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  #1  
Old 03-17-2002, 01:18 AM
Questions Questions is offline
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Default Looking to spec 375 or greater HP 360

Am looking to build a 360 which makes in the neighborhood of 375 - 450 HP

I have about $5500 to spend on this project. Any and all advice and pratical input is welcome.

This engine will be going into my '78 Warlock, by the way.


Thanks all.
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  #2  
Old 03-17-2002, 01:56 AM
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dave571 dave571 is offline
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the 380 horse 360 mp crate motor is about 6000 cdn.

If you want to build it yourself instead, I'm pretty sure that most of the specs are in the catalog. Any that aren't in there, would be available from the mopar performance technical hotline
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  #3  
Old 03-19-2002, 12:35 AM
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440cj 440cj is offline
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According to Dyno2000, my rebuilt should push 375 hp and 410 ft/lb tq:

Original '74 block bored .030
crank ground/polished/oil holes champfered
stock resized rods/ARP bolts
KB 10.5:1 Hypereuctectic's pressed to rods
Hughes AL2340 hyd. cam/springs/lifters/retainers
stock pushrods
HD Mopar rockers
Stock 1.88/1.60 stainless one-piece Mopar valves, backcut/2angle
Original 587 "J" heads w/3-angle seats, pocket-ported
bronze guides cut to fit high-lift cam
heads milled for a clean fit
stock dual-plane
rebuilt TQ (Demonsizzler street/strip ) flowing 900++ cfm
1/2" spacer
stock ignition with orange box, recurved distributor
Taylor sprio-pro's with Bosch plugs
Hedman ceramic headers into 3" collector, 2 1/2" exhaust all the way out back and Dynomax Ultra-flows with "X" pipe
Double-roller Summit chain
8-blade alum. water pump
stock HP clutch fan
hi-vol oil pump with stock windage tray
stock oil pan with new pick-up

Probably forgetting something but just to show you that it doesn't take much to get decent torque, all this costs approximately $ 3,200.00 total. 440cj
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  #4  
Old 03-19-2002, 01:01 AM
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rumblefish360 rumblefish360 is offline
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Looking at 440cj's build up, I would change the piston/comp ratio to the KB zero deck or less. 10.5 is a bit high for an iron headed engine. I don't know what cam the is by hughes. Thats the problem of posting part #'s instead of specs. Heres the web site to go look around.
http://hughesengines.com/www/hughesengines/
Hughes has some nice cams to chose from. Try and grab as much lift as you can with the stock rockers.
I would recomend a cam in the area of 284 *'s of duration like the MoPar purple cam or equal. Try a look at comp cams, engle and ultradyne as well.
A edel RPM intake and a 750 carb will do you well with a set of 2.02 intake valves. With this, you should be a rockin!

Oh, by the way. there is a big diff and a big gap between 375 & 450 HP. The smaller HP level may be better to use because of torque concerns with a hi HP level engine. You can use a smaller cam and still whoop out 400hp with good torque. Pushing past this may compromise the good driving charteristics you may want in a heavy truck.
You may also go faster in the 1/4 because you have more torque.
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  #5  
Old 03-19-2002, 01:27 AM
Hittman55 Hittman55 is offline
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I have recently built a 360 for my 73 duster lookin for the same power and streetabilty you are and I must say this combo rocks:

76 Block .30 decked just for cleanup i think .015
rods resized with arp bolts
crank kit from Advance auto parts
Keith black #107 about 10:1 compression
old torker intke (better than new torker 2 units which have swept runners)
blocked off heat cross over to intake
comp extreme energy cam 230/236 dur. and 488 491 lift
matching springs and lifters
all other stock valve gear (new)
double roller timing chain from autozone (dynagear)
new high volume oil pump
carter high volume pump
750 vacum sec holley with 50cc sqwirters(double pump would run better)
MSD ignition 6AL with blaster 2 coil (definatly better than any color box u could get from mopar)
set timing at 32-34 deg total advance all in about 2400 rpm
new mopar disributer with good advance curve

happy with high test fuel and planty of timing advance any more than 10:1 you will have problems with pump gas, then you would have to retard the timing to comp for the knock, then you would lose the added advatage of more compression. my heads are stock air injected units from the same year. I have installed 2.02 intake valves and opened the bowl up under the valve to try an match the valve size. No grinding on the short side raduis which will definatly help if done right! This engine idles at about 750 rpms (my car is manual 4 speed) And revs hard and fast! Make sure the machine work is the best out there very important to have good square and round cylinders! Dump the money in the heads if you can. This combo will make the power u need! and wont break your wallet. I have about $2200 in my engine. Hope i could help!
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  #6  
Old 03-19-2002, 01:43 AM
78 Red Express 78 Red Express is offline
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hey welcome lil red express..

i have a 78 red express which im rebuilding the engine, hope to have it done for powerama!!! i have about $7000cdn in the engine so far

anyways i gots=
mopar shortblock 360 10:1
edelbrock performer rpm intake
edelbrock aluminum heads
holley 770 street avenger
comp cams rollewr rocker set
k&n filter and xtreme top
arp head bolts
felpro 054 head gaskets
hooker comp headers(a must)
new mopar water pump
mopar fuel pump
chrome blackets, blang blang!
275 amp alt
might get aluminum pulleys??

might also get nos cheater kit and a bedcover
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  #7  
Old 03-19-2002, 09:36 AM
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cuda66273 cuda66273 is offline
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It's pretty easy to build 1 HP per cubic inch, but as that ratio grows you start to seriously sacrafice drivability and longevity.

Your program is very achievable using basic off the shelf Mopar or aftermarket parts. Just remember that when you build all that HP you still have to get it to the ground, save some money for the drive line, rear end and tork convertor.

A good radiator, oil cooler, fuel supply and delivery system, tranny shift kit should all be on your shopping list.

From my crank back I have about $4500 invested to get my power to the ground.

Good luck and welcome aboard
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