Is there any difference?

[Ausydad]

With the exception of the emmission ports under the exhaust manifold, what are the differences between a set of 1981 360 heads and that from a '73 D200 360?

[1972roadrunner]

a little more technology? combustion chamber design? exhaust seats? good question!

[Doug Wilson]

72RR - I just bought a NEW fuel guage sender from the Dodge dealer. Cost me $122 and took a week to get, but they had one!

[Tarrbabe]

I'm no expert, but the years you are talking about have always been stated as the same ports and the same valves. Relsut, No difference.

[1972roadrunner]

Originally posted by Doug Wilson
72RR - I just bought a NEW fuel guage sender from the Dodge dealer. Cost me $122 and took a week to get, but they had one!

actually, i don't think it's my sender. all of my stock electrical guages but my fuel guage went south, then finally the fuel gauge did. i think it's the funky voltage box for the guages in behind the guage cluster - the + side of the fuel guage. it's a new tank and sender so i'm sure it's still good. when i get around to it i'll pull it out and test the ohms when i move the sender...

do you know where to get one of those voltage resistor things for guages? i haven't checked year one yet cause of prices....

BTW: i DID take the wire off the stock ALT guage cause it never worked, it's on an aftermarket guage now. would that have anything to do with it?

thanx!

[Ausydad]

They call it a regulator and it's about $14 down at Auto Zone or Advance Auto Parts, etc........
Should be easily available at Napa as well

[1972roadrunner]

hmm...maybe i should look into that... thanx!

a question though... will i have to run a wire from my aftermarket ammeter to the stock one so things will work again? or will a new regulator fix my fuel guage if thats the problem?

thanx!

[Ausydad]

Use your volt meter to measure what is ggoing in and out of the regulator before you buy a new one. The regulator normally only runs the water temp and fuel gauges. Your factory ammeter should be hooked already or you wouldn't have voltage anywhere in the car........

[1972roadrunner]

my electrical system must be really screwed cause we unhooked the stock ammeter and put the wires on an aftermarket voltmeter...same wires, just different guage - except for the wire that went to the factory clock, it was fried pretty good so we cut it, and took it out. i still have power in the car though.

course, i DO have a toggle switch for my heater (stock controller don't work cause the only thing with vacuum in the car is the dist and brakes), i have a switch for my windshield wipers cause the stock switch for it burned up, and i have a switch for my clearance lights/interior dash lights cause suddenly my headlight switch only turns on JUST the head lights....

oh well...at least it runs good when it runs....

[Tarrbabe]

Don't meen to be the alarmist but, You need to get a new wiring harness and do the car right or you could end up with a burned out shell like I had.

[charger_dan]

Originally posted by 1972roadrunner
all of my stock electrical guages but my fuel guage went south, then finally the fuel gauge did. i think it's the funky voltage box for the guages in behind the guage cluster

I've got an article somewhere around here from a few years back (Mopar Action, I believe) that details how to rebuild a stock instrument cluster regulator with modern solid-state components from Radio Shack. Cheap, and effective.

If you buy a new VR, ask the fella behind the counter if the new replacement is OEM "technology" (bi-metal strip with on/off electrical contacts) or something newer.

I can probably find that article and pass it on (maybe a good tech topics sticky)...