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Old 05-26-2002, 03:52 PM
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Tncpl420 Tncpl420 is offline
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Question Kick - Down Lever

Hey....i realize the kick down lever down shifts into the passing gear. But I seem too be adjusting the top end, as in the R.P.M.'s, when I adjust the length of the lever. And seem too lose my o/d at certain lengths. Can someone give me a break down on what exactly can be done with the different adjustments envolved with the 'kick down". Thank You
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Old 05-26-2002, 07:41 PM
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1972roadrunner 1972roadrunner is offline
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if the lever is set too far to the front of the carb, it will engage too soon and will want to be in low gear all the time. vise versa when you put it too far to the back of the carb, you will more than likely fry your tranny from a lot of slip.

the kickdown can allow you to stay into a low gear longer for racing when leaving the shifter in drive, and give you more tranny pressure allowing for strong, stiff shifts with little slip. -OR- you can get into high gear quickly and have smooth, weak shifts that can burn the tranny up.

one thing i did:

1: get rid of the stock lingage
2: get a cable system of any kind, cable is much better
3: put the carb at full throttle, have a friend hold it or tie sumthin to it
4: put the lever as far back as it will go, back off a little if ya want, but not too much.
5: go for test drive
6: if it shifts fine in drive, leave it.
7: if it wants to be in low gear, back it off some. test drive again.
8: drive and adjust, whatever you like, just don't fry the tranny.
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Old 05-26-2002, 11:09 PM
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Tncpl420 Tncpl420 is offline
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Thx. for the info....good stuff to know. What do ya think about the adjusting bolt... on the lever closest to the carb? Where should I place it on the slide? I have it about half way, maybe a bit towards the front. I do alot of country road driving....you know 45 - 55 mph. I have had my motor rev pretty high. I dont have a tach but kinda freaked myself out a little at how load she screams. It's a 650 Holly W/ a dual plane high raise intake. I don't have a clue about the internal parts (cam and stuff) I've owned the car 6 mos. and have been tuning it with great success. The guy I bought it from either didn't havea clue or lied his ass off....I think he lied his ass off. I feel kinda foolish but he told me it had a 318 in it and he blew the motor....and that then he replaced it with a 340. Well I had a 73 Duster 15 yrs ago with a 318 but I didn't know any better so I believed what he told me....but it turns out my Dart has a 318. But like I said she screams. But I this guy didn't do any maintenance to the car. I've replaced front end bushings ( it had a bent strut bar) I got a book and started in and am happy too say it turned out great. I've also done gas shocks all around and some ignition and carb work and replacement stuff. She doesn't really use any oil but I get a little smoke at start up...kinda blue....I'm thinking valve seals. Thanks again.
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Old 05-27-2002, 12:55 PM
John Kunkel John Kunkel is offline
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I'm a little confused, in the first post you state "And seem too lose my o/d at certain lengths". Is this an overdrive Torqueflight (A500/A518) or a 904/727?
Does the Holley carb have the "U" shaped Mopar throttle arm adapter? If not, the linkage ratios will be off depending on where the stud is located. When properly adjusted, the rear of the slot on the top rod will contact the stud at idle and the linkage will start to move rearward with the slightest throttle opening. There must be a spring to pull the linkage forward.
Adjusting the linkage so that the trans lever is full aft at WOT will usually result in uncomfortably high part throttle upshift speeds. With factory linkage, properly adjusted, there will be some trans lever travel remaining at WOT.
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Old 05-27-2002, 01:53 PM
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well, if the stock linkage works fine for you, i would do the following to adjust it...

1: put the carb at WOT (wide open throttle) keep it there...undo the spring or sumthin
2: put the linkage slide bar as far back as it will go, and back off maybe a 1/2"
3: if it won't get into your last gear at a low rpm, back it off some more (slide it toward the front of the car)
4: back it off until it shifts like you want, but don't back it off where it shifts at 1500 with a shit load of slip...

hope this helps, good luck and try not to burn up the tranny... if the lever doesn't get to where it doesn't move a whole lot, there shouldn't be a problem...
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