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#1
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I own a 66 dodge charger with a 318, I would like to increase the horse power. Want to put headers on it but don't know which ones are the best per the buck. Also thinking of installing a MSD 6A ignition system in it. Need help determining a problem with my car as well. Each mourning I have to spray starter fluid into the carbeurator to make it turn over, it cranks, but it doesn't seem to get enough to turn over on it's own and once it does start each time I want to start it again it cranks longer each time to turn over, I was thinking it was a faulty starter, any suggestions?
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#2
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sounds like you need to check the brushes in the starter. as far as starting fluid, dont use too much or you might burn a hole in the top of your pistons.i put a fresh engine in my cuda about 2 months ago and have been through 4 and on my 5th starter.
WHATEVER YOU DO DON'T BUY A DURALAST STARTER. want more power?,head to your local speedshop and pick up a energizer cam 272dur./454lift,and a 650 holly doublepumper carb. NEED ANY CAMARO OR MUSTANG DOORS? HA HA GOODLUCK |
#3
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One other thing to check is the battery cables at both ends. Make sure the negative cable is attached to block and that the ground strap between the block and the body are attached. Don't use too much starting fluid, it will cause alot of other problems. Headers, just about anything will work for the street, but if you don't have a four barrel carb. and a decent cam you are not going to be happy with the results. You will also need to make sure your mechanical advance is up to the performance standards you want.
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#4
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I have a '66 Charger with the 383 you should try to put one of those in it sure increases horsepower.
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#5
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IS YOUR 318 THE OLD POLYSPERICAL "A" ENGINE, OR THE "LA" STYLE? IF IT'S THE POLY YOU MAY CONSIDER AN ENGINE SWAP. PERFORMANCE PARTS FOR THESE ENGINES ARE HARD TO FIND AND VERY EXPENSIVE WHEN FOUND, HOWEVER, THE FACTORY DID ISSUE A NUMBER OF DUAL 4BBL POLY 318S. CHECK OUT PERFORMANCE CHAT.THERE ARE A LOT OF 318 POWER SOLUTIONS THERE. IF YOU CHOOSE TO DO A SWAP, A BIG BLOCK WOULD BE REAL NICE.I'M BUILDING A DUAL 4BBL 383 FOR MY 73.MULTI CARBS REALLY TRIP MY TRIGGER.
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#6
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You say you have to spray ether (starting fluid) in your carb to get it started; sounds like either your choke isn't working properly or your carb may be in need of a rebuild. If the vehicle sat for a long period of time without being ran (like a few months) it may be "gumed up" inside because gasoline is a perishable substance. Over time it can break down, become stale, and eventually turn to turpentine. It's similar to storing a lawn mower for the winter without running all of the fuel out; the carb will have a heavy residue build up inside, thus preventing proper fuel and air flow through the tiny holes in it. If your car hasn't been sitting for a long period, it may be the choke. First, determine what type of carb you have, then check your local parts store for a manual on your year and make of car. The manual should tell you what type of carb you have and also how to make any adjustments. The nice thing about gasoline engines is that if your timing is relatively close, the ignition system is getting fire, and fuel/air is getting to the combustion chamber, the thing ought to run. The rest is just fine tuning.
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#7
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John,
Karl gave you some good advice, as did all the others who responded. As someone mentioned, which 318 do you have? I'm not up on the year of the change-over, so you'll have to tell us. I'm guessing it's the newer current 318 you have, which grew from the 273 and continued on up to the 340 and 360. Now that we've got that out of the way, I'm also assuming your 318 only has the 2bbl carb, as all early 318s only had a 2 bbl carb. ( I think! ) You will notice an increase in power immediatly w/ a 4bbl carb. If the engine is unmodified and you are planning just headers or other "moderate" bolt ons, go with a carb around 600 cfm. Edlebrock/Carter or a Holley will work just fine. A good universal 600 cfm Holley list # 1850 is a good consideration. They're a dime-a-dozen @ auto flea markets, but if you don't know how to rebuild them or you don't know somebody that does, go with a new one or a "known" good one from a freind, etc. You'll save yourself a lot of time and headaches if you don't try to go beyond your capabilities. As for headers on a stock motor, you have 2 choices. You can buy expensive or go for economy. I have a set of Black Jacks, ( economy) on my car. They're rusted ( surface rust only ) and they're not pretty. But, I had them installed in 1983 or 4. They are still with me! FYI, using that hi-temp paint is useless no matter what the mfgr. says. I think one of those brush-on coatings from Eastman? is the way to go or buy some with the alumnicoat already on them. You don't need expensive headers like Headman or Hookers for the street, unless you're going racing. For a stock engine, go with 1 1/2 to 1 5/8 inch tubes to a 3 inch collector. You need velocity, not volumn. Note that I don't use my car in the rain, never-mind the winter, it's stored away. I only put about 2 K miles on it a year. FYI, if you plan on a new exhaust system, duals w/ a cross over pipe is a good consideration too. For the stock motor, don't go over 2" to 2 1/4" all the way back for scavenging(velocity again)reasons. Use brand name low restriction performance mufflers too. Walker has some good ones out now. Also, most of the deterioration to the pipes is from the inside due to the condensation that developes every time you shut the engine off. The rest of the exhaust system doesn't run as hot as the headers so to make the pipes last longer you can degrease them inside and out with gunk or any other product that will disolve the preservative crap the mfgr. puts on there, followed by a cleaner such as break cleaner. If you've got a self serve car wash where they have the hand-held wand, this is a good starting point. You won't guess how many engine blocks we've "degreased" late @ night using this method! After they are clean so the paint will stick, spray them in 'n out with a name brand high-temp paint. Fire it inside from both ends 'till the mist comes out the opposite end and let it dry. Put 'em out in the sun for a few hours so they can "bake," turning once 'n a while. I've still got my whole exhaust system from '83/'84 including the Turbo mufflers, using this method. Sounds like a lot of work, but if you only want to do it once, go the extra mile now. Ya know the 'ole saying, "pay me now or pay me later!" Starting problem, don't use a rebuilt starter no matter what. Unless they've changed a lot over the years they're all junk-my experience. Same thing w/ alternators for that matter. Get a new one or a factory origional off a wreck. The rebuilts on a wreck are usually identified by the rebuilder's manufacturing tag still on them. An origional unit won't have the re-manufacture's name tag on it. Check your grounds. Someone already gave you good advice on this. My teachers in auto tech class always said, most electrical problems originate (sp?)from no grounding @ all to poor, inadaquate (SP?) grounding. Remember, no matter what you do to that 318, you're not going to move that ~ 4 thousand pound monster to quickly wo/ going to a big block of 383 cu. in. or more. My opinion, small block = 4-speed, big block, you can't beat the 727 torqueflite automatic. Don't jump into a BB swap wo/ checking into it. You'll have to change the "K" member to start, then there is the trans, gas and whatever else linkage to monkey with. Keep it simple 'till you become knowledgable, you be happier that way. Plus you'll be driving your nice '66 instead of working on it! Hope this helps, Richard ps As mentioned, check out the Performance Talk/Chat Room. There are some recent articles in there on 318s, of which I've also replied to. |
#8
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i have found that ignition timing is critical to a good start. try retarding your inital timing by 2-3 degrees. (turning the distributor a bit in the same direction as the rotor turns..)also make sure your ballast is good..the ignition depends on it for a good start.
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