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transplanting a 383 into an e-body
I found a 1967 Chrysler 300 with a 383 in it. I might be buying this motor as soon as I get a price on it from the owner. What will I need to intall it in my car. It currently has a 318 with ac, and ps. This car also has these items. Will the currnet torsion bars cut it or will they need to be changed? Also what would be a good way to rebuild this motor? If I do get it this will be my first performance aoutmobile engine rebuild (I've only rebuilt tractor motors). I will be a street driven, but I would like to have an edge over the Ford and Chevy guys. What kind of heads will this motor have on it? I just need all the information I can get.
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#2
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If the price is right try to get everything from the radiator to the end of the transmission from the '67 Chrysler.
The reason I include the radiator is I think the water inlet is on the oppiset side than on your car. You will need all the engine brackets and pulleys to mount the power steering pump, A/C and alternator. The power steering pump may even be different. I'm not sure about motor mounts, but there are engine swap mounts avaliable, but not really cheap. The big block uses a different transmission bolt pattern so you need the transmission too. Some '67 transmissions used a different input shaft spline count, so the torque converter may be different than your later year converter. The wiring harness will need to be modified because the small block harness will be too short to reach some connections (distribitor, temp sending unit, maybe the alternator too?) I'm not really sold on the 383. They are a good engine, but for conversions like this the 360 small block is alot easier swap, and usually performs just as well. If you want more CID spend the $300 on the 360 stroker crank and build a 408 CID small block, it will weigh less, hook up to your transmission, radiator, and accessory brackets. |
#3
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Moulder
The 360 would be easier to do. But since the 383 is a complete engine in a running car with everything you need to get up and running, (minus drive shaft & electrical wire extending) I would go for the 383. You may require new mounts for the engine. Not a big deal really. The engine has high rpm abiltys. I recomend 3 books to get and read for the low down on these engines. HP books, Big-Block Mopar Performance by Chuck Senatore, HP books, How to rebuild Big Block Mopar engines by Don Taylor, MoPar Engines book on Big Block MoPar engines. The heads should be the 516's. A good way to rebuild this engine, IMO, is to have a torque plate on top when you bore it out, IF needed, and install zero deck pistons at the tallest. Iron headed engines should be kept around 9.5-1 comp ratio with a mild cam. Octane at the pump is only so good you know. Port out your heads, add headers and go. Larger velves are possible. The T-bars will do well for a street machine. The stock 383 bars are bigger and heavier. The small block bars will be a little mushy but will do right on weight transfer. (Read; good for speed.) Get the whole car and use evrything from it to make this swap easier. Don't be alarmed when a stupid kid says something about a Chevy 383. Just smile and say it's a real 383, not a GM corp. mutt mix attempt to do something better. |
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