill clean water shows from block drains. Then flush with baking soda and water for another 5 minutes to kill any remaining acid. It wouldn't hurt to backflush the radiator after the flushings in case any bigger pieces are laying on top of some of the tubes. Install your regular coolant mix and treat with a system conditioner. Don't forget the stat. This is not recommended for cars with aluminum cooling system components. Acids vigorously attack aluminum!
|
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
water passages rusted up | MWK | Slant Six Chat | 4 | 04-12-2005 03:17 AM |
What to block heat riser passages with... | The Dartman | Performance Talk | 16 | 03-24-2004 01:22 PM |
Super Late Pay Scale | DYNO360 | Circle Track Chat | 5 | 08-19-2003 12:29 AM |
Cleaning oil passages in 360? | ToiletDuck | Performance Talk | 6 | 09-05-2002 02:00 PM |
Summits cooling packages up to 1000hp cooling capabilities? | rb77413 | Performance Talk | 1 | 08-09-2002 10:19 PM |