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#1
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Help! Electrical Problems
I have been tinkering with the old Dodge for a while in short bursts, and I finally got it running again. It took some time, but I finally found a reasonably priced Holley 600 to replace the overkill 750 annular, leveled my warped manifolds, and found a good set of stocker valve covers to replace my bent up leaky ones. I'm all ready to go tuning now, except for the fact that I can't go drive the car. I have two problems: The first and most pressing is electrical. When I got the engine ready to run, I jumped in the car and hit the key. Nothing happened. I started looking around and I couldn't find any voltage anywhere except at the battery, hot side of the starter relay, and at the starter. Upon further examination of the starter relay, I noticed that the fusible link that runs off of it was singed. I put the test light to it, and it had juice for a couple of inches, and then the wire was pretty much dissentigrated. I followed it through the bulkhead and found it was burned inside too. I peeled back the tape on the harness, and this thing is fried up as far as I can follow it. I assume that this goes to the power distribution box? If someone can tell me where it goes before I dive head first into it, it would be appreciated. Also, where can I get a replacement? Can I just get a fusible link from Carquest and splice it into a new hot wire, or is this thing meant to burn up like it did? Any ideas on amp rating?
My second problem is an axle bearing. Most of my experience with rear ends has been with Ford 8.8 and Dana 44 or whatever that 1/2 ton rear is. I have messed with a few 9" Fords, but they have a different axle bearing too. I went and bought a new one today ($46!!! Standard cone & roller to match the other one), so I am ready for some avice. I see that ring is what holds the bearing in place, but I don't have a bearing spreader to get it off. Any tricks I can use? What should I set the axle end play to? This thing was not set up right when I got it, and it howled like a rabid dog. I have the ring & pinion under control, but I am concerned that this bearing failure was caused by excessive end play. Any help would be appreciated. -deadhorse66 1966 Dodge Monaco, 383 4 bbl, Alliance cam, ported 516 heads, 727, 8&3/4 rear. |
#2
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I rebuilt the one in my truck with a factory service manual at least 10 years ago and never had any problem it is well explain with all the spec. that you need. I had a spreader.
Robert |
#3
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I just used the "heat wrench" and cut the ring and bearing off. My bearing came with a new ring. Didn't bother to heat it just cut it so I didn't weaken the axle, but you have to be handy with a torch to do it. Otherwise use that loan-a-tool program. ...
...I assume this is an 8 3/4? |
#4
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Doesn't anyone know about the wiring problem I am describing?
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#5
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I solve my wiring problems by going to the dealer for parts. How old is the rig?
I have a factory service manual for a '67, but the sailor Son absconded with it. .. sorry. |
#6
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It is a 1966, so I doubt the dealer has any parts that will fit on it outside of what's in the Mopar Performance catalog.
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#7
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Possible help?
Does your car have a amp meter? If so the main feed coming through the firewall (bulkhead connector) will go directly to the
amp gauge then over to the distribution/fuse block. if you do not have the amp gauge it will go directly (may go through connectors) the the distribution/fuse block. Now for the bad news. If you wish to do the repair correctly you will need to replace every wire that has the insulation distorted as a result of overheating. Once the wire overheats a chemical reaction takes place in the wire and it will start to corrode. Even on the inside of remaining insulation. So replace the wire from connection to connection. Its really not that difficult. I did this in my 74 truck. My truck also had a large multiwire connector above the steering column and instead of replacing the complete connector I purchased a high amp single connector and repaired just the overheated wire and left the open spot in the old connector. You also have one other problem and that is that you need to find what is shorted and caused the over current condition in the first place. The melted wire is the result of a problem not the cause. |
#8
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Hey man I hope this helps. Every time that I every smoke tested a fusable link it had some thing to do with the alernator. On time the power wire was to high of gage. The other time I put a new alternator on from a different year and the windings went into the diods a little differently. Whamo instant smoke test. From the sounds of it I would look for obvious signs of new or replaced wires or electrical devices. Something some one "fixed". It sounds like the car ate full battery voltage at the path of least resistance, trust me this means lots of smoke.
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05 Hemi Magnum R/T (Current) 71 Satellite Custom (Current) 85 Dode Ram /6 (Current) 73 Swinger 76 Ram 3/4 Ton 77 Ram Shortbed 1/2 Ton 74 Duster w/318 92 Sundance 89 LeBarron Convertable Turbo |
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