R12 to R134a conversion kit??

[Dr. Righteous]

Got the Ramcharger back from the AC shop. No good new.
They said the compressor, dryer, H Block, and O rings are bad. The whole job would cost $650 with putting R12 back in it.

Hmm,
Well then if it needs all that why not just convert it over to R134a I suggested.
He told me you CAN'T on a vehicle like that.
('85 Ramcharger)
I know it is probably BS and he is telling me what is good for him.
Do they make a kit where you can convert all the compoents needed to run R134a?

[rumblefish360]

I was JUST looking at a conversion kit in AutoZone for $34.99. Said everything was included to do the change over.
Oil is the most important issue. The new freon is slightly different and will have a problem with the old oil. The kit provides all that is needed.
Want me to check it out and see whats , waht in the kit?
AutoZone is walking distance.

[Dr. Righteous]

That would be great!

I really need AC for a trip over the Labor Day weekend. I need to go to Florida and I will be pulling a '68 Coronet R/T back on a trailer. It is hot as all heck down there.
I'm getting a sunburn just thinking about it.

[skyhawg]

Yes you should be able to swap over... As was stated, the biggest difference is in the oil, but all that is included in a conversion kit.. Wal-mart also sells this... The other difference will be in the service ports, they will be different from R-12 to R-134, but you can also get adapters for that.. which also come with many of the kits.. The other thing that should really be changed (has to I believe) is the reciever-dryer, but this shouldnt cost much. Get a new one for the 134...
And its not all that hot down here... low 90's or it could just be I'm kinda used to it...
Besides.. you will probably be coming down 10... just roll down the windows..
Jim

[dhochsprung]

I had the AC converted on my 92 Dodge Van at a Dodge dealership. It only cost about $150 and work great.

[5thAve]

The o-rings and gaskets also.

Get a 2nd opinion. There is probably less on that list then you really need. The ford has to go in sometime to get it's ac fixed. At least it already is 134.

[tlh101]

I have been told that on some models prior to '93 that the passages in the condenser are too small for 134 to work well. I have heard this from a couple of different sources. It will not be as cool, and takes longer to cool down, so they say .

[6 packin]

I would not let that guy touch my truck with a 10 foot screwdriver! There will be no problem converting it over! And if the system is not working get you a manual! Most people are scared of AC systems. but really simple when it has be explaned! Also I know the ones I have converted to the new stuff required a new expansion valve! This orfice seperates yor High pressure side and low pressure vapor!

[Dr. Righteous]

Well, at this point I really don't have anything to lose. I picked up the $34 kit at Auto Zone and tried it. I put 3 cans in and checked the cab to see if it was getting cool. Low and behold it was! GREAT, I climbed in to bask in the glory that is AC.
I got out to check for leaks. Yep, Had a hose that was full of holes. I drove around town and found a AutoZone that had the hose assembly in stock. $60 bux! I picked up 3 more cans of freon to try this again after I replace the hose. So far it looks like this will work.

[pishta]

I didnt even know you could recharge with R-12 anymore. I was told the 134 needed 75% of the old capacity and all o-rings changed out. Im glad it worked out. I hate hearing people getting worked over an easy job $$$!

[LA360Dart]

Hi Dr Righteous;


The only thing that i'm aware of is that the oil from the old R-12 freon will not mix with the new, the old oil needs to be removed completely, if not the oil might collect in the reciever/dryer and cause intermintent problems if not done.
Also the so long as the system cycles the compressor to control evaporation and pressure should work fine, only systems with orific's and thermal switches pose a minor problem that can be fixed easily.


Denny

[Tarrbabe]

I don't remember the year of the change but when they changed to 134, they started putting a liner inside the rubber hoses. The 134 will eat the old style hoses. If you changed both of them the new ones should be okay as they supposely added it to the replacement hoses. The dryer, the little canister, is about 10 bucks. Just replaced the one on my 91 Dak. I have charged with 134 and am having some minor problems with cooling. The guy that does my charging says I may have to change the expansion valve, the shiny block on the dash, he thinks it may be partialy blocked. Also apparently, Dodge added a AC interupt when you are at WOT. I hate that as I have a 2.5 liter and to get up hills I have to mash the gas.
Cheers!

[Dr. Righteous]

Yeah, I was considering changing the other hose and dryer too.
The system started cooling even whithout a full charge of freon. I would guess with everything in good shape it would be reliable.
The other hose assembly is $100 and the dryer is $19.
I guess it is still cheaper than the $650 the AC shop quoted me.

