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  #1  
Old 05-25-2002, 01:13 AM
jimmycarter jimmycarter is offline
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Default sleeving a block

does anyone know about how much it would cost to sleeve every cylinder of a 340? i took mine out before it was extremely weak. i havent taken the heads off yet, so i dont know if its cylinder wear, or a ring problem
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  #2  
Old 05-25-2002, 01:35 AM
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5th_Ave_Sleeper 5th_Ave_Sleeper is offline
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Unhappy $$$

My machine shop charges $80 per sleeve+ the cost of the sleeve @$10-15 ouch!
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Old 05-25-2002, 02:47 AM
jimmycarter jimmycarter is offline
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ouch is correct
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Old 05-25-2002, 03:13 AM
gonzoe211 gonzoe211 is offline
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SOUNDS ABOUT RIGHT MY MACHINIST CHARGER ME 75 BUCKS GOOD THING IT WHAS JUST ONE. 80X8=640+120=TOO MUCH FOR ME YOURE BETTER OFF LOOKING FOR ANOTHER BLOCK.
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Old 05-25-2002, 03:26 AM
jimmycarter jimmycarter is offline
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i figured if it was less than 50 a piece i would go ahead and do it. if im not able to rebuild it without sleeving, i think i'll just keep it in my garage. maybe some day i will stumble upon a bag of money
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Old 05-25-2002, 01:38 PM
John Kunkel John Kunkel is offline
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I wonder why, without disassembling it, you would worry about sleeving. Was it bored to maximum before?
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  #7  
Old 05-25-2002, 05:22 PM
jimmycarter jimmycarter is offline
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its on an engine lift, via head bolts, and i dont have anywhere to put it right now. im trying to figure out of i should start saving money to rebuild my block, or just go ahead and buy a suspension rebuild package.
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  #8  
Old 05-25-2002, 05:30 PM
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5th_Ave_Sleeper 5th_Ave_Sleeper is offline
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Biggrin I Know!

You could sell the 340 to me!
Wait till you take a haed off before making any rash decisions.
An engine builders most valuble tool is patience.
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  #9  
Old 05-25-2002, 07:25 PM
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Don't panic about sleeveing until you get it apart.

It shouldn't need to be sleeved, unless it's been rebuilt once already, and then worn out again. Even then, if it was a factory reman, they are only .020" over, and pistons are available up to .060" over.
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  #10  
Old 05-25-2002, 10:52 PM
jimmycarter jimmycarter is offline
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i was just thinking of all the possibilities as i sat down and tried to figure out everything i would eventually need. i suspect that its been rebuilt once. the intake manifold has obviously been off, non factory freeze plugs, and the paint looks to be about 5-10 years old. hopefully it was only .10 or .20, id rather not have to bore it out to .60 over. ive got a 360 that im about to put in the car.

what i was thinking about was rebuilding the suspension while the engine was out so i dont have to undo the transmission bolts again. i have big fat hands, and that was a pain in the ass. but if the $300 would be better spent on getting sleeves, i didnt want to spend it before i knew.
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  #11  
Old 05-26-2002, 04:00 PM
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1972roadrunner 1972roadrunner is offline
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i've got my 340 bored .040 over, it had been rebuilt once before but not up to my specs.... go to http://tmezz.mezzweb.com/ to look at it. i would keep a 340, with the right combo you can run mid to high 10's with me! (don't freak, i've got my hopes up because according to about 3 people and some stop watches on a road with mile markers in 1/4 mile increments thats what i run...)

i would rather bore it, than to sleeve it unless you don't want bigger pistons....bigger pistons is more cubes....a little more power...
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Old 05-27-2002, 09:27 AM
sundrop_440 sundrop_440 is offline
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Default 340 boring

I'D think twice about boring a 340 out to .o60 that is a little thin for that block and might calapse :
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  #13  
Old 05-27-2002, 02:01 PM
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well, .060 at 12.5:1 compression would be scary, but if your just runnin a stock, daily driver, 10:1 compression could work, but still a little scary
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  #14  
Old 05-27-2002, 08:42 PM
jimmycarter jimmycarter is offline
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i wouldnt want to bore 60 over either; unless the block was sonic checked. i noticed in my book that it says +.40 maximum.

that is a nice looking roadrunner, by the way. im drawn to the work in progress/mad max 2 type cars. for some reason they appeal to me more than a bright shiney 100% restored car.
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  #15  
Old 05-27-2002, 09:57 PM
Tarrbabe Tarrbabe is offline
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Cool 340 BORE

Mother says MOST SB pre 77 blocks can be bored .060". I have checked the core shift on my 340 and I wouldn't hesitate to bore it 60 if I needed it. My 340 has about 175,000 on it and it mikes out a .017" wear so I will have it bored .030 to make sure it cleans up properly. The 340 blocks have a high nickel content and don't wear as quickly as a standard performance block. I'd have the block checked for wear by a good machine shop and make my decision from there. The one constant you can count on is that if you cut corners you will have a cut rate engine. If you can't afford to build it right the first time, you can't afford to build it twice or three or even four times. If your in a hurry, you should rethink your plans. If you do it right you will understand from the performance and when you hear others complain about all the problems they are having.
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  #16  
Old 05-27-2002, 10:48 PM
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1972roadrunner 1972roadrunner is offline
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thanx jimmy, i too like the more rugged, faster cars than the 105% restored trailer queens driven by sniveling little creeps that don't want you checkin out the engine for fear you'll get it greasy or think about stealin sumthin.....

i like bein able to make mods and not worry about price, i'm not plannin on selling my car for a VERY long time!
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