|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
Hard Starting When Warm-Help
I have a 65 Barracuda with the 273 running a 1405 Edelbrock with Electric Choke- The car starts and runs well when cold- but when I shut it off and let it set for 15-20 minutes, it will not start, it acts flooded. Let it set for 30 minutes and it will start right up. I've installed new needle and seats, adjusted the floats, etc. Nothing seems to help- any ideas out there.
|
#2
|
||||
|
||||
Without a better description, I would have to say that it is vapor lock. Reroute your fuel lines away from sources of heat or install an electric fuel pump.
Unless you actually removed the air cleaner and smelt alot of raw fuel, then acts like flooded is a bad description. |
#3
|
||||
|
||||
The next time this happens, hold the throttle 1/2 open while you crank her over. Did it start? If not, hold it to the floor and try again. If it still doesn't start, its probably not flooding.
What kind of fuel pump are you running? |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
I can smell raw fuel, and have tried 1/2 throttle and full throttle startiang neither seems to help. I'm running a stock mechanical fuel pump. Intake is cast and I have a 1" aluminum spacer betweem carb and intake. Could it be boiling the fuel? There is gas in the bowls when I take the top off the carb. I can see it shoot fuel into the carb, and I changed accelator pump.
|
#5
|
|||
|
|||
Maybe the elect choke is not working correctly ,, try to set choke so that it is open, then start and warm up , turn off see if it starts, unless you are sure it is opening, and staying open after its warmed up, is your fuel pump working ok? If I remember right ,,if you have too much fuel pressure with eb carb it will flood, even though you have a stock pump, it may have too much pressure,(even though its stock it may be malfunctioning) check fuel pressure, and see also make sure it is pumping enough fuel, at the same time ........ good luck!!
coolcarz |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
Get the engine good and warm, shut it off, remove the air cleaner and look straight down into the front and rear throats of the carb. Look for gas dripping from the boosters. If none appears right after shutdown, look again after a few minutes.
The presence of gas in the carb throat after shutdown can be from percolation, too high fuel presure, too high a float setting or a combo. |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
I will check fuel pressure again, I had @ 7lbs the last time I check. As far as the choke, it is wide open, in fact, it should be harder to start cold than it is. Thanks!
|
#8
|
|||
|
|||
I might have found the solution- when it doesn't start I don't think I'm getting spark. - I believe the ballast resistor is changing value or opening under heat- the raw gas -I think is caused by me trying to keep starting it and there is no fuel being burned.
thanks everyone! |
#9
|
|||
|
|||
I had a problem like that, it was a leak in an internal gasket, gas slowly pouring into the cylinders. made cold starts a dream, but hot was no go. i actually could hear the fuel dripping when hot, sounded like a bullfrog when the drips hit the hot intake manifold.
if you suspect a spark problem, just try having a friend turn it over while you ground a spark plug to the outside of the motor(pull off a plug wire, attach a spare plug to it, and hold it against the motor..you'll see a spark easily if there is one.) |
#10
|
|||
|
|||
Flooding or Hard start???
I had a similar problem with my Edelbrock #1406 600CFM carb. When the engine was cold or cool it would start within a second. After a cross town drive when it was good and hot I would have to crank it for several seconds and put my foot about half way to the floor before it would start.
The problem was HEAT somehow. What I figured after sitting on a fully up to temp engine the carb was heat soaking. I installed a 1/2" thick fiber carb spacer and the problem disappeared. Remember that a aluminum carb really wicks the heat out of the engine and the fuel in the passages will evaporate. That was the beauty of the THERMOQUAD. I really wish that carb was still in production. If the spark fix doesn't take car of your problem, try swapping the aluminum spacer you are using for a phnolic (plastic) spacer to isolate the carb from the hot engine. |
#11
|
|||
|
|||
I had the same problem with my 1406 Edelbrock on my 340.
Get the insulating gasket made by Edelbrock for the carburetor. Then, if you're not already using one, get a mini starter from a late model V-8 Dodge Ram. My car now fires right up, hot or cold. |
#12
|
|||
|
|||
or replace your intake with an aluminum high rise..does all the work for you.
|
#13
|
|||
|
|||
It wasn't the ballast resistor, but I was getting the 12V for the choke from the coil which I understand now effects the ignition and spark. I will also try the plastic spacer. It still is slow to start when it is warm.
Thanks- |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
hard starting | tatoo tom | Ram Truck Chat | 7 | 09-18-2007 12:10 AM |
hard starting | black8 | Dakota Truck Forum | 5 | 10-12-2005 09:52 PM |
hard starting 4.0 | george a nilsen | Jeep Chat (Wrangler, Cherokee, etc...) | 4 | 04-28-2005 10:08 PM |
Hard starting 5.2 92 | JAH | Dakota Truck Forum | 13 | 02-09-2004 11:51 PM |
Hard Starting....Sometimes?? | moparye | Ram Truck Chat | 0 | 10-23-2001 07:16 PM |