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#1
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super stock springs
Hi all, i have question about super stock springs and relocating them or getting the offset. I am building 67 barracuda with mildly built 440 and 727 trans. There will be a cage, 1 seat, no gas tank etc. just for the track. At this time i cant afford to balkhalf the car and add 4 link or ladder bars or caltracks, so i am going to get superstock springs. The problem is in the mp catalouge, what ones should I get, the spring relocation kit, or the offset hangers? Also which springs would be betterfor this set up, pn4120683 right, left etc. or part # p3412002 right etc. I am also adding frame connectors, welded right up into the car and using 4 30 gears with full spool and yukon axles from randys ring and pinion, thanks people, help me get this fish off the ground, lol I mean up and running of course, Tim
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#2
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To be honest with you Tim and I know your anxious to get your project going but can you wait till you can afford to back half the car? If it is to be a strip only machine the 4-link is the only way to go. You will end up spending alot of money on super stock springs that don't work all that well especially the faster the car gets the worse the springs work. I had a set of super stock springs in my Dart and the thing would scare the heck out of you it had a mind of its own. Last winter installed a 4-link and the car is way easier to drive. The only way I would want a set of those springs is with a set of ladder bars and a floater but that combination would cost more that a 4-link plus weigh more. this is just my opinion and what ever route you decide to go good luck.
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#3
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In picking the right spring , you must know the weight of your. Thats how the springs are sold and when in dought use the lighter weight not the heavier. I use them for high 1.30's to low 1.40's 60 ft times. Car picks up the ft for 20 to 30 ft and comes back down right were it was pointed, so don't let these people scare you. As for the mounts, it is just a matter of how big a tire you want to use and how much room you have or need.
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#4
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My car was setup to run in the 9's in the NMCA class, but it was setup to run the full floater and SS springs, though.
I think that with a 4.30 gear, 440, and 8 point cage that this car will not see the tens. My opinion is that this would be a perfect candidate for a SS spring car. Don't spend your money yet and the really trick stuff until you've got the car out on the track. You need to hone your driving skills, dial in the car, and of course the most important thing: HAVE FUN!! Racing a weekly program is quite a task, and is pretty hard for the wife and tator tots to digest (if applicable/no pun intended). I didn't race for two years waiting to get "just enough" money to get the "next big thing" for the race car, when I could've been out putting chevies on the trailer and having fun. I always thought that SS springs were sold left and right, and then the weight of the car. My current springs are for a big block car that weighs more, so my small block doesn't make the car move around too much. Dartman |
#5
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Tim.....the SS springs are right and left and based on the weight of your car. The 002 and 003 Springs have been the baseline for years.
Yes, the system is dated, but not outdated. 4 link and backhalf is better, but SS springs are perfectly functional, affordable, and will get you on the track sooner. The Mopar SS spring will go toe to toe with the 4 link and ladder bars right up to the 9.50 ET. Quicker than that, the 4 link is the wise choice. The SS springs do not react as quick as the ladder bar or 4 link, but produce excellent results. The 4 link is much more adjustable.....and ladder bars are hard on equipment. Use the SS springs until you need to move up. Caltracs with SS springs work exceptionally well, for the money invested. This is effectively a leaf-link suspension. P.S. I have never had a SS spring car that moved around. If the car is square and the shocks have enough travel, they usually go straight as a string. The relocation kit puts the spring in the longitudinal and gives you about 3 more inches of clearance. The offset hanger is good for about a half to 3/4 inch on each side. |
#6
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great info guys
Great info guys, yup I know save the money and do it right but i jussssssst cant,lol. I will purchase superstock springs and the relocation kit for now. That,s the plan anyway. I can redo later as the car will be a shell basically and doing it this way will get me up and running by the spring. I just have to much on the go lately to tub it and redo the rear frame. I have just finished wifes 71 340 4 spd car and i wish to enjoy my 73 34o barracuda which i have been racing and i just need more. i figure the best way is to build drag only car and have fun with it, hell i might even put a jitch on the 73 and haul the 67 to the track. Just kidding, I don,t get to the track a lot but I am bored and this is gonna be fun. Guys what shock do you recommend with the super stock springs. i have mopar drag shocks on the 73 and it hooks up fine, thanks again Tim
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#7
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Tim....the long Mopar shocks work fine.
On the less cost side.....look for C-body shocks from the 60's, or Dodge pickup shocks from 72-80's. It is the extra length you need, with about 50-50 valving. (the standard on most shocks) Have fun. |
#8
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parts are here
Okay guys just to let ya know, my springs,shocks, and relocating kit are here. Only question here is with the relocation kit, part # says p 4120665, but on the box the part # is the same but it says for e and b body, is this a screw up or did i order the wrong ones. From what i,ve read here this should be the ones to move springs in 3 inches as the offset hangers only move them in about 3/4 of an inch. Soon the car is going to fabricating shop to get the 10 point cage and the springs relocated, thanks Tim
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