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  #1  
Old 09-08-2002, 12:29 PM
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modro modro is offline
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Default I need enlightenment on the 383.

I am about to purchase a car with a 383 in it, a 1967 Chrysler Newport actually. In the interest of lowered costs, I have no intention on replacing the 383 w/ something bigger, because I am sure that the old thing will be plenty of fun, and it runs fine.

The engine is original to the car, it is a 383 w/ 2bbl. Any info on these engines would be greatly appreciated, as I am completely unfamiliar with Chrysler Big Blocks, as this will be my first. Any ideas on what kinds of things to keep note of, problem areas, or anything of that nature?

Also good resources on performance items for this engine, and stuff like that. Upon hearing the engine fire up (swiftly I might add) and listening to that throaty big v-8 rumble (far removed from the more raspy growl of the smallblocks) I almost instantly decided on the car, the fact that the body is sound was a mere plus.

The car itself is pretty cool also, it has that "Continental with an attitude problem" look to it, and frankly, I have seen little by way of big chrysler sedans out there. Should make an intereting daily driver.

And another note...

I have heard mention of the ability to install discs op front by way of spindles, etc off of a 73+ car. How feasable is this on a '67?
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  #2  
Old 09-08-2002, 01:48 PM
Doug Wilson Doug Wilson is offline
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Stock 383s are stone solid. You might run into a missfire if you twist it over 8500 RPM.

A 2 bbl 383 is a great place to start if you ever do decide to build it a little. It will respond nicely to any of the standard build up, bolt on parts, programs.

As for resources, this is the place to be.

On the disk brake conversion, I don't know the answer to your question, but my '67 Crown Imperial has 4 piston disks which should bolt on if you find one to cannabilize.
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  #3  
Old 09-08-2002, 02:19 PM
E Strong E Strong is offline
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Cool Cool in Deed!!

Boy does this bring back good memories. My first car was a 67 Newport Custom 2 door fast back with buckets and console. It too was a 383 two barrel. Be prepared for a lot of compliments. These cars draw more attention than Chargers or other well known muscle cars. I now own a 68 Chrysler 300 with 440 HP. There are few days that go by that I don't get many comments on my car. And the great thing is they come from all ages. Kids 5 or 6 years old, give it a big thumbs up, " cool car man ". This has happened many times. Teens love this car. Adults of all ages love this car. As far as performance goes the 383 is a good performer. Your 300 H.P. engine can easily be upgraded. I have been planning to write about this anyway. So, here goes. 1st keep the cam. Yes keep the stock cam. The money spent on cam and lifters, springs, hardened oil pump shaft and other goodies like push rods can really add up and the performance increase is minimalcompared to things like headers, intake and four barrel carb The Edelbrock 750 performer carb and Performer RPM intake is one of the best combos on the market. I am using Hooker Super Comp headers. They fit the C-Body cars like ours like a glove, ( but they do cradle the starter ). I'll check these mods using the DeskTop Dyno to see what H.P. and torque inprovements you should get with these mods, as well as a cam change, because I know others are going to suggest a cam change. If you do decide on a cam change I would suggest you do the other mods first. Have fun!!

Quick Claims Adjuster!!!
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  #4  
Old 09-08-2002, 02:22 PM
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dirty dan dirty dan is offline
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Default 383

You have selected a good dependable engine.
If you decide to make performance upgrades to it.
You should get opions from this board as many have
already traveled the same path you are on.
For best results trie to post one question at a time
and give as much detail as possable.
The better you explane the question the better
the replies will be.
In terms of performance the 383 2barrle is an excellent
entery level engine .
That was (very) well designed and has many good
attributes .
Enjoy
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  #5  
Old 09-08-2002, 02:48 PM
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dave571 dave571 is offline
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A great place to start!

My dad and I have a 66 charger. It had a 361 big block(which is much like a 383) After putting on a 4bbl carb and dual exhaust, there was a VERY nice boost in performance.

Also, your 67 should have 915 casting heads. These are considered(arguably) the most desireable head chrysler produced on the b/rb engine. If you decide to build it a little crazier later on, you have a great set of heads to work with, and a steel crank motor that will rev like crazy.

