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#1
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Hey guys!! I've been meaning to post this question for awhile now, but I've been waiting to take a digital picture of my problem.
As most of you know I drag race a 1973 Dart Sport (12.5:1 318, 4500 TCI 727, 4.30 gears) that runs high 12's. This winter I am planning on replacing the quarter panels, painting the car, and installing a custom 6 point rool bar (wife insisted after a death at my local track). While I have the car tore apart I plan to fix my rotten passenger's side rear frame rail as well (see picture below). Being a daily driver for 10 of the last 17 years, our midwest winters and outdoor storage were very hard on this car. This is compounded with my battery sitting directly above the most rotten part of the frame, contibuting to the problem as well. It looks to me like I have several alternatives to fix the problem (in order of ease). I could patch the area in question with 1/8 or 1/4 inch plate welded in place. Or, find a donor car and cut only the rusted area out and repair the area with the donor car's frame rail. Finally would be to order a new frame rail for the car. New frame rails are about $300 a pair (I only found B body frame rails even), and would really require much more work than I am willing to put into it. If I would go through this much work I would frame it with 2X3 and tub it out (which I already have 1 narrowed strange axel). I planned in the future on running MP's 3 inch relo kit to put the spring on the frame itself, but with so much rust here I don't think I can unless it is fixed 100%. I was wondering too if the kit added any reinforcing to the frame rails for mounting the shackles? I really would like to run the 3" kit with mini tubs to still be legal to run Super Stock down the road. I still have the original 340 and all the correct parts to do this except the legal ThermoQuad for my car/class. This may even be a pipe dream, especailly since I still have my "Boat Anchor" 300,000 mile 66 440 to build to put into sumthin'. Any ideas for a guy with a limited budget (my wife rules the checkbook) and limited resources? Thanks!! Scott "The Dartman" Petersen See my Dart Sport and Dad's Duster at: www.carsandgirls.com/petersenracing |
#2
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As you may or may not know,I have a 71 Demon that I race,and I have installed a similar kit as the Mopar deal.In your situation,you have obviously looked at all of the possible repair options,If you want to keep the car legal for Super Stock (as I'm also doing)the aftermarket 2x3 frame rails moved inboard would be legal.In fact all the S/S cars do this now.The only other option I can see is to replace the frame rail with a donor unit.I'm sure there are some new ones still in the Mopar pipeline,ask a dealer to get on parts voice and try to find one for you.Another option is to call Auto Rust Technicians (they have a web site) and see what they can do.
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#3
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One more option would be to get someone who lives in the Desert Southwest to get you a rust free replacement panel from one of our wrecking/recycle yards. Check www.dvap.com, they have a '73 Dart complete that you may be intrested in.
The Old Hippie Hisself |
#4
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Give Auto Rust Technicians a call, they make stuff specifically to repair this kind of rust. I don't have any contact info but they are in the Mopar mags.
Steve |
#5
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I didn't know that your car was a Demon, Christopher. I actually thought you had a Road Runner and a Dart (and I still would like to see some pics of them to put on my website!!).
I will be investigating the Auto Rust technicians and Dealer slant right after I post this message, but I still wonder whether the Mp kit (or others) reinforces that area of the frame at all. This may determine the way I fix it. In the photo it looks like where the shackles should bolt is a reinforced 1/2 piece of metal inside the frame. Maybe this area is actually the majority of the support for the relo kit? You cannot tell from the photo, but the rotten part of the frame rail is only on the inboard side, in fact, the outboard side feels extremely sound. If you look closely at the photo you can see my battery hold down bolts right near the rotten area. The car has had the battery in the trunk since it was new (it was bought new and had a hole cut in the hood and was immediatly drag raced in the high 12's). The battery has also been in the trunk "bare" that is, no case since new until I started drag racing it as well. [This message has been edited by The Dartman (edited November 22, 1999).] |
#6
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Yes the car is actually a Demon.It was a original 340 4-speed car,and we picked it up as a body only for $60.00 many many years ago.Why my Dad and I started calling it a Dart,I cant remember.Probably when we were looking for some body parts we would tell people it was a Demon and get the usual ????.Plus I live in the bible belt and the name "Demon" doesn't sit too well with some of the "folks" down here. The M-P kit will not reinforce the rear frame rail.If I remember correctly,the steel is in the rear shackle area as a reinforcement when the cars were tied down on the trains and the car transporters.If I can ever figure out how to transpose pictures,I'll do it.When the racing season starts again for me,I may put up a website,but that will depend on if I have a sponsor.
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#7
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Its funny that you mention the name "Demon" in that context. My 73 Dart Sport (a 73 Demon after the bible belt complained about the name). Heck I even ordered quarter panels last month, and when they came in I was checking them out and realized that they were for a Dart not a Dart Sport. I called them back (Classic Auto Body Panels) the lady said that I didn't tell her that I had a "Sport", and that I told her I had a Dart. I corrected her about the name of the car "Dart SPORT" not just "Sport". Hopefully they've updated thier records and future orders will not be messed up.
The quarters in question were $64 a side, and although only go up to the mid body line, are well worth the money for a "non perfect" drag car. Cost me about $70 to have them shipped via truck. I also called Auto Rust technicians and faxed them a diagram of the area I'd like to have fixed. The entire frame is $199 and any custom patch panels start at $99 (although I don't have an exact price yet). Slightly more than I'd like to spend, especially since I plan on tubbing it down the road anyway. I guess I'm going to get some metal and locate a brake to bend up a patch panel to get me through. P.S. Auto rust technicains website is: www.autorust.com |
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