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#1
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installing the intake and carb
alright guys, the intake is already here, the carb (600 edelbrock electric), chrysler throttle adapter, and pro-flo airpan are going to be here by thursday.
As far as it all goes, is there anything special i need to know before installing it all? also, i don't know if the intake has it, but is there any way to check/remove any of that EGR crap? |
#2
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Well, one thing I would say would be to make sure you glue the intake gasket to the cylinder heads. I was posting to someone on another site, that put pictures up of his engine after taking a Air-Gap manifold off of his 360, and the gasket was all messed up and torn. Found out that he didn't use anything to hold the gasket down, just silicone around the water ports. So, just make sure you use a Gasketsinch type stuff and stick the gasket onto the head so it wont move around!
And you will need a little tuning time on the carb....always seems that initial setting on the Edelbrock carbs is never consistent, and some take minor tweeking when you install it, and others take a bit more. Roger |
#3
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Gasketsinch, I used it on the Cuda. Works well. Good stuff.
Test fit all the bolts. Why? to make sure theres no tight spots. You want a good torque reading. Clean the threads out, run a tap or beter yet a thread chaser. I test fit the intake, look around and then run the bolts. Make sure of the sequence, double check, tighten evenly. Take your time and it'll be a snap. |
#4
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The above are all great sugestions. I tighten the intake in a cross patern like an x. I would alternate sides in an x pattern until all are installed. I think I tightened to 40 ft-lbs? Whatever it was it was the factory recommended torque. I did it in two steps: torque to 20ish on all 8 anthe torque to 40 on all 8. Remember to install all of the brackets and ground straps that use the intake bolts while your torquing. Trust me, it really sucks when you get the intake torques to spec and you forgot to install the throttle cable bracket...
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#5
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I did the same swap on my 318 1n my 69 Valiant, and the throttle cable never seemed to fit right in the cable bracket (and yes Iam useing the cable adapter for Chrysler)
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#6
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frederick_76, were you swapping from a 2 barrel? If so, that's why your cable didn't line up. You need a cable bracket from a 4 barrel application. They're totally different.
MoJoe |
#7
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wait--i need a cable bracket from a 4bbl? whats that? --anyone want to describe it so i can look for it in the junkyard?
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#8
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The 2 bbl. cable braket can work. It's not perfect, but it works. I did it in my Magnum. Also used the 2bbl. Tranny kickdown lever. Instead of droping money on the adjustable 4bbl. Unit. I just used a nut and bolt to re-adjust the position of the rod on the carb for proper kick down.
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#9
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You need a similar donor model car as the one you are replacing the manifold on, one that is a four barrel setup. The 4 barrel throttle linkage is higher, and you need the transmission kickdown linkage also. I heard horror stories about people that hooked up the throttle with the 2 barrel linkage and drove it around until they could get a 4 barrel setup for the tranny and fried a good transmission out.
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#10
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I never thought of that, I saw one on a truck about a year ago in a Junck yard, I'll have to rember to look for one next time, Thanks!!
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#11
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--i called the people over at summit racing about it, they said that there is nothing reported as being needed for the switch over for my model of car going from a 2bbl to a 4bbl besides the throttle adapter. They said worse comes to worse, if its too short, a home modification would have to be done, they don't carry anything that would do teh trick.
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#12
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linkage
AceVeres, you shouldn't have a problem with the swap. i went from a 2bbl to a 4 and actually with the same carb (manual choke though) and it was a snap... if you orderd the linkage adapter for the carb then you'll have to lengthen the kick down slide. Not a big deal, you can do it in 5 minutes... all you need is a little peice of steel or aluminum thats the same size and bolt it together. Too bad its so dark out right now or I would go snap a pic for you to get an idea from. I'll have to do it this weekend for ya.
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#13
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one bad thing i found out-- i got all the stuff in, took it out of the box to fit it all together, the eletric choke hits the air pan on one side (funny, both are edelbrock products) anyway, i think ill just take a ballpin hammer to the bottom tof the airpan in one place and dent it in just a bit, anything bad about doing this? or anyone have any better suggetions, or even advice on "modifing" the airpan with the hammer?
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#14
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at the front and back of my 340 there were little pins in the block where the front/back of the intake manifold are. if you have a small block, i would check to see if you have these pins. the reason is that the edelbrock manifold i bought didnt have the matching holes. so yours probably wont either. i guess you could just take the pins out, or you could drill the manifold.
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#15
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ill be sure to check it out today after work to make sure the bolt holes line up on both, i remember someone said (or maye it said in the instal guide) that there are some pins that need to be removed from the block before installing the intake.
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#16
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On the surface of where the intake sits on the block, there are little pins that may interfear with the intake sitting right.
Use pliers to remove. Easy job. |
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