NEED a machinist in the Atl GA area...and some opinions

[danmaloy]

Hey Guys,

Need some help...

I’m replacing the rusting/nasty 10+ year old headers on my 64 Fury and have had a minor set back...as I was removing the exhaust studs I ended up snapping the first two off in the head : (....I have a bunch more to remove and have decided it’s probably best to pop the heads off and deal with them on the bench....but as you can imagine my head (no pun intended!) is spinning with all the options/improvements I could do with the intake/heads off...don’t let go over the deep-end here!!!

Background:
1. I have a 383 .030 short block that was rebuilt 10 years ago using flat top TRW pistons, stock rods and stock crank; about 4 years back I installed a MP 282/484 cam, and at this time I am unsure of the compression ratio (hope to figure that out when I pull the heads)...plus I will perform a leak down test before I pull the heads...just to compare cyl to cyl to see if I have any obvious leaks/problems
2. The heads are stock 906 heads that were freshened up during the rebuild 10 years back, and then when I installed the MP cam I also changed the value springs (don’t have the number/specs, but I used what MP recommended with the cam) and I have adjustable rockers (came with the motor)
3. Have a Edelbrock Performer dual plane with a 1" spacer with a Holley 750 vacuum secondaries on top. (not sure if it matters, but the Holley has the Percy adjust-a-jet plates)
4. Running the MP electronic ignition (distributor was recurved) using Blue Max wires and Champ plugs
5. Installing the Hedman Elite 78038 headers (replacing the Hedman 78030)
6. Have a 727 push-button with a 2800 stall converter with shift kit (works really nice!)
7. 8 ¾ sure grip with 3:23 running 15" rims/tires

So here’s where I need some help...
1. I’m new to the Atlanta GA area and NEED to find a great machinist (preferably who is a Mopar God) and one that can handle cylinder head work
2. Should I consider having any port work done to the heads given the specs above? Would I gain throughout the power range or only on the top end? Right now the motor feels weak/flat on the low end, but has great mid and upper end pull (not sure if the Holley 750 is killing my off the line throttle response, or the 3:23 or both....it’s real tough to light the tires up)
3. What compression ratio should I try to go for, 9:1 or 9.5:1 or ??? Can I get that shaving the heads or is that a no-no since that changes the rocker/valve geometry....not to mention wouldn’t I need my intake shaved as well?
4. Should I not mess with the heads and just swap the dual plane intake to a single with a new Demon

Thanks in advance for the info...if I only get one answer please help me find a great machinist in the area...thanks guys

[CopperDodge]

Ed Nalley at Nalley Racing Engines is a good all-around guy who builds some damn hot motors. He's in an industrial park off Buford Highway in Norcross at 770-368-0873.

He builds primarily Ford & Lincoln mountain motors, but he's a good machinist and can answer a lot of your questions. I'm fairly certain that he can help you out on heads. If he can't he will tell you who the Mopar God is in ATL. To put your mind at ease, Ed's also got a 79 Chevy half ton truck named Thumper that has a 540 ci motor and will run hi 10's when it doesn't break the rear end. He's also the owner of the V-10 Ram 1500..... the Hayes Hammer.

Now, if you dont' mind driving up to Exit 1 in South Carolina, there's a guy named Tim Gibson who builds crazy Mopar stuff in the town of Walhalla. Ed knows him, and can tell you how to get in touch with him. It's only a two hour drive up there, but there's lots of Mopar knowledge to be gained up in Walhalla. The guys' got a 340 Dart that runs low 6's in the 1/8th with deadly consistency.

If that fails, then call Jeremy Hayes at Hayes Dodge up in Oakwood (just outside of Gainesville). He's actually a body shop manager for the family dealership, but he knows lots of the local Mopar guys and will point you in the right direction.


But personally, I think Ed Nalley can hook you up......

[lenweiler]

Danmaloy. I wouldn't swap the dual for a single plane intake. Your bottom end torque with go for a crapp and the motor will never recover the lost et.
Don't go nuts on the heads. Sounds to me that the engine wouldn't make use of too much extra flow. The '906's don't respond as well to a bowl port as the later years.
I'd recommend a really good 3 angle valve job( 30 degree top angle at .050", 45 degree seat at no more than .060" and the final angle at 70 degree and no wider than .075 ".We sometimes clean the top angle with a 0 to 10 dress cut. Keep the runout on the seat to a max of .oo1" if possible. Excellent guides are a must. We use bronzewell liners with 0 clearance (the bronze screw- in liners clearance themselves) A grade A valve job will take you a long way down the performance path.

[danmaloy]

CopperDodge I REALLY appreciate the leads...I'll start with Ed when I get the heads pulled...I should probablly pick your brain a little more about the area...any good tranny/rear-end shops that you know of/use? Not that I think I need either right now, but it never hurts to have the leads ready...

lenweiler you think I should save my cash/time for a different motor combo...I kinda figured that was the right move, but wanted a couple opinions to confirm I wasn't overlooking an obvious improvement. The valve grind specs you provide are quite detailed, is that the set-up you run? Also if I do send the heads to have the valves cleaned up, should I consider having the heads plained/shaved?

Oh and what Fel-Pro head gasket should I run?

Thanks again guys!

Dan

[lenweiler]

As far as the valve seat angle sizes, talk to 10 machinists, and you'll get 10 different answers. We run a .045-.050" seat widths. This allows more flow at the lower lifts(theoretically) and therefore more torque/hp. But the narrow seat does widen more quickly then the wider street widths(.060"-.090")
I haven't the part number on the felpro headgasget, but they must have the stainless steel ring. They offer 3 different compression sizes. .028", .042", and a new .050". Rol manufactures a good gasget also. I had good luck with both.

[CopperDodge]

I'm still trying to find a good rear-end shop and a tranny shop, too, but I dont' know of any here in town. I have a Dakota and I am looking for a shop that will install a locker for me, so I'll prolly end up at a 4x4 shop (even though it's a 2wd).

As for trannies..... if you've got 727 needs or even 904 needs, I hear that THE PLACE is Cook's Transmissions in Spartanburg, SC.

There's a bunch of Walhalla boys that swear by Cook's....

Example: another SC buddy has a 10-sec Dart with a 408. A rebuilt 904 Flite with a full-manual valve body w/ reverse shift pattern set him back a grand total of $350. Tell me THAT'S not a good deal......

[mr_340]

I think Barnett is in the Atlanta area. They build a few SS Hemis and supposedly do all the machine work for Bullet Bob Reed.

[CopperDodge]

Yep, I'm a dumb-ass. Barnett is on Memorial Drive just west of Boulevard. Right across from Oakland Cemetary. Like 10 minutes from my house..... Durrrrrrrr......

[MOPARVANN]

Barnett is good and just up the road in Tennesee is Hensley Racing. Give Hensley a call at 865-947-0426 they stock MOPAR and also speak MOPAR. They race what they sell and are a MOPAR only parts warehouse. This is also where Herb McCandless can usually be found. If you don't remember Herb, he did the research and testing for Mopar Performance and developed the w-2 heads. Hensley really knows their stuff, have good prices and the best MOPAR service available. Good Luck and keep the MOPARS out front.