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  #1  
Old 08-04-2002, 11:18 PM
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5th_Ave_Sleeper 5th_Ave_Sleeper is offline
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Help I I I hhhhavvee a a a wwwheel hop p p pr o blem m m

How can I keep my rear end from shaking out of my car?!
when a gas on it (I can break loose my 275/60-15 at will) the tires start hopping really hard! so I have to le off the load pedal to keep the axle from passing me!
Would a pinon snubber help? What about traction bars?
The springs are soft cause I took a leaf out to get it to sit a bit lower. It has brand new shocks on it. should I put a second set of shocks on it going straight up?
This car would be scary fast if I could get it to hook up!
Remember I am the one that put the springs on top of the (van)axle
any help will be put to good use!
5th
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  #2  
Old 08-04-2002, 11:21 PM
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extend your fenders like dually flares, then put your leafs back on the bottom of the axle, and replace the spring you took out... hehe, that would be one weird lookin 5th!! HAHAHA!
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  #3  
Old 08-04-2002, 11:29 PM
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Unhappy geeese

Another seemingly useless reply from 1972 Roadrunner
no offence intended
5th
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  #4  
Old 08-04-2002, 11:31 PM
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another DUMB thing done bye 5th_Ave_Sleeper

hehehe, no offense, just messin...
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  #5  
Old 08-04-2002, 11:49 PM
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Got some axle wind up eh? You might want to try some spring clamps on the front half of the leaf springs. With it beig a van axle with the springs on top, I think that eliminates traction bars. Rancho made a leaf link kinda deal that I have on my 74 truck that works very well. I don't know if they still make them though. A pinion snubber would probably help if it will fit. What axle is it? Also, just curious, why did you use this anyway?
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  #6  
Old 08-04-2002, 11:55 PM
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i THINK he did that cause his tires were too wide for his fender wells....SOO... he put the springs on top of the axles so he wouldn't have to use airshocks...it also looks pretty cool!



oh yeah, there is a silver thing behind the car (on the drivers side) that at first looked like a big ass fart can...turns out, it's a bumper that is just sitting there... his driveshaft is also on the ground...(thats what it looks like)

5th: if i'm wrong, please correct me... course, i don't know why i said that, i'm sure you enjoy correcting me heh heh...
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Old 08-05-2002, 12:13 AM
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Wow! Even when you get the springs stiffened up, I don't think you're going to get enough weight transfer to plant the rear wheels.
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  #8  
Old 08-05-2002, 02:11 AM
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Question Wheel Hop?

Replace the leaf or better yet cut the rear half of the removed leaf off just past the mounting pad and replace it. Clamp the front of the leafs together in three places and check your pinion angle and be sure it is 5 to 7 degrees down nose. If you don't have the right angle, shim with shims from NAPA. Let me know how it turns out. With your exaggerated rear geometry you have, you will have to over correct for the leverage of the rear alignment.

Just think out loud.

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  #9  
Old 08-05-2002, 02:17 AM
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heres his beautiful 360...he did a great job



heres the mess before he got to it...



what do ya think?
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  #10  
Old 08-05-2002, 07:10 AM
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Idea

Mopar also made a "kicker shock" for trucks and off road use. It is a horizontally mounted shock. It goes from the axle to roughly the front spring mount. That might help. Also another thing is one shock mounted in front of the axle and one behind it? They should be as that will also help dampen the twisting of the axle. Maybe get heavy duty springs so you can lower the car a little. AStiffer so it will be less likely to rub the tires. On the Kicker shock, Mopar action put one on a Dart? and said it helped the wheel hop problem.
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  #11  
Old 08-05-2002, 08:47 AM
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WWWHHEEELLL HHHHOOOOOPPPPPPP is caused by the springs winding up and unloading...very typical in a Chebby.

If thats a real pic of your car, you need to start over....

The car needs to have no more than 3* of forward rake, front springs need to be clamped, XHD shocks, 5-7* of pinion angle, FULL spring pack, cut the clamps off the rear of the spring pack and it'll hook and you'll end up old with a full set of teeth.

You can also add 90/10 front shocks and in my opinion forget the snubber, it's really for stick cars and the way automatics load up the rear end it'll never touch no matter how close you put it to the frame.

Nice job on the motor...looks great.

