oil pan problem

[10sec340]

had a nice hamburg pan on my 340,but my new 2" headers made me switch to a milldon pan
now i can't get it to stop leaking out the back seal!
anybody else have this problem?
also,which way does the rubber seals go,one side is angled the other straight,angled side into the pan or out of it?

[bbeckwith]

Hi 10sec340

Im at work now so I dont remember which way the seals go but I will check when I get home and post for you. I also have a Milodon pan, but havent put it in yet. Have heard that some dont clear the oil pump adequately and some hammering on the pan is required. Did you experience this prob? Make sure your rear main oil seal is not leaking. My 340 has 6k on it and the rear seal leaks some on WOT bursts, but very little just normal driving. Plan on pulling motor at some point and replacing seal. Good luck

Bruce

[bbeckwith]

Hey 10sec,

I came home for lunch and am looking at my FEL PRO gasket set #1806 right now. The gasket end seals have a small nipple on one side and a larger one on the other so they can only go in one way. I'm Looking at the pan right now, the side of the seal with a little more material, (as you look down on it, goes to the inside of the pan.

Hope this helps more than confuses.

Bruce

[10sec340]

thanks,
there was no problem fitting the pan,just this dam leak in the rear rubber seal.i'll be trying again this weekend
also,it's not the main seal,thank god!!!!
Tim

[rumblefish360]

I just did the pan on my 360. Just keep it clean, clean, clean. Tighten the bolts evenly and snug. Theres a torque setting, I just don't remember it now. You'll get it.

[cuda66273]

My Milodon pan also drips alittle, but so did the stock pan....I guess if they don't leak there's no oil in 'em.

[10sec340]

silicon on rubber end seals?yes or no?
tim

[bbeckwith]

as to using silicone, I say no simply because I tried to install immediately after using rtv without letting rtv cure, and with motor in car, and limited clearance, the gaskets kept getting twisted up before I could get the pan in the correct position to bolt up. Maybe with your car it wouldnt be as awkward to position and you wouldnt have the difficulties I had.
Anyone else?
I did glue the side rail gaskets down with the spray stuff, this worked well.

Bruce

[pishta]

good call on glueing the side gaskets on. I used gaskacinch on those and the front and rear has nipples that held them in the pan. the lip will go inside the pan if there is one. the ones I used had 2 lips, so it straddled the pan. I had a rough time getting those to stay in place. I finally got the pan up in there and then slid the gaskets into place. I had to fight the K and the transmission on both ends to get the pan close enough to get the gaskets into place. I believe the torque would be about 20 ft/lbs on those wimpy bolts. might want to hammer the rails flat before you do any of this stuff on a used pan.

[AAR4fun]

I've built a number of sb mopar and have always had problems with oil leaks from the rear.

Just finished one with a custom made drag pan from Charlie's. You know the rear sump kind with the drag link tunnel. Very fun for taking the engine out and back in.

Well, same delima with the oil leak. I did figure out if you don't drive it, it doesn't leak. If you cover the car you don't think about it as much.

Unfortunately, I will have to pull the engine to find and resolve the problem. Most problems in the past have been related to the main seal leading.

Let me know if you find the cure...

[bbeckwith]

I did get a replacement rear oil seal for the 340, but have yet to tackle putting it in. The dealer says you can replace it with the motor still in car, but seems so awkward on my back when working, I will wait till I pull motor to repaint engine compartment and do it while it's on the stand, at least thats the plan.....

Bruce