An idea of how short the "b" engine stroke is. It's 3.380 while the small block 273,318,340 is 3.310. Only .070" of an inch difference.

In contrast, I'm pretty sure a 350 chevy has a stroke of 3.750". That's the same as a 440!
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  #6  
Old 09-08-2002, 04:08 PM
E Strong E Strong is offline
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Cool Breathe Easier!!

Seems we all agree so far. Here are the numbers for your 383.
Adding a 4Bbl. nets you 22 H.P and 11 Ft. Lb. of torque, more if you go with a good intake like the Edelbrock Performer RPM. Small tube headers with 1 3/4" primary tubes, will get you 34 H.P. and 25 Lbs torque. Thats 56 H.P. and 36 lbs. of torque without going deep into the engine. Some other early mods you might consider are, a windage tray ($24.95 at Mancini's Racing) It keeps your crank from slapping the oil in pan and saves you 15 H.P. which is an amazing H.P. per Dollar ratio. A viscous fan will also give you 15-16 H.P. Most newer cars use them and you should have no problem finding one in the junk yard. Now for the cam. I tried a Comp cams Magnum 270, ( which is the biggest you can go without changing torque convertor) with the above setup it showed an increase of only 2 H.P. and 9 lbs. of torque. Again I suggest staying with the stock cam unless you plan to race your car. You will certainly notice a 56 H.P. increase. To go to a big jump in H.P. you might want to consider Edelbrocks 84cc Aluminun Heads ($1200) and high compression pistons. The numbers I got above were with 9:1 compression. With Aluminum heads you can go with 10.1 or even 10.5:1. Hope this helps.!!

Quick Claims Adjuster!!!
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  #7  
Old 09-08-2002, 05:31 PM
Doug Wilson Doug Wilson is offline
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Good program. I really think a good low-end type cam oughtta give you more horses and torque improvement than that.
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  #8  
Old 09-08-2002, 06:05 PM
E Strong E Strong is offline
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Exclamation Stock Cam!

I was using the stock 440 cam as my test mark. I don't have the numbers for a 383 cam. some 383s used the same cam. It's a 450" lift intake. 458" lift ex. 268 degrees intake and 284 degrees ex. Centerline is 110 degrees. I will run some more tests later. But do you agree that the cam doesn't come first? ( when building a street engine)???

Quick Claims Adjuster!!!
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  #9  
Old 09-08-2002, 07:06 PM
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modro modro is offline
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Doug , 8500?






Umm, You are talking about a Chrysler Big Block right?

Jeez.

Well, good to see I happened upon a decent engine

I am going to resist the urge to drop in a bigger cam, maybe just a new stocker or a mild one, supposing I need to replace it ever. In that Newport, I think some good, solid, bottom end torque is more appropriate, I won't be going for high peak horsepower numbers except in a lighter weight car. I find the addition of a new carb and headers causing an increase of close to 60 HP very impressive.

So would it be safe to say that the 383 is a quick motor, strangled by it's intake and exhaust?

I actually like that big Newport sedan though. Very evil looking, but yet classy. Great combo. I originally considered getting it and dropping the engine into my RR, but the idea of having a second classic in that Monstrous C-Body Chrysler is now what I am thinking, without the thought of dropping that engine in my RR even crossing my mind anymore.

Thanks for the info, I appreciate it.
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  #10  
Old 09-08-2002, 07:10 PM
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Aah yes, before I forget.

I had also seen information about the Imperial discs bolting up, but apparently the Imperials w/ the discs are very hard to come by. Definitely wouldn't mind having an old Imperial though, very nice cars. I am particularly fond of the 67/68 ones, with the really cool rear end treatment. Don't know if I could bring myself to stealing parts off of one, if salvageable that is.
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  #11  
Old 09-08-2002, 08:51 PM
Doug Wilson Doug Wilson is offline
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I was just trying to point out that, on your way to 8500 RPM, you may encounter some failures with a stock short block.

