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#1
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torque converter swap
first off, I'm running a `78 318 with an `82 or so 727 non lock up. The engine is slightly modified, 212/212@50 dur. w/440 lift an edelbrock performer and a 4bbl holley 650. The tranny was rebuilt with an atp kit and a b and m shift kit, the transkit I think. My question is, the car just started yesterday, is if my converter is failing. If I sit still in N or P I am running about 700-800 rpm's, if I sit in gear it drops right down to around 250 and somtimes stalls while sitting at a light. Is this the torque converter and if so, I'm lloking at a B/M 1900-2100 rated converter, what will I have to do to use that converter in my car, and what sort of things do I need to know to order one, are there different splines for the converters, how many different sized ring gears are there, are thee any better brands at a reasonable price? sorry for the lenghty post.
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#2
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I do not believe that a torque converter would do what you are saying it is doing.. If the tranny was just rebuilt, I would go back and check the band adjustments. The adjustment stud should be torqued to 72 inlbs (both of them) and then for the kickdown band (front one, or the one you can get to from the outside of the case) backed off two and a half turns. The rear band (one adjusted from the inside after removing the pan) is backed off two turns.
I would check those two before digging further into the tranny. Jim |
#3
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Large idle drop
First I would check the carb tune to be sure it was correct. You can get the adjustments from someone on this site.
Then let me say that the t. c. can do that. I have even heard of t.c.'s that would kill the engine when put into gear. If the t.c. don't work, it's just like dropping the clutch at idle with a stick. Just thinking out loud again. Think I'll have a beer. |
#4
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A torque converter with a faulty stator overrunning clutch can bog the motor down when in gear but it usually doesn't happen gradually, it kills the motor as soon as it's placed in gear.
When the engine starts to idle down and die, try braking with your left foot and raising the engine rpm's slightly. If adding a little throttle will prevent the motor from dying, the problem is more likely related to the motor. (Vacuum leak, carb, etc.) |
#5
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braking and carb adjust
Well, I raised my idle to 800-850 in N or P and now in gear it drops right down to 500-600. I tried braking and givving it a little gas and it heasitates, if I give it enough, I can keep it running, and I can power brake to about 1800 before it holds steady. I'm going to change my stall converter anyway, but with B and M they don't list anything about the chrysler 727 for the torker 2000 that is except that if it's used with an externally balanced engine it need a b and M flexplate. I believe 318's are externally balanced, but I could be wrong. I know with TCI's they offer weights to put on the converters and I know my converter had weights on it, can anyone tell me what I need to sucessfully install this converter?
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#6
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My book says 318's had neutral or internal balancing as oppossed to detroit or external balancing.
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#7
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You might wanna choose your converter carefully, I'm no expert by far on trans or converters, but I have lots of buddies and there buddies to learn from there mistakes, when choosing a certin brand of converter, depending on your driving habits, motor hp and torq, has alot to do with how long a converter will last.. so I suggest asking these guy in here for some feed back , I'm having one built for my car, talked to lots of people they said, thats the way to go.. buy ones from assembly line, they wont last (i've been told), few friends went through converters rather quick..... hate to metion any certin brands, dont wana tick anybody off.... but , most of the guys in here wont mind telling you the brands, what they hate about it, who the salesman was, how they cramed the product down the factory reps throat......lmao!!!! no, I'm kidding (no I'm not!!) pretty honest feedback is all....
oh and as far as installing the conv... slide the old one out, slide new one in, just make sure you push it in as far as it will go , so it engages the pump.... I would get a manual so you have references to torque specs, and installing trans ect... coolcarz |
#8
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Thanks alot coolcarz, my main concern was whether the converter would be balanced accordingly, I know that B&M says to use their converters with an extenally balancd engine you must use their flex plate, I'm not sure if 318's fall into this category or if my engine doesn't need this flex plate if it will hurt if I use it anyway.
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#9
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Why would you want to back a MOPAR engine, with a B&M converter?? I've never heard anything good about the B&M products, behind a MOPAR.
Check out Dynamic Converters. MOPAR Muscle just did an article about their converters. They sound like a very good product, that will put any B&M converter to shame. If you want to request a specific stall speed, that's what they will sell you, otherwise, they will want engine, tranny, and rear info, as well has the driving habits it will see, so that they can get you a really good match on the stall speed. |
#10
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78 318
As I recall, my 78 318 was a cast crank and internally balanced so no balance plate is needed.
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#11
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your hesitation could more than likely be caused by the weights you say are on your current converter... i had the wrong converter that had weights on my 340, and when i stuck it to the floor i got really bad detonation... changed the converter to a TCI Streetfighter, problem solved... now, when i put it to the floor i've gotta hold on to my hat and hope the back of my seat don't break off!!
good luck! |
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