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#1
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Should I go interal too,on a 360
Just raced the charger this weekend with a stock 360 out of a cordoba.all I did to it was to change the oil pump and oil pan gaskets.needless to say I blew it up.running a 6.00 final on 3/8 track,turned it 5500,this car hooked up first time out.the motor just puked,didnt give me much time to see the problem.Im going to drop it off too,am going to get .30 over, should I bring up internally balancing also for a purestock class,or will having it done right be ok for this class.I need to get about 5600 out of this motor,will it take it freshened up ,or am i wasting my money.have a 318 too,which would be better,Im lost. thanks Mike p.s.- Dyno 360,I weighed in at 3440,man was I happy.
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#2
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Rebuilding a 360
What kind of rebuild are you planning Fury 66? What kind of cam, valve springs, type of pistons, etc.? When they take apart the engine, you may be able to determine what caused it to blow. Good Luck and keep us posted of your progress.
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#3
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Fury 66,
I would go the balance route with a BM flex plate, Usde a neutral balance torque conv. (eg; take the balance weight off the existring 360 TQ). Valve springs is another place to spend sometime/money with a good cam around the .500 lift. With boring I would go .020" instead of the .030 save that for the next time. Hyper pistons will work fine make the wrist pin fits full floating on rod and piston. Sandborn has some good oil modifications. Don't think you don't need to do them. I also use a truck oil pan(rear sump) and weld a chevy oval track kit to it. You may not be able to do this if you have no engine set back need 4" min. for center link clearance. You mentioned getting the engine out of a cordoba did you get the trans. Point is I beleive it was a 76-77 cordoba I got my 999 trans out of. If you used that trans with the 2.74 first gear then you final out to a 6.71 instead of the 6.00. This is asuming you run the 2.45 rear end with a 904/ 727 first gear to get the 6.00. I run a 3/8 dirt at Southern Raceway . Milton,Fl. The 6.00 gear was not enough to say with the pack. I now push the engine 6800/7000 with a 7.42 final. As you evolve the RPM's will need to increase this is why you build for the 7000 range if rules will let you. Hope this will help. ps: I also run a oil accumulator ===save engines! RamHead |
#4
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Also, on a totally stock engine it is easy to pump most of the oil in the pan up on top of the engine leaving practically none in the pan thus starving the oil pump and "POW"!
And stock pans are notorious for letting what oil you have in the pan run up the side of the pan in the corners again starving the pump. You must keep your oil pump pickup covered with oil even at low RPM. |
#5
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Oil Pan
Some good thoughts about the oil pan. Is there an aftermarket pan that you can recommend? Most speed equipment companies make pans for drag racing, not oval racing.
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#6
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There are several good wet sump pans out on the market. We use a Canton pan/pickup on our wet sump limited engine. I'm sure there are others. But, many tracks require their hobby stock classes use a stock pan (at least externally). Here it requires owner modification. Trap doors are fairly easy to fabricate, oil scrapers require practically no $ only time, oil pan vertical baffles help keep the oil from running up the pan, etc.
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#7
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more oil pan info
KEVKO makes a good pan for the 360 that will fit in stock location, clear the steering link and K-frame, keep the pick-up covered, and add additional capacity. Used one for a couple of years in my street stock Dart on dirt and no oil related problems. Tried a stock type pan for 1 practice-watched the oil pressure gauge jump up and down while exiting the corners-bought the KEVKO!! End of story.
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#8
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You can take what Lon says to the bank. He knows what he's doing. Only wish he would talk more on here!
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#9
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Good suggestions on oiling. I modify the stock pan by making the sump a couple inches deeper and then modify the pickup. Works fine and is inexpensive (although I wouldn't mind picking up one of those Kevco pans).
The internal balance issue is one of those things you're gonna have answer yourself regarding the cost versus benefit deal. When it's said and done you'll be paying close to $500 more on the rebuild to go internal balance (new dampner too). It's definitely beneficial, but it just might be an issue of diminishing returns on a pure stock engine that's pretty mild as far as race engines go and turn only 5600. I guess it just depends on how much you have to spend. |
#10
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Stock Sump
I would strongly recommend the Kevco or like pan. On my street stock I tried several versions of homemade stock pans. I was never able to keep the pick up covered. I "solved" the problem with a Moroso accumulator. Oil pressure would still drop coming out of the corner but it was high enough to keep the motor from exploding.
I believe that the Kevco pan would have solved my problems and it is cheaper (and better) than the accumulator. |
#11
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Fury66, I also run the Kevco pan and it works great. You can pick one up for around $150 and never have to worry about that again. I would make some minor mods to the oiling system, even in a stock class. It's cheap insurance. Also, it doesn't hurt to add an additional 4 holes to the oil filter adapter. Most come with 4, but to add 4 more is just that much less restriction. Smooth any burrs that are in the oil path. All of these things will help you reduce the chance of oil starvation and ruining a motor. The accumulator is a big help also. Hope this helps, and ................See ya at the track!!
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#12
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Here is my story. We run Kevko pan and Moroso accumulator and have had no problems with oiling. Tried deep Moroso pan (that we had) and it was just too deep, once we got the car setup and lowered there wasn't any clearance. Called Kevko, sent them a diagram of what we wanted and got it one week later. Stock depth and holds 8 quarts in a dart body with motor in stock position. Added accumulator for insurance, turned 7300 all season with no problems in the lower end.Good Luck and keep the MOPARS out front.
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#13
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Stock?
MoparVann, How stock looking is your Kevko pan. If it is stock depth, but holds extra quarts, it must stick out on the sides, right?
Did you repaint it a stock color? |
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