This statement was an indication of my somewhat dry humor.
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  #12  
Old 09-08-2002, 08:52 PM
beepbeepsrule beepbeepsrule is offline
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The '67 383's and earlier had smaller combustion chambers and valves than the later '68 and up magnum heads. The heads are basically the same as the '67 440 GTX or R/T head but with smaller valves. The '67 383 had a little higher compression than the later magnums and runs real good down low and mid-range.The 4bbl manifold will give more RPM and about 25 hp but you have to watch the cam choices for clearances with the stock piston/head combo. Gotta run 91 or so octane also with them.

One thing you can do to keep the performance fresh is the upgrade to electronic ignition. Dual exhaust will also help, you will be able to run more total advance that way. I would do the ignition upgrade and dual exhaust first, even with the 2bbl you should be able to gain quite a bit in seat-of-the-pants feel.
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  #13  
Old 09-08-2002, 08:56 PM
Doug Wilson Doug Wilson is offline
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Good advice.
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  #14  
Old 09-08-2002, 10:23 PM
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modro modro is offline
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Doug, I interpreted that more as a sarcastic "Yeah, It's strong." than anything else.

Wonder what would be involved in getting one to spin that fast..

Make the VTEC boys wet themselves..

Oh wait.. It doesn't need to spin that fast.

I forgot American v-8's have power at useable levels.
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  #15  
Old 09-08-2002, 10:41 PM
Doug Wilson Doug Wilson is offline
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No doubt in my mind that you could reliably spin a 383 to 8500 without failure, with the right parts. I'm sure it's being done at tracks all over the country.

Not, however, with a stock shortblock.
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  #16  
Old 09-10-2002, 10:24 PM
TheTanSedan TheTanSedan is offline
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Default 383

My one and only car of the past seven years has been a now-modified 1971 383 Newport 2V. Here's what is good:

Electronic Ignition (MP or new MSD Ready-To-Run).
Dual Exhaust (2.25" with HP manifolds & crossover; the
bettter header choice is Schumacher Tri-Y)
Dual snorkel intake; keep heat stove
if equipped and keep heat crossover and riser.
Front/rear larger than stock Quickor anti-roll bars.
1974 and later, larger front torsion bars.
Fresh rear leaf springs & shocks.
1973 Kelsey-Hayes single piston disc brakes
(Just take everything off of donor)plus Carbon
Metallic brake linings/pads.
Vacuum-secondary spreadbore carb.
(QuadrJet, Thermoquad or Holley 80555).
(Plus 4v linkage off of junkyard wreck).
Sure Grip, 3.23 gears.
Part-throttle kick-down (post 71 trans or
A and A Transmission).
An RV/HD shift kit & cooler; maybe an MP 145K converter.
Clean up bulkhead connector & re-grease.
Use lots of dedicated electrical grounds; almost
no NOS harnesses available.
Re-do the u-joints.
Get modern, better tires along with
MOOG offset upper arm bushings to be
better able to align for radial handling.

As to cam, lots of opinion, but the general replacement
from MP, the .430/.430 cam has
having more area under the curve and
Dick Landy loves to recommend it for
torque applications.

Most important?

The C-Body Dry Dock, with several hundred C-Body owners.
We've just started a tech archive, you are not alone.

http://pub54.ezboard.com/fmotorcitymoparpagesfrm1
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  #17  
Old 09-11-2002, 01:41 AM
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modro modro is offline
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Already a member.

I found that board a few days ago, and all of the c-body specific info is a real boon for me, since most all other mopar info is focused mainly on the A, B, and E body cars.

