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  #1  
Old 03-12-2002, 02:38 AM
moparmac moparmac is offline
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Default DRIVESHAFT Q's

Hey Guys!
I took the chally out to Cali Speedway over the weekend and did some drag racing just for the hell of it. On the way home is where the problems occured. Car was great for all the passes and most of the way home. After dropping off a buddy, i started to notice a popping/click/clunk noise. I thought it was my pinion snubber hitting the floor pan cause I had it up all the way. I was doing the post race checks on everything and filled the rear axel with a little more fluid. This is when i found where the problem was. The noise was coming from a crack in the eye of the drive shaft on the rear joint! What makes me mad is that the driveshaft was just shortened about 6 months ago and wasted money there! And now this!

Main questions after my little chapter in the Chronicles of the Phord Challenger lol just kiddin its been good to me!

1. I am planning to get a custom driveshaft made. Aluminum or Steel?

Recomendations?
I was told by Inland Empire Drivelines to go with the solid 1350 U-Joint out back along with the 1330 in the front (all they have for a 904 tranny is the 1330 yoke) and go with a 3.5" diameter

What makes aluminum better than steel?
If I change my rear yoke out will this mess up the alignment of the gears?

Thanks Guys!

-Car planned 450+ hp and tourque
-Gonna race it and drive on street
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  #2  
Old 03-12-2002, 09:37 AM
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rumblefish360 rumblefish360 is offline
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An Aluminum driveshaft will cut down on unsprung weight. Thats a + right there. Also, being lighter, it is now easy to spin as compared to the steel shaft. Less weight to spin.
The larger U-joint is also a good idea. The shop will have to replace the unit on the rear and a check of the rear end gears should just take a few min.'s. That should not be a big deal to them. Just another step.
As far as joint size, bigger the better really. If a 1330 is all they have, try and find a 1350 for the front before you start.
I'm not to handy with the "Joint sizes" off the top of my head. So if the don't make one in the size your after it's ethier a custom joint or a mix of U joints.
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  #3  
Old 03-12-2002, 10:55 AM
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cuda66273 cuda66273 is offline
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"What makes aluminum better than steel?"

In your application it's not, Al. shafts are for street rods, light and modest HP.

Call Denny's Driveline in NY and talk to Denny, he'll teach you more about drivelines and set-up in 10 minutes than you can learn in a lifetime on your own.

I'll bet he'll reccommmend a HD shaft with 1350 rear and 1330 front, be sure and tell him that you were referred by Don from FBO Systems in Oregon...that'll get you all the secrets.

Lemme know.......
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  #4  
Old 03-12-2002, 02:14 PM
moparmac moparmac is offline
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Don,
You have the website or phone number to Denny's? I would really appreciate it cause the chally is cryin in the garage cause it hasn't seen our beautiful weather in Cali these last few days! Thanks!
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  #5  
Old 03-12-2002, 03:41 PM
CudaMike CudaMike is offline
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http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/index.html
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  #6  
Old 03-12-2002, 04:18 PM
Dartcustom Dartcustom is offline
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Biggrin

I just got off the phone with Denny himself. I just ordered an HD steel shaft for my Dart. He is very knowledgeable and took the time to explain what works and what doesn't. I am awaiting it's arrival! In my application i am using 7290 joint front/rear. which he said is equal to the 1330 spicer. Thought about the HD alum shaft but i dont want to spend that much really.
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  #7  
Old 03-12-2002, 05:33 PM
moparmac moparmac is offline
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Hey Dart Custom,
Curious how much did they charge to ship it?
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  #8  
Old 03-12-2002, 05:56 PM
Dartcustom Dartcustom is offline
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It costs $25.00 for regular ground, I opted for 3-day, at $10.00 more
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  #9  
Old 03-12-2002, 11:01 PM
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cuda66273 cuda66273 is offline
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Good for you, you have made the right choice.

Now get out there and try and break that thing!
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  #10  
Old 03-12-2002, 11:12 PM
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cuda66273 cuda66273 is offline
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Did you use my name?
or at least referance this board?
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  #11  
Old 03-13-2002, 12:23 AM
Dartcustom Dartcustom is offline
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Actually i read this post after i had ordered. I cant wait to get this car on the road again. Should be a fun car. I had a 72 satellite sebring with a e-58 360 in High school, it was my first engine swap ever, My Dad is a mopar nut, so He could answer any questions i had. I sold that car when i bought my 87 5.0, wish I still had it. I love those body styles. I used to have a 70 Cuda 383, and a 70 Charger R/T/SE, neither made it to the street. SHort attention span i guess. I also got to cruise my dads 63 Chrysler 300, and 65 Coronet 500-383, in school. Lucky me. I was the lone Mopar kid in my school, then my brother carried the torch with his 63 plymouth and 89 Shelby Dakota V8. Damn I am rambling, sorry folks. Well thanks for the great info with my Dart project.

i guess what i was trying to say is If my Dart is half as fun as any of those cars I'll be happy as a pig in s....errr slop
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