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#1
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I need susp. help, PLEASE!
I am redoing the front suspension of my '70 Cuda, should I replace just the bushings, or the seals or should I get new parts (i.e. ball joints,tie rods etc.) And if I go with the whole kit-N-kaboddle, from where should I purchase them? Is P-S-T form NJ. a good place? Their prices seem good? Anyone have a suggestion?
Thank you! |
#2
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Where to Start
If you want to restore stock factory performance make a close visual inspection of your suspension components and replace what needs it. If you are not comfortable assessing the condition take it to your favorite mechanic and have him look it over, then swap out the worn parts. That is the way I handled my '73 Challenger.
If you want to upgrade the handling performance replace your stock bushings with polyurethane, but don't stop with the front suspension in this case. How close do you live to Carlisle? Tha All-Chrysler show was last weekend, lots of venders and advice! |
#3
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Just Suspension makes some real good front end rebuild kits. I would go with poly-graphite, for the bushings.
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#4
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I used the PST poly-graphite kit.
If you can do the work yourself it dosen't cost too much and it really is not that hard "if" you have the correct tools. Basic tools needed are a tie-rod/ball joint seperator, a big hammer, the special upper ball joint socket (Year one had good prices on these), a impact wrench for the upper ball joint socket (a long breaker bar may work if the ball joint is not too tight), and a press to press out the bushings (I got a cheap $100 12-ton press from Harbor Freight tools that woked fine for this.) The bad part of the PST kit is they did not include much for instructions, so you may need to refer to a service manual. Also, the urathane kit re-uses the original outer shell of the lower control arm, so you may have to burn out the old rubber from the original bushing? |
#5
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To get around the upper ball joint socket situation - just weld a nut to the top of it - since you are replacing it anyway, who cares. Saves you the money of the "special tool". You will need the impact though, as if it's in their pretty good (rusted - pretty good chance) a breaker bar will only bend the upper arm. Some heat applied via torch should loosen it for the impact.
I used the PST kit and it worked good. Very easy to do this upgrade. I would suggest dropping the entire front suspension via K-member and work out on the floor in the open. |
#6
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Last year my Doba was treated to a complete change-over to Polyurathane, ball joints(Moog...guaranteed for life), tie rods, everything. I had the same choice as to whether make all new or keep the good and replace the rest. My thinking is their are many components down there and its a better idea to get everything working together at 100% new for a complete life cycle for all parts. Its a real pain changing or fixing that stuff and better do it now rather than at seperate times.
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#7
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by Mills
[B]To get around the upper ball joint socket situation - just weld a nut to the top of it - since you are replacing it anyway, who cares. Saves you the money of the "special tool". You will need the impact though, as if it's in their pretty good (rusted - pretty good chance) a breaker bar will only bend the upper arm. Some heat applied via torch should loosen it for the impact. Now this is the kind of stuff I like to see. That tip was top notch. |
#8
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The only problem with mills suggestion, is you may not have a welder ($30 for the socket is cheaper than $500 for a welder), and you still need the socket to install the new ball joint.
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#9
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I install a complete front & back PST polygraphite suspension last year and I'm very happy with it.
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#10
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I did the lower control arms on my 'cuda using pst polygraghite bushings. I used a friends press to push the shaft out then a big screw driver to get the rubber out of the case. It was real easy and a lot less messy with out melting the rubber.
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