Stroker kits for a 383?

[Superman99]

I just heard about stroker kits for the 383 and i heard there was one made by muscle motors at 431ci. but i couldnt find it on there site. However i found a 484 stroker kit that uses a mopar performance crank and other standard parts. This sounds very cool to me and i am defintely interested in trying to do this. Has anyone else done this? Or can give me any other advice on this
Thanks
Paul

[John Kunkel]

Take another look at their site and read the 451 stroker description, the 431 is the same thing using a 383 block instead of a 400.
The 431 is merely an RB crank with the mains turned down to fit a 383 B block. The crank and rods can be production pieces so the only aftermarket part is the pistons. This setup is popular enough that many piston makers will have the stroker pistons on the shelf.
No need to buy a kit at inflated prices, your local machine shop can do the needed work.

[71383bee]

All you really need is a 440 crank and a good machine shop.

[Superman99]

so a 440 crank is all i need plus the usual rebuild parts for a 383? Also has anyone heard about this 484 stroker? That is huge and i didnt even know that it would be possible with a 383. I think i saw it on flatlanders racing or something like that.
Thanks

[Fast One]

Sounds like a 4.15 stroke crank.

4.25 inch bore + 0.060 = 4.31 divided by 2 = 2.155 to the power of 2 = 4.644025 X 3.1416 = 14.58966894 X 4.15 = 60.5471261 X 8 = 484.377 cubic inches

Would be an awesome torque engine but the pistons would be the size of Hockey pucks I'd say, maybe the 431 could be a more reliable street high mile daily user engine.

But what would I know, haven't built a big block for myself yet.

I have a 383 & a 440 steel crank meself, still pondering what combination to come up with, the 484 sounds very tempting though.

Considered using Chevy big block rods too with the smaller journals to off set grind, think the ci comes out to 450 ci with a 0.060 overbore.

[Superman99]

I dont think i will be attempting this very soon, just developing ideas right now. So lets see if i am getting this, can i take a rebuild kit for the 383 with .060 overbore pistons and add a 4.15 crank and new connecting rods? and this would be around a 484?
How hard is this to do compared with a regular complete rebuild? Is this combo safe and reliable? This will be a street car and driven on a regular basis so does a stroker motor have any disadvantages for this use?
Thanks

[Doug Wilson]

You would have to get custom stroker pistons. The pin centerline to the piston top needs to be longer than a stock stroke piston. If you used the standard rebuild pistons you would drastically reduce your compression ratio - maybe as low as 5 or 6 to 1 - great for a blower motor, but not so great naturally aspirated!!

[Doug Wilson]

Sorry - I wrote that all backwards. Dyslexia strikes its' ugly blow. Shorter pistons, not taller.

[Superman99]

Ok so then the only parts that are not normal 383 parts are the pistons, the crank, and the connecting rods? All how reliable is this engine and is it good for street use?
Thanks

[Doug Wilson]

Good for street use. Reliabilty is a function of your right foot. Should be as reliable as a normal performance overhaul.

[Superman99]

Ok cool so if i am going to do a complete rebuild it cant hurt to stroke it then i guess. Besides the overbore is anyother machine work required?
Thanks for all the great advice
Paul

[turbotim23]

I researched this a 431 is a 383 with 440 steel crank and stroker pistons.I decided not worth it as you could make a 451 for not much more. [400 block 440 crank & stroker pistons].Machining and balancing costs so get your moneys worth! 484[believe 400 block ,offset grind 440 crank,special rod size stroker pistons] is maybe more than you need on the street.

[72Challenger]

You need to clearance the block if you're using a stroker crank. This is something the machine shop can do as well.

[todd440]

I stock the 383 stroker pistons. They are Diamond flat tops, .990 pin, uses stock length rod, and the 440 crank. Yes, you can get more cubes by using a 400 block, but so many of us have 383's. Why not use the block you already have.

[Superman99]

todd exactly what i was thinking. I dont want to get rid of 383. The 484 is possible with the 383 from what i have seen. Any idea how much it would cost for all the parts? If someone could list the parts and prices that would be great thanks

[todd440]

Going to the 4.15 stroke is a big chunk of change. 800 for the crank, 600 in rods, 530 in pistons, 100 in rings, 130 in bearings, the list goes on. The piston compression distance is so short, it should be only considered for a full race engine. Oil support rails will be needed. The other side of the coin is the more extensive block work needed. Much heavier block notching for the crank, not to mention you have to take that brand new crank and have the mains turned down to fit the 383 main bores. The oil pick-up need to be modified most of the time. As a rule of thumb, the 4.15 stroke crank is for the 440 block. With a low deck block, try to stay under 3.90 stroke.
Now back to the 431, all you need is a steel 440 crank( even cast will work, but harder to balance) turn the mains down to fit the 383/400 main size, a little work on the counterweights, and slight block clearancing. You should be able to get all the crank work done for about $300, not including balancing.

[dynorad]

I just wanted to point out that with the 451/431 you can use stock rods. 440 rods will give the lowest piston weight.
I've seen the 4.15 stroke crank with small journals advertised at the same price as the normal journal size so you should not need to pay extra for that.

[Superman99]

So the 484 wouldnt work as a good street engine? If that is the case i guess i will have to consider doing the 431 deal. Maybe i will step up to the 400 but for now i am keeping my 383.
Thanks for all the great info
Paul

[71383bee]

Forgive me if I sound like an old timer, but I think that your jumping the gun a bit here. On previous posts all you wanted to do was re do your rings and drive the car. Now your talking about stroking it out with an 0.060 overbore. I am sorry but a well built non stroked 383 can put down a ton of power and be extremely streetable. I am not trying to nock down the idea of a stroked 383, in fact I just picked up a decent running 400 just for that purpose. The 383 I have is what I would consider a medium performance build. It is an excellent street engine and has a ton of grunt. It is a blast to drive and I know that there is more to go in choices of cam, intake, and rockers. I guess my point is to build your 383 and find out the potential that lies within. If you feel you have explored all of the posibilities then go a step further. In my opinion a 0.060 overbore on a 383 in such a heavy car is just asking for cooling issues. I know you may have heard this before, but the facts are that you have a heavy car that is designed for comfort. The C body's have rubber bushings between the frames to soften the ride. This is great for cross country road trips and terrible for transmitting torque. A built 383 or stroker motor will make a noticeable difference in the car's performance, but the same motor in a B or E body will really make a difference. If you want your C-body to be able to cruise around town, beat up a few ricers, and still be able to drive to the Mopar Nats in Ohio if you want to, a mildly built 383 with an 0.030 overbore and a set of 3.23:1 gears may be all that you need.

For what it's worth...it's just my opinion.

[Superman99]

I am sorry, maybe i didnt make my intentions clear. Right now i am just gathering info from all of the experts that are here, the info you all have provided is great. I think for now i am only going to do some small work but i want to be able to leave myself open to doing something wild in the future. I dont want to build something and then have no way of changing unless i go with a whole new block. I would just like to be able to leave my options open. So i am sorry if i made it sound like i was just jumping into all of this. I greatly appreciate all your help.
Thanks
Paul