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  #1  
Old 11-16-2002, 08:36 AM
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Default piston question

Ive got a question. Dad says I should use a ridge reamer to remove my pistons. My buddy says I don't. Whose right? Thanks guys.
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Old 11-16-2002, 09:30 AM
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Default ridge reamer

If you have never used one DON`T.
It wouldn`t take much to destroy the top of the bore.
Your pistons will come out just fine without useing one.
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Old 11-16-2002, 10:07 AM
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I second what DD said don't do it.
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Old 11-16-2002, 06:56 PM
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whats the point of having one then?
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Old 11-16-2002, 08:18 PM
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Default Reamer

I am not an expert.. I used the ridge reamer to clean the ridge out of the top of the cylinder walls. I am told if you don't, your new rings will hit them and break them. This gives you a clean even cylinder to Hone for your new pistons/rings etc.

Your old pistons will come out fine because the rings are worn anyway,at least mine did. I never heard of ridge reaming BEFORE you remove your pistons..
Like the Guys said.. 'If you have never used one, DON'T'.
Get some help from someone with experience so you don't cut too much out and ruin your block..

I hope I am telling you right, I have only my own experience with mine to go by. The other fellows here are VERY TALENTED and can probably explain things better! I hope this helps Dave
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Old 11-16-2002, 08:32 PM
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I thought that was the reason of the ridge reamer,to cut the ridge down before you knocked the pistons out , to keep from breaking the rings lands or damaging the cylinder walls to the point where it would have to bored

just my thoughts on this

Rider
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Old 11-16-2002, 08:33 PM
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The pistons will usually come out pretty easy unless there is a large ridge, even then I have been able to get them out with a few taps to the bottom of the piston with a long stick and a large hammer. You only need a ridge reamer if your planning on doing a cheap rebuild by using the same pistons and only have a few thousands wear. Even then it's tricky to use one without screwing the block up and having to go to a overbore anyway.
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Old 11-16-2002, 08:42 PM
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Default thats right

Quote:
Originally posted by DartByU
The pistons will usually come out pretty easy unless there is a large ridge, even then I have been able to get them out with a few taps to the bottom of the piston with a long stick and a large hammer. You only need a ridge reamer if your planning on doing a cheap rebuild by using the same pistons and only have a few thousands wear. Even then it's tricky to use one without screwing the block up and having to go to a overbore anyway.
If you find the need for a ridge reamer then you should have it bored any way.
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Old 11-16-2002, 08:49 PM
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Default Re: thats right

Quote:
Originally posted by dirty dan

If you find the need for a ridge reamer then you should have it bored any way.
I agree, but some people are so cheap (or poor) they don't want to bore, that's the only time a ridge reamer is useful, I've never used one because I've always gone oversize.
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Old 11-16-2002, 09:04 PM
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Default Reamer

I may be 'cheap' but my budget rebuild is a really strong engine with no 'ticks' or quirks of any kind. If you have a low mileage engine with not alot of wear,as mine was, then it works. I bought the engine due to 53,000 miles on it. I rebuilt it to be sure it would last a long time. It was already out and I had the time but very few bucks. Someday I may come up with the money to do an engine the way I want. For now I have a dependable old MOPAR that I can say " I built it myself".
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  #11  
Old 11-16-2002, 10:04 PM
71SATELITE 71SATELITE is offline
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You are supposed to rige ream if you can feel a lip at the top of the cylinders. With the way things are done these days, the precise machine process makes things pretty fail proof. I have rebuilt highway truck motors with 700,000 miles on them and no ridge. The rule of thumb being, if there isn't enough there to feel with you bare hand, don't worry about it. I am not talking about carbon eithier, actual metal from wear in the cylinder. Hope this helps. Rember, friends don't let friends do machine work for the first time alone. My .02
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Old 11-16-2002, 10:09 PM
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Everybody here is right.

A ridge is usually reamed for one of two reasons.

1)The ridge is too big to get the pistons out. The rings just bite in too hard. usually an oversized rebuild is in order here.

2)a "re ring" is being done. The new rings can break when they contact the old ridge.

Dan, and everybody, are/is definately right about the damage potential. A reamer can really mess up the top of the cylinder, if not used properly.

Boring is not always necessary in a rebuild. There are specs for taper in the cylinder walls. This can easily be checked with a piston ring and a feeler gauge. If it's over recommended, then an overbore is required.

My 400 was .002" taper. I gave it a light hone, then proceded with the rest of my modifications to get the compression up. It makes good power, great oil pressure, and doesn't burn oil.
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Old 11-17-2002, 05:53 AM
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Ridge reamers are just about as outdated as piston knurling tools. I have torn down some pretty hairy engines, and I have NEVER used one, nor will I ever. Like dave and everyone else says, if you are trying to scrape by with minimal cash invested, then use one--if you want to do it right, take it to the machine shop. I use a deglazing hone to break up siezed engines, and it works great. I bought a 1970 383 HP engine from a guy that had it sitting on a stand in the yard without heads and a grill lid for a cover. It was locked up tighter than Dick's hatband and it had a good ridge to boot. I moved it into the shop and soaked the pistons down with PB Blaster and hit the ones I could get to with the hone. The honed cylinders freed up and let the pistons go without any trouble, but I did break some rings on the cylinders that were too close to deck to get the hone in. I wasn't worried because the pistons were ruined anyway and the thing has to be bored to clean up some rust on the walls. With an engine that isn't siezed, you can hone all of the ridges down without any trouble of course, but I would definately reccommend an overbore and an automatic torque plate honing to true the cylinders up within .0005 .
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Old 11-17-2002, 12:02 PM
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So, thr ridge reamer is to keep from harming the old rings, or the cylinder itself? Dad ran a salvage and was a NHRA drag racer in the sixtys(Norman Benson). There is no argueing with him. Every day he asks me if I have a ridge reamer yet. He has been wrong a few times, but you can count them on one hand. Thanks guys,
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Old 11-17-2002, 02:10 PM
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Default Reamer

I don't care what the others say.. There is nothing wrong with the old fashioned way. A lot of races were won without todays technology. You can throw money at your engine or take the time and have the pleasure of doing it yourself.
Get a Reamer and enjoy your time with your Dad on your Engine. My Dad has been in Heaven for 12 years now, Don't miss the chance to share and Love.

If it needs Boreing then trust the experience of a Racer with proven results.Your Dad.
My best friend is quite a bit older than I am and every time I disagreed with him I was proved wrong. He still holds several circle track records. He uses a ridge reamer as long as there is not too much wear in the cylinders. All his tools are probably considered Antiqes, but they work if you have the SKILLS to use them.
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  #16  
Old 11-17-2002, 09:42 PM
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nice answer u.s. dart. i think thats the one i was looking for. thanks...
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