[rumblefish360]

Dr. Righteous

WOW! People reallllly jumped in on this one. I feel late. The kit said everything included. But you already know this since you have the kit I seen. I was thinking about this kit for the '86-442.
I'm qualified on A/C systems through my company. But I lack the class for car systems. (I can't believe I bombed class 1, low pressure! At least I can work on train A/C systems or large buildings. )

[Dr. Righteous]

Well, I decided if I was going to attempt this I better go about it right.
I bit the bullet and changed out both hose assemblys and the accumulator. Bolted it all together and added the freon and oil.
It seems to be working pretty well. The real test is the trip to Florida. Now it was the heat of the day, and the cab of the Ramcharger was cooling off. The question came to mine is how do I judge the performance of the system. How can I tell if my compressor isn't cutting it? The kit came with a cheesy plastic pressure gauge and it showed that I had enough freon in the system. The inside of a Ramcharger is a LARGE area to try to cool on a hot day so the real test is upcoming.
What else should I consider updating? What is the deal with the expansion valve?
I have about $200 invested in this AC venture so far so it has worked pretty well.

[Dr. Righteous]

Well, drove the Ramcharger to church this morning and then drove it around after church. It wasn't teribly hot today so there wasn't a huge burden on the AC to cool the cab. The system does cool but it certainly doesn't get as cold as it should.
OK. What is the next step?
New hoses, New Accumulator, fresh 4 12oz cans of R134, 8oz of oil.

[tlh101]

You will need to change the orfice block ( expansion valve ) for one designed to work w/ 134.
I'm not 100%, but was told block for r-12 is black, and 134 is silver.

[Tarrbabe]

Okay, since the last time I posted my Dak quit cooling all together. I guess I'll go get the expansion valve tomorrow. By the way, the one on my 91 Dak is unpainted alum. and it came with R-12.
Dr. Righteous, you did have the system vacumed before you charged it, didn't you? Does the freon run clear in the view hole on the dryer? If you have air in the lines, it can compromise the cooling ability.

[Gerhard Heim]

I know I am late getting into this but I am a trained and certified A/C Refrig. mechanic from tiney units to industrial plants. I have been doing this sinse I was trained in the USAF in 71. The first thing is that the BTU rating is much higher on 12 then on 134A your condenser will be to small to carry proper heat transfer as it was stated it will be about 25% to small also you do have to flush the system to remove all the old oil R12 oil is a parrifin-mineral base oil which coats everthing and 134A oil is synctic oil which will tear up some rubber hoses and O rings.you must install new dryer before closing up the system. also you must evauate the system to remove all air and contaments and water!to min. of 29.5 inchs of merc. if you see bubbles in the sightglass that should meen low on gas clear means low on gas which will show up with no refrig. efect or full charge an a refrig. efect .rule of thum is 30-40 deg. dif on cond over ambeint and 15-20 deg on evap over ambient meaning air in verses air out. Unless you did not evacuat good and clean up your system if you suspect air with the a/c running put your hand on the top off the condensser and then slowley go down if it is hot and slowley gets cooller there is no air in system if all of a sudden it gets cold you have air. AIR will always find its way to the high side it is a law of noncondensables gasses. if your press is high on the cond and real low on the evap then you have dirt or water in system and it will always find its way to the mettering devics because it is a small restriction for dirt or water vapor will frezze in it eather wayyou need to totaly clean the system the right way and then recharge the reason the shop was charging so much is due to the goverment rules on R12 it must be recovered by a certified mechanic with the proper equipment I hope this has helped You can thank the greenhouse efect theory and our beurocrats for this

[usdart]

Wait a minute.. Do yourself a favor and visit 'autorefrigerants.com. They have a drop in replacement for R-12 that is 1. cheaper 2. compatable 3. you do NOT need a license to use it. 4 enviromenally safe.

I found out the Hard way that 134a runs at a higher pressure because it blew my seals on the compressor.

No more problems now.

Hope this helps some other guys too.

Good luck. Dave (usdart@yahoo.com)

[Tarrbabe]

Has anyone used the r-12 replacement? How does it compare in BTU's? The local parts store sells the stuff but I have heard it doesn't cool very well.
Thanks

[usdart]

I know 4 people who use it. 1. a chev suburbon (yuk-chev).
2. A motorhome. a 73 Dart (me). 4. a 88 New Yorker.
No complaints..
There is a 1=800 number you can get off their site, call and talk to Randy. He is VERY helpful and will explain the install in detail and answer any questions for you.

[tcvpar]

well here goes i did all of the above 3 times before i got it right 1 remove the comp. turn it upside down , drain all of the oil....2 instal 8OZ of oil [134] type. 3 disconect the dryer from the condenser & the evaperator 4 pick up some brake cleaner . flush the evap. & the cond. . use air to blow all cleaner out of evap . & cond.. be sure not to get any thing.. in the dryer..you can short cut it as i did 2 times..5 you will need green .o. rings and new metal gaskets .. your 134 will operate on 250 + discharge 30 to 40 # suction..hope this will help tcv