Timing and Point gap

[bendgo]

Can anyone tell me the point gap and how to set it on my 170 sl6? My engine is dieseling and i'm quite upset. Simply timing it stopped it last time, but this time, I know I did not set the point gap when I replaced them, because I don't know how.
Also I have been timing it with a vacuum gauge, I don't have a timing light. Is this dangerous?
Thanks.

[dhughes3]

My '63 was set at 0.020 on the points, 2 degrees advance on the timing. I'm pretty sure they're all the same. From past experience, I think you shouldn't try to advance past 5 deg or so; the increase in performance doesn't amount to much. Forget that old stunt of trying to set timing with a vacuum guage. You'll be so far advanced you'll have pinging problems for sure.
As to how to set the points: Set the rubbing block of the points on the high point of the distributor cam so that the points are open to their maximum. You can eventually get to the high point of the cam by bumping the starter, but it usually takes a lot of tries. A better way is to grab the fan belt and pull the motor over until you get it positioned.
Find a screwdriver that fits in the little triangular opening so that the edge is in the little slot in the points. This will allow you to move the base portion of the points on the plate by twisting the screwdriver, thus increasing or decreasing the gap between the two points.
This of course requires that the points be loose enough to move. BUT--if you loosen the lockdown screw too much, and then make your adjustment, when you tighten it the adjustment will change. So here's what I suggest: Loosen the hold down screw JUST enough to allow a screwdriver in the slot to move the points with a fair amount of drag. Set the points with a flat 0.020 gauge; you should feel a slight drag when you pull the gauge through.
Tighten up the hold down screw, the recheck with the gauge.

[bendgo]

Thanks much Hughes!
I will do that ASAP.
The fan belt tip sound like a real time saver.

Bendgo

[bendgo]

Oh, I almost forgot. I have MSD 6A on as an ignition booster, should I widen the gap to accommodate the stronger spark?

I will set the gap to 0.02 though, and work from there if the symptoms continue.

Peace.

[dhughes3]

I doubt if you'd want to change the point gap unless the instructions that came with the MSD said to. If it truly gives a much hotter spark, though, you might open up the spark plugs to 0.050 or so.

[bendgo]

Thanks again for your help, I just finished checking and setting the points. They were totally closed!!!! It took some muscle to move the fan belt, but it sure did save me time. While I was down there I cleaned up the distributor cap and the rotor contacts too. So far so Good! Much smoother Idle, no clunk clunk clunk squeak sputter! after I turn off the car!!!!

As for the spark plugs, I already have them set at .050 as specified by the MSD booklet, but good thinking.

Now all I need to do is bogart me a timing light from a friend, and I can keep one more slant 6 on the road for ever!

Peace fellow Mopar enthusiasts.

Bendgo

[dhughes3]

OK, now your next big learning assignment after you get the critter timed is to set the valve clearances. This one is fun. Let me know if you want to tackle it.
P.S. The fact the engine was hard to turn with the fan belt means you still have good compression!

Here's a cheap way to avoid buying or borrowing a timing light. Get a couple of small alligator clips, a foot of wire, and a 12 volt bulb (dome light bulb will work fine). Cut the wire in half. Solder one piece of wire to the brass case of the bulb on one end and to one of the clips on the other end. Solder the other piece of wire to the center contact of the bulb on one end and to the other alligator clip on the other end. Connect one clip to the moving arm of the points and the other clip to the non-moving plate of the points.
Pull the engine around with the fan belt until it comes up on TDC for #1 (you can find this by pulling the spark plug and checking for compression with a finger while observing that the timing marks on the vibration dampener are coming up). When the marks line up where you want them, turn on the ignition and rotate the distributor until the light JUST comes on (or is it off? It's been a long time since I did this). Lock it down, and your timing is now set. One nice thing I always found about my /6's was that they weren't picky about a degree or two one way or the other, as far as seeing any difference in mileage or power.
On second thought, I don't know how this would work with the MSD. Might be better to borrow the timing light.

[bendgo]

Right on! Good compression!
Isn't stock compression 8.5:1 on a sl6? that's pretty low. I burn low octane fuel...cheap gas, cheap gas, cheap-gas-gas-gas.

I think I was turning the engine backwards though, is that possible??

I'll get back to you on that valve stuff man...

Bendgo

[dhughes3]

I'm thinking 8.4, which is about the same. I think all years were the same, although I wouldn't swear to it. You didn't say what year you have, although it has to be '69 or earlier to have the 170. I never could turn mine backwards more than a little bit, although it should be possible. When I tried it, (using the fan blades for leverage), the belt slipped in the reverse direction.