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#1
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Need MSD, TDC, and Ignition help
ok last weekend i put my msd 6al and billit dist, with msd coil and wires, one question the insructions say that it gets a 12v key on power. well i have two, one that is key one, but turns off when i crank it, and one that is on when you crank it. which do i use, or do i use both, currently i am using both, and i get spark to the coil wire, to the dist, the car is not making any sounds of wanting to start, so i want to re-set the car to TDC, could someone refresh my memory on this, its been a while,
thanks, joe |
#2
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its a 440
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#3
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joe: youre going to have to pull the dist. cap and the #1 plug and turn over the motor and when you have compression coming out of the #1 plug hole your on a comp. stroke , now look at the rotor to see where its pointing it should be coming up on the terminal and wire that was on # 1 cyl. also look at the crank. damper and timing pointer . it should be close to O degrees.
now use the 12v. power that is hot when the key is on. dont need the other one. good luck |
#4
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With the MSD6AL, just connect the wire that originally went to the coil "+" terminal to the MSD +12 "switched" wire (I'm not sure of the color.) The big RED +12 wire on the MSD unit goes directly to the battery + (not through the switch. The big BLACK wire goes to a good ground connection, preferably where the negative battery cable meets the block.
You are triggering with the MDS dist, so you don't use the white wire from the MSD6al, it should not be connected to anything. If you connect the original coil (+) wire to the MSD6AL switched +12v wire as above, it does not matter if you leave the old ballast resistor in the circuit or you can just short both sides of the ballast resistor connectors together and then to the +12 switched wire on the MSD6AL. I think the small orange and black? wires from the MSD6al go to the coil "+", and "-" terminals. These should be the only wires connected to the ignition coil. |
#5
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as far as the old coil wire, its not in there anymore, all of the wires were taken out last season (was not my decision, long story) so i was just looking for a wire out of the firewall that had key on, there is a brown one and a green one, but the green one has key on but turns off when cranking, and the brown one only has power when cranking. i am getting my msd main power from the starter relay is that ok,
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#6
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I think the closest wiring diagram I have is for a 1971 Dart.
The wire you need to have hooked up when in the "run" position, should be Dark Blue. On my diagram this wires comes from the "N" terminal (upper left connection of the center connector at the bulkhead) of the bulkhead connector? This dark blue wire also goes to the voltage regulator and one feild of the alternator. The wire for the "start" position that normally went to the ballast resistor/ignition coil, should be brown, and come from the bulkhead connector "Q" (third down, left side, center connector?) What do you mean the car dosen't sound like it wants to start? does it turn over? did you install the distribitor 180-degrees out of phase? If the distribitor is just out of time, remove the #1 spark plug and bump the starter over while placing a finger over the spark plug hole. When compression pressure blows on your finger, bump or turn the engine so the timming mark is at 10 before TDC. Remove the distribitor cap, and line up the magnetic pickup with the reluctor(sp) tooth. Maks sure the rotor is pointing to the terminal in the cap that goes to the number one cylinder. Lock down the distribitor, replace the cap and rotor, install the spark plug and wire. The timming should now be good for getting the engine started. |
#7
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You have to joint the two wire together .When I change my ignition my car would only start when I let the key go ,I put the two wires together now it has power while turning the key and after.That's the way Chrysler have their ignition set up one for cranking and one for running.Mine is set up that way since1994.If you need more help you can reach me at xlpro@nb.aibn.com. Have a nice day
Robert |
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