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  #1  
Old 11-17-2002, 03:33 PM
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Arrow Econo Stoker B engines!

I was wondering if anyone here has run a offset groung crank in a B (400) block with good luck! Im think around 460 cubes with the chebby rod bearing. This kit is available from muscle motors. Ecno strokers. But for not much more $$ you could go with the 4.15 stroke crank I belive. I would rather pay my machinest to do the work on a premium 6 pack crank I have laying around. Also I remeber somthing about welding the throws and grinding down to desired size. I was thinking that the offset ground crank would add 1/8 inch or 3.875 witch would result in a 460 cubes. The 4.15 inch stroke would result in 493 cubes. But I am not sure of how much notching would be involved and clearancing of the rods.
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Old 11-17-2002, 04:11 PM
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I don't think there's anything too econo about a 4.15 stroke in a 400 engine. lots of work to do there.

Your six pak crank in the 400, .030 over will net you 451 without any offset grinding, so why try to reinvent the wheel?
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Old 11-17-2002, 04:59 PM
phoenix phoenix is offline
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Default Stroker combos

The 440 crank lends itself well to conversion as a cheap stroker unit in the 400 "B" block. Either at the stock 3.75" stroke, or modified to reach the 3.900" mark. For a real good job, weld the rolled fillet up using stainless steel and a torch preheat procedure, then, it can be safely ground offset on the chev BB sizing(2.200") at a stroke of 3.900". The caution here, is that you still have the mopar journal width, and if using the chebby rods, you have excessive( around .050") rod side clrc. for a "street" type engine, Fine for a drag engine though, where the Oil throw off isn't such a concern.
Other than that, I've built many of the 451 engines(3.75 stroke) using a cut down 440 shaft(mains only), some, are now 8-9 yrs old drag engines, that ran upwards of 2000 hits at the 10sec flat level, recently, after some freshening, they've now been returned to use as "pro-bracket " powerplants, where I expect they'll do nicely for a few more years. They are very reliable pieces in the 400 block, even when using stock 440 "LY" rods because of the dramatically reduced piston/pin weight.
Does the Muscle Motors kit use the chev rods??
Does anybody Know of a reasonable priced rod out there on the 6.76" 440 length with a 2.200" Chevy big end on the chrysler 1.007" width??
Last time I spoke with Tim at EAGLE they were still negative on a production piece, and I thought they were the best chance becuase they do offer a 7.100 animal for the mopars on the 2.200 with the chrysler width.
I'm out, good luck with your project.
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Old 11-18-2002, 03:12 PM
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I am thinking about building a stroker engine probably the 451. Being in a A body this will help the room a bit. I dont know the nature of these 451 but there could not be much advantage over a 440 other than being lighter recipocating mass, which will rev better. Whats the advantages and disadvatages of using stoke 440 rods with the 451 combo, how about the 400 rods other than being lighter?
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  #5  
Old 11-18-2002, 07:44 PM
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Default 400 block

The 400 block differs from the 440 in the way it was cast.
The 400 has stronger webbing wich strengthens the overal block.
And helps to limit core shift.
If you bore a 440 60 over it becomes 4.380.
As I recall that is equivalent to a 400 at 30 over.
Less over bore means less cylinder flex.
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Old 11-18-2002, 09:40 PM
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Question

ok I got some questions about this , first I was told to bore the block to use the 440 crank as is. and two do you use the 440 rods ? if so what pistons ? thanks I got all this stuff what to do it..
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Old 11-18-2002, 09:52 PM
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While you are having the block bored and preped,you also need to have the crank main journals turned down to fit the 400 block main journals and have the counter weights clearanced to to keep from hitting the main journal casting and webbing in the block
As far pistons you can get them from keith black,aries and a few other very good venders
the piston pin placement is the crictal part of the piston swap due to the increase in rod throw
I am sure i left some stuff out but others here will let you know what i left out or what i am not clear on
cant say for sure cause i'm building my first one and do know i had to clearance the crank throws to keep from hitting the block

Hope this helps
Rider

P.S Listen to the others here , they know a whole lot more than i do,i'm still learnin my self


Good luck on your engine build
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Old 11-18-2002, 10:04 PM
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VernMotor VernMotor is offline
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Question

OK I did not state that right I was told to line bore the mains in the block bigger and not turn the crank mains down ?
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  #9  
Old 11-18-2002, 10:10 PM
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Default stroker crank

if it was mine i would turn the crank down to fit the block,it will be just as strongif not stronger than the 400 crank and will hold up just fine

if you line bore the main journals to fit the crank i think you weaken the main bearing caps by takin to much material out and there for it makes the bottom end weak

just my 2 cent worth ,i'm sure others will say different while others miight agree


Rider
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  #10  
Old 11-18-2002, 10:19 PM
phoenix phoenix is offline
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Default 451

Start with a 440 forged crank, have the MAINS on it turned down to minimum sizing, on the 383/400 size. Specify a decent radius on the fillet, say .060 or so. This strengthens the crank by getting rid of the "rolled" factory fillet. Then take an angle grinder and grind off the square corners on the counterweights at a 45 degree angle until your 45 is about 3/8" wide. Yes both sides, this minimizes the amount of block clearancing you'll need to do, in order to fit the crank in the block. Trial fit the crank in the 400 block and grind out any remaining points of interference. It'll spin part way to start and you can figure out where to grind fairly easily from there. Allow about .050" clearance on the counterweight/block.
Don't align bore the 400 mains in the block to 440 size!!
The 400 cap is stronger than the 440 piece because it's based upon the same cross-sectional area only it has a smaller "hole" in it. Keep the 400 mains, and grind the 440 main crank down to the 400 size.
Advantages; stronger main cap/block,
reduced bearing speed
stronger crank(radiused fillets)
The above procedure is for the "do-it-yourselfers", read "cheaper", than getting the counterweights ground down.
Hope this clarifies, good luck!!
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  #11  
Old 11-18-2002, 10:27 PM
AndyF AndyF is offline
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Manley sells a rod that is 2.200 and 0.990 pins but is Mopar width and length. Part number is 14279. They cost $689 a set.

I have 451 and 470 low deck stroker build up details on my website at www.ARengineering.com

Andy F.
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