Help with Crane hydraulic retrofit roller cam install.

[Mr. Cuda]

I just got a Crane hydraulic retrofit roller cam, Crane timing chain set and Crane button spacer for my 400 engine. This cam is a 3 bolt unit and when I bolt the cam to the sprocket, the cam get pulled forward about 1/4 inch. When I remove the sprocket, I can see 1/4" of cam bearing journal sticking out of the front cam bearing! My shop manual only shows single bolt cams and the old cam that I removed was a single bolt job.

I was told by the Crane tech people that the button spacer sticks out of the center hole of the sprocket and limits cam movement (end play) by coming in contact with the front timing cover. Is there some other spacer that I'm not aware of that I need?

[dirty dan]

mr cuda
The most inportant thing is that the lobes are properly lined up with the lifter bores.
And yes the button those control cam walk.
You should trim the button to allow 10thou clerance between the button and the timeing chain cover.
Also required is a bronz distriutor gear.
Also you may want to call crain back and ask them about a thrust washer,as to weather or not you need one.
The reason for the button is the way the roller cams are ground.
The lobes are ground level.
The other cams HYD/SOLID are ground at an angle wich causes the cam to walk towards the back of the block.
Eliminateing the need for a button.
Hope it helps

[451Mopar]

Roller cams on the big block need the cam button to help prevent the cam from "walking" forward. On my engine, I had to install the front cover with RTV because the timming cover gasket allower too much end play. I think the oil pump drive helps to keep the cam pushed back, but the cam button makes sure it wont move forward.

I don't know if your cam requires a bronze oil pump drive gear, Most billit roller cams do, but some have a cast drive gear installed so it will work with the stock oil pump drive gear.

[dirty dan]

Originally posted by 451Mopar
Roller cams on the big block need the cam button to help prevent the cam from "walking" forward. On my engine, I had to install the front cover with RTV because the timming cover gasket allower too much end play. I think the oil pump drive helps to keep the cam pushed back, but the cam button makes sure it wont move forward.

I don't know if your cam requires a bronze oil pump drive gear, Most billit roller cams do, but some have a cast drive gear installed so it will work with the stock oil pump drive gear.

You should make certain wich is required,prior to instalation.
Iam not formilure with the cast drive gear on a roller cam.
However Iam old school.
And I have done no homework on the new hyd;roller cams.
(Old dog new tricks syndrome) I suspect.

[Mr. Cuda]

The problem is when I bolt the sprocket to the cam shaft. The sprocket contacts the block properly but tightening the bolts pulls the cam forward until it contacts the sprocket. When I put a lifter pair in, the rollers ride of the edge of the lobes and the skirt on the side of the rear roller contacts the neighboring lobe. When I remove the sprocket and push the cam flush with the block, the rollers ride dead center on the lobes and everything looks perfect.

I have a Roller Master sprocket and the Crane Cams sprocket and both pull the cam forward when attached.

I have the proper drive gear. If you go to http://www.cranecams.com/master/apps/chrys16.htm, I have cam #4 and the aluminum-bronze distributor gear, button spacer, lifters, push rods, and timing chain/gear (non-billit) that is recommended for it.

I wasn't able to find any reference to a spacer on their web site and their tech support wasn't able to help either.

[deadhorse66]

Another thing that you might want to watch is where the cam button hits the stamped timing cover. I have seen stamped timing covers bend due to the endplay of the cam pounding the button into the cover. This will allow the cam to walk all over town if it wants to. Other makes have welded or cast aluminum timing covers to solve this problem, but I have yet to find one for a big Chrysler. I have also seen braces for stamped covers that fit in between the water pump and the timing cover to remedy the thrust issue, but again nothing for big Mopars. If anyone who sees this knows where I can get one, let me know--I would be most obliged, as I am sure Mr. Cuda would.

[DartGT66]

this seems strange. You don't have a bearing between the block and the cam sprocket? If not, seems to me that either your cam or cam sprocket is made wrong. I think Crane would be able to give you the thickness of the first cam journal that partially goes in to the upper sprocket. And they should be able to give you a figure too how deep it should go in to the sprocket. I have installed at least ten roller cams, also hydraulics, in to BB's and never jumped in to this kind of problem. You must have either a faulty upper sprocket or a faulty cam and can propably have them changed. If not, then shimming the cam inwards would be one solution. Normally I have had to dimple the timng cover for cam end clearance, sometimes even so far that I have had to grind the background of the pump housing. The somewhat flexible timing cover has never caused a problem for me. There are billet aluminum timing covers available for BB mopars, and there are of course things like Milodon gear drive or Jesel belt drive that have the tough covers. However, the clearance between the block and the pump housing isn't so great that it would accept a very thick cover without a need of spacers for the pump. And that messes with the pulley alignment and so on.

[deadhorse66]

Oh. The only roller motor I have built was a small Chevrolet, and I put an aluminum cover on it for the thrust button to ride against, and I ground the button until I had .008" endplay. Like I said above, I have seen thrust buttons kill stamped timing covers, and it was on the same sb Chevy roller motor. I knew that there was not a lot of clearance between the pump and the cover on big Chryslers, but I had never thought of just letting the pump take the endplay like that. Thanks much for the advice.

[J-440]

Yo Dart, my Crane hydraulic-roller cam is on its way to me also but I will be installing a Pete Jackson gear drive setup. Besides a little grinding for clearance on the block, have you encountered any other mods that I should do to make them fit? This is my 1st engine buildup and any help would be appreciated. Thanks guys.


J-440

[John Kunkel]

With a 3-bolt cam it's perfectly normal for the front cam journal to extend 1/4" from the block. The upper gear has a counterbore that registers it on the cam journal.
The single bolt cam gear registers off of the smaller extended hub on the front of the cam and the back of the gear is flush.
If the lobes aren't centered in the lifter bore, the cam must be ground wrong. I'd contact Crane.

[gotah-ny]

I have run a roller cam in my stroked 440 for 2 years with out any problem. The secret you ask simple go to www.manciniracing .com and order up there roller bearing cam button problem solved I gaurantee it. Those cams are amazing huge lifts awSome power and idles like a stock motor totally stealth until you smash that loud pedal.
HOPE THIS HELPS

[J-440]

Yeah gotah, I checked out Mancini's setup...pretty cool. I also got a hold of Pete Jackson and they said that the entire kit comes with a plate and button spacer along with their gear drive assembly. Seems like they got it together. Thanks dudes.



J-440

[J-440]

Mr. Cuda, let me know how everything went. Did you fix your problem? I just installed my hydraulic roller yesterday and I also have the same problem. There is about 1/4" of play with the cam. I contacted Pete Jackson since I will be using their gear drive and a plate, button spacer, and of course gears are included in the kit. Good luck bro.


J-440