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  #1  
Old 06-12-2002, 09:17 PM
gahi gahi is offline
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Default ignition help ? again

my car will run with the ignition either in the start position, or when i hot wire it with the ign. 1 and ign. 2 both hot. I've replaced the ign switch, the ballast resistor, and the coil. and no improvment. should the next step be the e.c.u. or am i missing something. thanks
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Old 06-12-2002, 09:21 PM
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1972roadrunner 1972roadrunner is offline
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thats what i would do.... at advance auto parts here they are pretty cheap...
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Old 06-12-2002, 11:12 PM
dynorad dynorad is offline
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Please describe your problem in more detail. I am pretty familiar with how the ignition system is supposed to work but I am not sure what your hot wire does.
In the start position the ballast resistor is bypassed. In the regular run position it is not bypassed. It should run either way but may damge to coil if it is run too long without the ballast.
I would be shocked if replacing the ECU would change anything.
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Old 06-13-2002, 12:18 AM
gahi gahi is offline
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when i hot wire it, I do it from the ignition switch harness. I connect the acc. ign 1, ign 2, to the bat. then connect the start terminal until it fires then it runs. i already blew up 1 coil because i drove it a few times hot wired like this. the ecu is the last thing i can think of to replace. unless there it a broken wire or short somewhere in the ign 1 system. ign 1 is the regular operating system so when i disconnect the terminal at the ign switch it will remain runnig on ign2. but when i disconnect ign2 it shuts down.
thanks for the replies. hope i can get this figured out befor the ratfink show in wendover, utah.
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  #5  
Old 06-13-2002, 01:02 AM
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ehostler ehostler is offline
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Either you replaced the ballast resistor with another faulty one or ign 1 is bad. Pull ign 1 from the ballast and hook a voltmeter to it and then turn the key to ON/RUN, you should get 12 volts. If you don't have a voltmeter, you can make a simple test light out of a normal automotive bulb and a couple of pieces of wire. One opiece of wire connects from the outer metal of the bulb to a ground. The other piece of wire goes from ign 1 to the metal on the bottom of the bulb. With the key in the ON/RUN position, the bulb should light up.

The ECU will not cause this type of a problem.
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Old 06-13-2002, 07:19 PM
gahi gahi is offline
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could it be the alternator regulator. do I even need this in the system or should i take it out. the wires all seem to be in good condition. so i am really stuck. thanks
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Old 06-13-2002, 07:42 PM
72Challenger 72Challenger is offline
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If you take out the regulator, depending on how you wire it you will either never charge and kill your battery in no time, or you will always be at full charge, and will kill your battery in no time. Your choice.

Do what ehostler said, measure the voltage at the wire. It's the only right way.
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Old 06-13-2002, 10:52 PM
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ehostler ehostler is offline
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Yes, you need the voltage regulator. Don't take it out of the circuit.

I have found old wires that look good, but are broken inside of the insulator. Your problem could also be at the bulkhead connector. Sometimes the connections get corroded. If you've pulled the connectors off and put them back on, one of the contacts may have come loose and was pushed into the connector.

Use a voltmeter or a test light and confirm that ign 1 is getting voltage.
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