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#1
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Are you having as much fun as I am? Now my Dart won't crank.
The Dart fired fine earlier today.
After I got it home and let it sit for about an hour, it wouldn't even crank. I am getting 12.5 volts at the relay from the + battery wire. The smaller wire which goes to the starter is getting no volts with the key in the start position. The terminal on the relay marked "G" is getting 10.25 volts with the key in the start position. The terminal marked "I" is getting no volts. As any Mopar owner should, I already had a new spare control module, and starter relay so I went ahead and hooked them up. Still no go. When I hit the key, the alternator gauge needle goes to discharge just as it always does I'm starting the engine. I am getting 10.25 volts out of the center wire on the neutral safety switch. What next? Note-the starter cranks when I jump the terminals on the relay. |
#2
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Take a screwdriver across the two large terminals, on the starter relay. If she cranks over, then you need to take a look at the neutral safety switch. If she doesn't crank, then the starter motor or the battery is toast.
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#3
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ehostler, I put a new neutral safety/reverse light switch in this weekend because I had no reverse lights.
I now have reverse lights and the center wire on the switch has 10.25 volts with the key in the start position. |
#4
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when you say it wouldn't even crank... did you get anything out of it? a little click sound.. lots of clicks, but no spinning? or just plain nothing.. like you didn't even turn the key?
10.25 volts is too low for a 12 v battery.. that shows sign of way undercharged, or a dropped cell. Try jumping off your car, and see if that is going to bring it to life. then the battery is the problem. (batterys die really quick in the heat. ) |
#5
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Just try taking the screwdriver across the two large terminals on the starter relay. What happens??
That will answer alot of question and point you in a direction to begin troubleshooting. I also agree that 10.5V is a little low, however this could also be caused by resistance in the circuit. |
#6
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My car did the same thing for a period of time it was real annoying. It turned out to be my Neutral safety Switch which was new also. I replaced it with a unit from NAPA and torqued it to the spec outlined in the shop manual (20 ft-lbs I think) and I haven't had any problems since. If you are getting volt through the switch wires that is good. The switch works by grounding the starting system throught the transmission. If you ground the center wire and the car starts then it is definately a nuetral safety switch issue.
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#7
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OK guys. I hate to say this but, I found the problem.
The connector did not fit tightly on the neutral safety switch. Once I crimped it just a bit, it went on tight and the car fired right up. Thanks for your responses. Now, if I can just figure why the engine speeds up when I uncap a vacuum line coming out of the carburetor. |
#8
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Vacume leak
It is supose to do that.
Cuda 66 273 could give you the 2 page reson why and I am sure it would be most helpfull for you. |
#9
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Sorry
sorry 340 727 dart
I am haveing a bad hair day. Just a quick explanation on the why. When you pull the hose off it creates a vacume leak. This creates a lean condition (in other words more air then fule) That is what acualy makes the engine speed up. Don`t be confused this is not a good thing to leave open. As the engine requires a certain amount of air/fuel mix for long term use. I hope it helps Dirty Dan |
#10
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Re: Sorry
Quote:
I think I need to just step back from the car for a couple of days and think this thing through. It is running well right now, so I am just going to drive it and put some miles on it to get it broken in. I just got done putting the original jets and metering rods back in the carb, and that helped some. I was able to turn the idle down some, and now have 10" of vacuum. It still smells rich at the tailpipe though. One thing I do know is that this is a great site. There are no attitudes prevalent here. I've taken more from this board than I've contributed. |
#11
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Re: Re: Sorry
Quote:
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