Moparchat - Home of MOPAR enthusiasts worldwide!



Go Back   Moparchat - Home of MOPAR enthusiasts worldwide! > Technical Forums > Performance Talk

Click here to search for Mopar cars and parts for sale.


Closed Thread
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 12-21-2002, 05:51 PM
ohioDemon ohioDemon is offline
This account disabled due to bad email address!
 
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: wilmington ohio usa
Posts: 351
Default Help

the balancer was bad on my son's car. while trying to get it loose

the bolt decided to break off in the crank.

what can i do ??
  #2  
Old 12-21-2002, 08:58 PM
rumblefish360's Avatar
rumblefish360 rumblefish360 is offline
Moparchat Bronze member
 
Join Date: May 2000
Location: C
Age: 57
Posts: 11,120
Default

It is possible to ge an easy out big enuff. But I don't know if the size would ne correct for it.
The other problem is getting a drill bit large enuff for your hand held drill.
  #3  
Old 12-21-2002, 09:37 PM
littlecampbell littlecampbell is offline
Banned
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: canuck land
Age: 73
Posts: 750
Default

....what?.......
  #4  
Old 12-21-2002, 11:41 PM
biggerhammer's Avatar
biggerhammer biggerhammer is offline
performance engines
 
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: ft. worth, texas, usa
Age: 71
Posts: 1,148
Default gettin' it out

you might try a lefthanded drill bit, it always works for me, just start drilling in the center, usua;;y with the load removed, the bit just grabs the bolt and turns it right out!!
  #5  
Old 12-22-2002, 02:01 PM
GON_RACIN's Avatar
GON_RACIN GON_RACIN is offline
Inactive User
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: nowhere
Posts: 121
Default

if the left handred drill bit doesnt work i'd go ahead and get a heli coil for it and drill it out. Easy outs might work but if the extractor breaks off inside your FARKED. They are made of carbide and no drill will drill out a busted easy out so ya might try the easy out first but if she doesnt wanna budge dont put the vulcan death grip on it cause if the extractor breaks the crank will prolly be trash.
  #6  
Old 12-22-2002, 03:16 PM
ehostler's Avatar
ehostler ehostler is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Annandale, VA
Age: 57
Posts: 15,212
Default

In a worst case situation, the bolt is made of softer metal than the crank. That being the case, it can be hit with a torch and melted out.
  #7  
Old 12-22-2002, 07:25 PM
ohioDemon ohioDemon is offline
This account disabled due to bad email address!
 
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: wilmington ohio usa
Posts: 351
Default

thanx guys, the bolt appears to be hardened.

will a solid carbide bit drill it out ?
  #8  
Old 12-22-2002, 07:41 PM
biggerhammer's Avatar
biggerhammer biggerhammer is offline
performance engines
 
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: ft. worth, texas, usa
Age: 71
Posts: 1,148
Default carbide

yes, a carbide or carbide-tipped bit should do it, just go slow and use cutting fluid, try to still use a lefthanded bit tho
  #9  
Old 12-22-2002, 09:27 PM
dirty dan's Avatar
dirty dan dirty dan is offline
Inactive User
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Rockingham,nc
Posts: 1,027
Default Re: gettin' it out

Quote:
Originally posted by biggerhammer
you might try a lefthanded drill bit, it always works for me, just start drilling in the center, usua;;y with the load removed, the bit just grabs the bolt and turns it right out!!
yes this would be the way to go.
I would pull the engine and the crank,before I tryed melting the bolt.
As that much heat would not do the cranks temper any good.
Along with the timing gear and chain.
  #10  
Old 12-23-2002, 02:40 AM
deadhorse66's Avatar
deadhorse66 deadhorse66 is offline
Inactive User
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: LaCenter, KY
Age: 42
Posts: 482
Default

If the lefty drill bit doesn't work, though it should; here is a tip on using easy-outs. When you go to drill through the bolt, go ALL OF THE WAY THROUGH! If you don't, the tool will almost surely break. Also, choose the largest easy-out that will fit into the bolt without digging into the crank threads to get the bolt hull wall drilled as thin as possible. What this does is remove the load from the threads by allowing the bolt to "collapse" just enough for a little clearance. If you use the same type of bolt extractors as I do, it is beneficial to tap them into the hole with a very light rap from a hammer--that seats the extractor in the drilled bore of the bolt. Use light pressure, and if you feel the extractor slipping, back up and tap it in again. My last ditch effort is to use a small chisel or a bushing cutter to peel back one side of the bolt. Of course, the crank will have to have some cleanup work after doing that, but it is better than having to swap cranks. Be sure to use a proper harmonic balancer installer when you go back with your new balancer, and have fun if at all possible!
  #11  
Old 12-23-2002, 09:34 AM
71 Duster's Avatar
71 Duster 71 Duster is offline
Inactive User
 
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: New Brunswick Canada
Posts: 128
Default

You can weld a nut on the remaining part of the bolt and use a socket to remove it, but it would be better to have the engine out of the car and get somebody that can weld I use certanium 707 to do this operation if you want more info let me know. How deep in the hole is it or is it flush.
  #12  
Old 12-24-2002, 08:29 PM
ohioDemon ohioDemon is offline
This account disabled due to bad email address!
 
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: wilmington ohio usa
Posts: 351
Default

thanx 4 tha replies and suggestions
i ended up using a solid carbide drill. drilled through it, opened it up with a carbide tool and was able to back the bolt out.
no damage done and the boy is much happier.
  #13  
Old 12-24-2002, 09:24 PM
Tarrbabe Tarrbabe is offline
Inactive User
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Cumberland Plateau
Posts: 1,972
Exclamation Crank Bolt Shaft

Since the bolt was stuck enough to snap, it will take some pressure to get it out. A torch melting it out sounds EXTREEM to me. I learned this years ago from a mechanic/machinest 25 years ago or more. Get someone that welds real good and place a large washer on the nose. Weld up from the bolt to the washer and then weld another bolt to the washer. Keep in mind, that the washer and bolt need to be Grade 8 or better.
Any machinest worth his sand can get it out.

Just thinking out loud.

  #14  
Old 12-25-2002, 12:11 AM
rtdonell1's Avatar
rtdonell1 rtdonell1 is offline
Inactive User
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: cincy ohio
Age: 55
Posts: 127
Default

Ha Demon im not far from wilmington. Just down 68 in Brown County.
  #15  
Old 12-25-2002, 12:42 AM
skydome's Avatar
skydome skydome is offline
Inactive User
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: uxbridge,ontario,canada
Age: 56
Posts: 186
Default bolt

If it took enough torque to break it, it ain't coming out with easy out. Sorry, take the crank to a machine shop. In the end I think its the only way. The only other trick I know is this. Put a really big nut over the broken bolt. Use an arc welder to burn the nut to the broken bolt. Make sure it gets good and hot. Whack it out with an impact gun while its still hot. Put a new front seal. NOTE. Before doing this make sure the bolt in question is not left hand thread.
  #16  
Old 12-25-2002, 03:22 PM
ehostler's Avatar
ehostler ehostler is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Annandale, VA
Age: 57
Posts: 15,212
Default

Hey guys, if you read the last post from OhioDemon, you will see that he has already removed the broken bolt, from the crankshaft.
Closed Thread


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 01:49 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
. . . . .