This site absolutely rocks for info on the A, B, and E's, along with engine related stuff.
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  #18  
Old 09-11-2002, 06:07 PM
68polara 68polara is offline
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welcom to the c body club i got the 383 4bl i did a lot of research about this motor i was thinking about going to 440 but everything i read or hear about this motor is that this is the best all around mopar motor period excellent bore stroke combo and a very tuff motor some have known to have more power than 440 stick with the power making upgrades intake, cam ,heads ,,compression, exhaust all must be comparible together to get max power do your researce and find ou t what u want mopar performance has a catalog that will give u some ideas on what it takes to get what u want to do with this motor i myself im running mine hard when it goes ill try to do better right now i got 625 carter crome box headman shorty headders 2/1/2 dynomax super turbos k n nair flow summitt mini starter offy dualplane highrise intake im happy with what i got this is a strong reliable motor im surprizing a lot of peoples with this is a good cruzer i really enjoy this polara i dont see to many i met a man with a mercedes benze and he said he had a 68 polara and it was the best car he ever had
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  #19  
Old 09-12-2002, 04:56 PM
custom880 custom880 is offline
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Don the 383 is the tank of the B Chrysler motors. They are the motor that was also used as the base performance engine in the RoadRunners of the 60's. The 383 can accept almost everything that will go on the beefier 440 with the exception of crank pistons and intake. The 383 will wind up quicker than a 440 and has a suprising amount of low end torque. The parts are not as plentiful as a few years ago, (pistons are a little tougher to find now a days) but they are still around. The 383 is sandwhiched between the 361 and 400 engines. (the 350 B block doesn't count, nor does the 383 RB block) The 383 like all Mopar motors is a very forgiving beast. They can take a pretty fair advance and will run forever if properly taken care of.
These motors are now seeing 6 pack set ups that were very rare in the original days of the motor. A good 383 will stomp a lot of brand x engines. Having one in a Newport draws off a lot of power because of the weight the car has. You should have no problem lighting up the tires anytime you want. Hey a Newprt with duals is a very cool looking car for sure.
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  #20  
Old 10-21-2002, 10:16 PM
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Question 383 rev. limet

what would the rpm limit be on a stock 383.
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  #21  
Old 10-21-2002, 10:43 PM
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I also have 2 C-bodies. Unfortunately, I missed the 915s by one year so both are 1966. My Newport is stone stock 300 horse 4bbl with 516 heads--never have tested how high it will spin. My great uncle bought it new in '67. However, I have never hesitated to stick my foot in my Monaco. When I got it, it had the 2bbl, and 5500 is about all it would do, I shifted at about 4200. I soon got tired of that and ported the 516s, added a '70 383hp intake, a 750 holley, and an alliance 292/480 cam. Even with stock exhaust manifolds, it now likes to be shifted around 5000. I am not going to disclose the details of how it happened, but I blew a head gasket once while trying to wind it out. The gasket blew at 6300, and it never so much as floated a valve. I wouldn't want to try for much more than that, though.

P.S. If I had it to do over, I would have opted for a cam with less duration and a set of headers.

Have fun; I know you will!
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  #22  
Old 10-21-2002, 11:05 PM
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My Charger R/T came with a 383,the 440 was long since blown I guess,That motor saw 6800rpms on a tri daily basis(at least).That 383 is in my 1 Ton truck,it weighs 5000 lbs.Its actually pretty fast considering the weight.
Go with the 4 bbl set up
Headers
Electronic Ignition(your old distributer needs to be replaced I'm sure
A good cam choice would be about 280 dur,480 lift or so.Even a Magnum replacement cam might be good too.When you put the cam in,pull the heads and have the bigger magnum valves in there.Get the porting template kit from mopar and port the Bowl area under the valves.Stay away from the short side raduis on these heads.The short side radius is the part closest to the port.
These motors put out Torque like crazy,and thats what you need for a old boat like that.I had a 65 New Yoker ,413 4bbl,and 68 Newport 383.I had a ball with those 2 cars,years ago
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  #23  
Old 10-22-2002, 11:29 AM
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The 67 383 2bbl will have the 516 heads, not 915. The 2bbl engines had a lower compression ratio than the 4bbl engines, probably down around 8:1.
The 516 heads have the same combustion chamber shape as the 915 but with smaller valves.

The low CR means you will definitely want to be conservative with your cam selection.
At some point the fact that you don't have hardened valve seats may become an issue. Take the opportunity at that point to increase the valve sizes, install hardened seats, and maybe do some porting. Otherwise some Edelbrock heads might be a good choice.
If you need to re-ring at some point you should address the CR issue with some "zero deck" pistons.
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