...and both of you....stop sounding like BowTie babies.....remember we are Moparian Brothers here.
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  #12  
Old 08-05-2002, 08:49 AM
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Now say your sorry shake hands and lets go play...
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  #13  
Old 08-05-2002, 09:00 AM
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:shock: hold on there!

that side view of the 5th was before I took a leaf out. It sits about 3" lower now.
I made a custom length/angled pinon snubber at work last night(hope the boss doesnt read this ) WOW! what a difference!
The tires stay planted to the ground a little better now. Still needs some work.
Tarrbabe,what are these spring clamps you speak of? I thought the pinon angle was supposed to match the drive shaft angle? maybee I am thinking of 4X4's
What about sanwiching the front leafs with some 1/4 X 3" plate steel? or would the 3 clamps serve the same purpose?
What about those things that J.C. Whitney sells? the "anti-wrap-up" traction type thingys? they clamp to the top front leafs to stop axle wrap?
just thinkin out loud here too!
1972 RR has the first pics of my car. I will go take a few of the "revised suspension" and post them later.
Thanks for all the comments! Keep em' comin! you guys are a great help!!!
5th
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  #14  
Old 08-05-2002, 09:05 AM
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sorry 72 rr
Cuda66273, He knows I'm pokin fun at him
5th
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  #15  
Old 08-05-2002, 09:44 AM
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Biggrin The revised suspension photo

here is the "tamer" rear suspension. I used the van rear cause it had the gears that I wanted, and it was free
I am still activley looking for a Dipcop rear to replace the van rear so it can be a true "sleeper"
5th
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  #16  
Old 08-05-2002, 10:56 AM
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OK, at the risk of what this sounds like....I told you so.

The spring clamps are rectangle pieces of metal. 1 on top of the spring, 1 on the bottom. There held in place via nut and bolt. There purpose is to stiffen the front of the spring to stop wind up of the spring.
You can also cut them off the rear half of the spring to a small gain.
On the rear, you might get quicker results by getting or re-useing the pearchs and mounting them correctly. This will bring it all back in order.
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  #17  
Old 08-05-2002, 12:44 PM
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they're right...sorry man just pokin fun...
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  #18  
Old 08-05-2002, 01:28 PM
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I think you need to decide whether you are looking for max visual impact or the best possible performance.

For the street, cars that are raked forward are not good. Tire sizes should be the same all around and wheels should have identical width and offset all the way around.

The more you vary from those conditions, the less safe the car will be on the street.
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  #19  
Old 08-05-2002, 02:04 PM
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now we know why there lowering cars!!!!
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  #20  
Old 08-05-2002, 02:08 PM
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nice engine though.
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  #21  
Old 08-05-2002, 07:32 PM
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proud of you ///// you did what i only talked about .in mopar muscle there is a 5th the guy used police car part,s .as you knowthe dodge diplomat ,is the same car. they were used by gvt. police .and a bunch of fed.s a possably source of part,s you might look for . also a spring and axel shop might be able to help . your veh. sure looks nice
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  #22  
Old 08-05-2002, 10:13 PM
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5th Ave. What kind of rear did you use from a van? I am having a hard time finding anything bigger than a 7 1/4 rear and I was told that a truck or van rear end would not work without allot of work that would cost more than a direct replacement 8 1/4 suregrip would.
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  #23  
Old 08-05-2002, 11:11 PM
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Smile rear end

Bigfoot, The rear came out of a 77Dodge van. It is an 8.25". Yes it is a bit long and I had to weld new spring perches on it to fit to the car's spring width.
The van was a half ton with a /6 and a 3sp/OD so the gears in the rear are 3.55:1 open diff unfortunatly.
Rumblefish360, I know, I know, but hey, its just temporary
5th
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  #24  
Old 08-06-2002, 01:04 AM
5thAve 5thAve is offline
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Yep that looks strage with the big rear. Is it both sides that have the problem or just the one? Maybe you could try putting a helper on the one side, that is if one does it more... With the proper # of leafs the problem should go away.

I like AC so my 360 is buried.
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  #25  
Old 08-06-2002, 01:06 AM
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DOH.. it won't let me edit my post to add a picture, and won't let me delete it to replace it
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  #26  
Old 08-06-2002, 01:07 AM
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A/C?? bah!! who needs A/C? maybe old geezers, but i don't! the only "A/C" i need it 295!! 2 winders down, 95 MPH! hehe, no, it's actually around 240.... i do mainly in-town driving due to rear gears and the devil...(gas mileage!!).
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  #27  
Old 08-06-2002, 01:08 AM
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5thAve: wheres the motor??


HAHAHAHA!
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  #28  
Old 08-06-2002, 01:20 AM
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When it's 95+ outside AC is what I be lookin for. Just like when it's -40 out I need heat!!

I can stand cold weather more then I can stand hot.
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  #29  
Old 08-06-2002, 01:24 AM
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i can understand the need for a heater...but A/C?? just robs power IMO.... don't sit around for too long, and there shouldn't be much of a problem..

i've got black interior...and i don't have a problem as long as my windows are down, and i'm moving/or there is a breeze... in my brothers car....well, thats a different story... black exterior and interior...yeah, a little hot but as long as your moving, its bearable...

actually, i'm about ready to put a little 12V electric fan in my car...someplace out of the way but where it'll move air around in my car for long, annoying lights...

just pokin fun...
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  #30  
Old 08-06-2002, 01:27 AM
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"Old Geezer!"

Hey!! I resemble that remark..oh wait...no I'm an Old Fart.....OK carry on .....
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