Suspension Question???

[moparchick66]

I am currently doing a suspension upgrade on my 66 Plym Satellite 318 4bbl. I want something that will handle very well, but nothing too extreme. Would putting HEMI suspension torsion bars and leaf springs be too much??? If anyone has any advice on how to upgrade please let me know. Thanks

[72Challenger]

The most important factor to handling is tires. The next most important factor is keeping the tire contact patch maximized at all times. That's the job of the suspension. A stiffer suspension helps handling because it limits body roll, and body roll will cause the tire to lift the inside edge from the road surface. You say you want to handle very well, but not too extreme. Obviously these are subjective measurements that mean different things to different people, so I can only give you generalizations.

The wider the tire, the better. Get as wide a tire as will fit in your wheelwells. Stickier tires handle better. Get a performance tire. Disadvantages to this are that wide tires have a greater tendency to hydroplane in the rain. This can be offset some by increasing tire pressure when it's wet. Larger tires cost more. Performance tires cost more. Performance tires wear out faster.

The stiffer suspension will help up to a point. Go too stiff, and the tires can no longer follow road variations, and a tire that's in the air has NO grip. Stiffer suspension also means a harsher ride. Another way to counteract body roll while maintaining a softer ride is with stiffer anti-sway bars. The disadvantage is that you will chage the understeer/oversteer characteristics. This can be balanced by matching front and rear sway bars. The end that slids first is too stiff.

The less suspension movement the better. Polyurethane bushings can help here.

My recommendations to you would be, in order:

A good book on handling
Tires
Stiffer suspension
Poly bushings

[Tarrbabe]

Use your head and you will come out ahead. If your springs and bars are weak you can improve the handle by going to the hemi parts. If you want the most bang for the buck for a street driver, get a set of matched, (front and rear) sway bars from someone in the aftermarket. Quality parts are what makes a car handle. Use GOOD shocks, bars and everything. It can get expensive, but you can end up with a car you will be happy with and that is worth the trouble and expense.

[Mr. Cuda]

The book 'How to Make Your Car Handle' by Fred puhn (ISBN 0912656468) is a good resource to have. Don't let the 25 year old publish date fool you, this book is very good. To get a good deal go to www.addall.com and search for it.

The hemi leaf springs and torsion bars are a good start, but also think about installing poly bushings front and rear. Also, put decent shocks in all four corners. Bilstein, Konis, or even KYB.

Going to a larger rim diameter will help, but so will going with a lower profile tire. Less sidewall = less distortion and contact patch loss during cornering.

I'm not familiar with the size of the '66 Satellites, but if it is a long car, you may want to look at sub frame connectors.

[rumblefish360]

WOW, Good advice from all. They got you covered moparchick66.
Now, I know your an Aussie. The HEMI parts you refer to are American or Aussie HEMI parts?
Here, in the states, HEMI would fall under Big Block. Very few parts outside the engine it self are given the word HEMI part.

IMO, the switch from my stock rear springs to the XHD springs on my car stiffened it up some. Not to bad at all. It help things out nice. It wasn't to hard on the street and cornered well. The best was when I did the rear sway bar in the car. It had none. I got the front and rear from a low mileage Cordoba.
This really improved the whole package! Do these in sets. Not 1 at a time. (Sway bars, front and rear. Both leaf springs at once.)

[moparchick66]

Thanks Rumblefish for the extra advice! I am currently doing all of this work as we speak and for someone who has never done suspension, it is quite some work. I am putting XHD springs, KYB shocks,Torsion Bars and a front sway bar (the satellite doesn't even have one) I haven't decided whether I will put a rear sway bar yet. Anyways, thanks for all the advice.

[72Challenger]

While it's often best to install sway bars in sets, remember that most factory cars only had fronts. Wait until you've driven the car first before you decide if you need the rear bar. If you've got bad understeer (the front of the car slides more than the rear, the faster you go the farther you need to turn the wheel in a curve), then you will want to add the rear bar. If understeer is mild, you're fine. If you've got oversteer (the back end slides first) then DON'T add a rear bar, you'll make it worse.

[Tarrbabe]

Most Mopar cars have been offered with a handleing package, and the ones used for cop cars had the best. Most stock Mopars push like a bulldozer. If you install the "stock" rear sway bar, you will still push as that is the way it was designed. I installed a rear sway bar off a fury cop car on the rear of a Volare and still had push. But with the change I could drive the car with the throttle in autocross events. It is really cool to drive a car that is almost neutral in handleing.

[rb77413]

Originally posted by Tarrbabe
Most Mopar cars have been offered with a handleing package, and the ones used for cop cars had the best. Most stock Mopars push like a bulldozer. If you install the "stock" rear sway bar, you will still push as that is the way it was designed. I installed a rear sway bar off a fury cop car on the rear of a Volare and still had push. But with the change I could drive the car with the throttle in autocross events. It is really cool to drive a car that is almost neutral in handleing.

Why I miss my 86 Dip ex-cop car Handled almost as good as our ACR Neon. It had 245-60-15's