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Old 12-03-2002, 11:15 PM
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74norton 74norton is offline
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Question Solid vs Hyraulic Cam choice (440)

I have a 70 road runner with a stock 72 440, 4 speed, 8/34 3.55 shure grip rear end and am running 15x7 wheels all around.

I am planning a series of upgrades to the motor. My budget isnt that big and I am going for a reliable but potent street motor.

I got a set of 906 heads and am going to mill them to increase compression and go with a hipo dual plane manifold. I am currently researching cam choices and need to work through the issue of choosing a solid vs hydraulic cam (going to a roller is out of my budget for now).

So I know the basic difference between the two in terms of how they work but what are the practical issues with changing to a solid cam? Doesnt this require me to constantly adjust my valvetrain? I dont want to have to do this. What changes to other parts of the valvetrain must be done to accomodate a solid cam?
Is it safe to assume that I can find a good hi-po cam that will give me about .500 of lift, good duration and overlap for streetable power across the entire band without going to a solid cam?

Thanks for the advice
Charles
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Old 12-04-2002, 12:32 AM
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I don't like hydraulic cams personally, but I like to race. Solid is definately better for a performance application, as they can be "tuned" to the engine by playing with valve lashes. Even with that, they work well on the street too. 273 and some 225 engines came from the factory with solid lifter valvetrains, and the valve lash only HAS to be set about every time you change the oil, though you can do it more often to maintain better performance. Remember that not all solid cams are for racing only, and you can definately run one on the street, and I would advise it because I have been hearing a lot of other people griping about their lifters leaking, not pumping up, etc. If you call them, some cam manufacturers (Brown, Comp, etc.) will help you select what would be best for your particular application. I would use the ductile iron rockers if I were you (you can get the extruded aluminums, but they will flex more/probably not last as long). Once you get everything except the pushrods, get a pushrod length checker and mock it all up, and get a length that permits proper valvetrain geometry and get some of the chrome moly variety. You have the final say, but solid is the only way to go for any kind of performance if you asked me. While you are at it, you might consider a Performer RPM intake instead of the stocker hi-po job. I have a hi-po intake on one of my 383s, and it works ok, but I would swap it for a new performer RPM in a heartbeat. If you are in the same boat as me and can't afford the $200 bill to buy one, use your stocker, but GET ONE IF YOU CAN! You can lose about 25-30 lbs. and make more power in one stroke, so they are a good buy. Good luck!
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Old 12-04-2002, 12:55 PM
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Intimidator Intimidator is offline
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Default Hyd VS Solid cam

Hi Charles!
I have a friend that has a Dodge Aspen with a 440. Up until a couple years ago it was driven on the street. He has a 509 Hyd Mopar cam in it. It drove very well on the street except for the lawman. I tried to use a solid cam on the street and spent more time maintaning it than having fun with it. Since then he add loose converto, slicks, ladder bar and gear and now runs mid 11's at strip. E-mail me and I can send a photo of his Aspen. so you can judge for yourself if Hyd cams work. Later Ed
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Old 12-04-2002, 09:21 PM
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If you don't like to hassle with valve lash and valve cover gaskets, definately go with the hydraulic. I ran one in my drag car running 12.3's in the 1/4 for three years and it was easy because I didn't have to work on it, this was in a 383. I didn't have to work on it until two races left this year and a lifter hydrauliced on me, ouch. The only reason I am going with a roller setup this year is because I am going for some performance, 451 stroker with a .750 lift/ 286 @50^ cam, so I definately opted for the adjustables. My old 383 was fine with the hydraulic set up except for the 5800 rpm shifts I was doing with it which u prob won't , so good luck
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Old 12-04-2002, 11:15 PM
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Solid cams are definantly worth more power maybe 50 Horses in proper sellection. I have the Dyno 2000 software. Being your going big adjustable valve train is in order. The are a little more maintance but worth it when you step on the pedal!
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