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#1
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440 specs
Hi, i am building a 1968 440 for a 1968 barracuda notchback. i havew a couple question on what i can expect from this engine, here are the specs.
1. 1968 440 block .030 over 2. 906 heads with 3 angel valve job and 2.14/ 1.81 valves 3. Forged crank. 4. Holly Hi- perf. 780 vacum secondary electric choke 5. Edelbrock RPM Dual Plane intake. 6. Purple shaft "Six Pac" cam 7.Windage tray 8.mopar performance 9 to 1 piston (i think) no valve reliefs. The engine was ballanced, the whole 9 yrds. i am wondering if this is a good setup for street driving, as well as some racing against rice burners and such. i am open to suggestions. i am also later looking into a tunnel ram, maybe. thanks alot, Mike |
#2
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2. I would go with the EB 84cc heads, instead of the 906 heads.
4. I would get with Cuda66273 and get a Speed Demon or get with Demon Sizzler and get a nice TQ. Leave the Holley to the guys in bow ties. 6. That cam is rather small and not really up to date. Give Racer Brown a call (number is in the phone book at the top of performance talk). Tell you what you've got and what you would like to do, they will set you up with a cam that is much better than the outdated 6-pack cam. 8. If you go eith the EB heads, you can go up to 10.5:1 compression and still run pump gas. I just feel that the 8.8:1 compression is a little on the low side, for any form of performance. Also, instead of the MOPAR performance pistons, there are several other brands that will do the job and cost less. 9. TTI headers and 2.5" or 3" exhaust With these changes, you will still have a time street car, however it will fly at the track. |
#3
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I think your combo looks good. What you will have is around 350 hp and lots of torque. Much like the old muscle car motors. You can expect times in the low 15s hi 14s and maybe better if you can hook it. But to really be a rice fryer you will have to step up to the changes mentioned in the previous post, IMHO. Mopar motors are in a new era, now, and there is ever more speed parts that are new AND better. Good luck with your Cuda 440!
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#4
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barracuda, what color is your car? i've seen a orange and a brown notchback around. i saw a yellow convertible the other day. i wonder if ive admired your car before.
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#5
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How do you get angels to do your valve work?
Sorry, couldn't resist. |
#6
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m car is B5 blue, and angel do my head work? huh?
i was not expecting high 14's, that sucks. what do yall this of tunnel ram? i am looking for a 8.75 posi 3rd member, let me know if anyone here has one for me. |
#7
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In all honesty, I would pass on the tunnel ram, until you have enogh engine for it. with your listed setup, the tunnel ram will actually hurt your performance. Go with and EB Performer RPM.
As far as a sure-grip 3rd member goes, they are always on ebay. Just do a search for sure grip or for the specific gear ratio (3.23, 3.55, 3.91, etc) |
#8
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The right combo
The fish you are frying is a light car.
More compresstion always means more power, Up to 14.5 any way. E holster is right on the tunnell ram. As they are a high rpm intake. With your curent combo a tunnle ram would be a real dog. The edlbrook torqer 2 works real well with what you already have. And the weight of the fish is a big plus. 14`s should be no problem. Any thing such as milling or a piston change ,that you can do to boost compresstion will realy make a differance. The EB heads would be a nice add on later. But not a requirement until you have enough lift to realy take advantage of their good points. |
#9
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Forget the tunnel ram - forever!
Lose the carb. Lose the cam. What rear end do you now have, with which gears? |
#10
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ok, i am going to either have a 3.23 suregrip or a 3.55 surgrip.
if anyone canhelp me to convince my dad that these pistons are not so good, and niether is the cam, please help me out here, i want some compression. we are wroking with a guy that says these pistons and with that cam and intake and eveything should be worth about 425-450 horses. ok well thanks |
#11
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Well... you might tell your Dad that technology changes in every field. The new cam profiles from all the manufacturers are far better than the old "purpleshaft" stuff. More power, better reliability for the entire valve train, better economy. Some manufacturers are better than others, but ALL of the new stuff is better than the MOPAR Performance stuff. If technology didn't improve - your Personal Computer would occupy your entire garage and be about 1/1000th as powerful as it is. Oh, yeah - it would also cost 10 million dollars!
I'd stay with the pistons, 'cause the engine is already built - right?? Hot street rear end - 3.55. No problem with the 906s - maybe have hardened seats installed, but that could wait for later. I'm trying to give you a budget build-up path, here. |
#12
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Mike-I see that you put bigger valves in those 906s, thats good, but to get the most out of them, the heads should be at least pocket ported. It does'nt cost much to have it done. Also, the RPM intake is worth some hp over the stock so with that and some good headers(TTI)you should make more than 350..prob closer to 400 hp. Dont see how to get 450 w/o a cam in the .500 lift range and a 850 double pumper.
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#13
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A good stock rebuild (with headers) should net about 399hp (at least that is what Herb McCandles got).With the better intake and the bigger valves, I would expect about 415 hp, but not much more. If you are using exhaust manifolds, then expect no more than about 390 hp.
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#14
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Yupper
Quote:
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#15
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well, my dad is picking up the 474/.474 lift cam tonight, so that takers care of the cam i think
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#16
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On my opinion your carb should be just fine.
Mopar Performance built a 440 years ago with the 280/.474 cam, but it was a 11.5:1 aluminum rod/wiseco piston short block with stock valve size, a streetdominator intake and a 3310 Holley + headers. They got 406 hp out of it at 5000 rpm and the peak torque was at 4000. I think the dual plane might stretch the peak torque to slightly lower rpm, but the peak power would remain at about 5000. The cam you chose is a very versatile grind, I think it will work good with your combo. Two things I would pay attention on though. First the compression ratio. If you still got the pistons out of the engine, measure their compression height (from pin hole to the top of the piston and add 0.547". I'm afraid your CR will end up being very low, the 9:1 MP cast pistons are not what they are advertised. I have heard from several sources that they are actually the very same pistons that came in the late 70's 440 and that can give you a <8:1 CR. But measure them to be sure. If you've got the shortblock together already, measure how deep the pistons are in the hole at top dead center. You should aim at around 9-9.5:1 for good throttle response and performance with pump gas. Another thing is the heads. They have big valves installed, but was there any port work done? If not, you will have no benefit of the bigger valves, you have to open the bowls below the valves to gain performance. An easy way is to get MP porting templates and port the bowls using them, then do additional blending if needed. That will be a noticable, easy and inexpensive add to the power. |
#17
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ok, well, i had a 3 angle competition valve job by a guy who builds race engines. Mike Smith.
i had 10 to1 pistons, the stock ones in but had to bore .030 over. |
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