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Help. Hopefully someon can help.
I have a 95 Dodge Neon 2.0L SOHC engine w 5 speed. I blew a head gasket and replaced it. In the process I broke a corner off the Cam sensor not harming the sensor. I reinstalled it and everything seemed to be fine til about two weeks after when it started to miss. I did the usual and replaced the plugs and wires and fuel filter. Last time I had a miss like this it was a bad plug wire. Well none of this worked. I had it scanned and it says the timing chain jumped a tooth. I tore it down and checked again. It looked okay but to be sure I pulled it off and installed according to the manual. I got it back together and no change. I then replaced the cam sensor but Chrysler changed the sensor so I had to install a new connector with the new sensor. When installing the instructions said to match the same colored wires. Well the colors didnt match. After installing it now runs worse. Where as before it would miss at 2500 RPMs and 3500 RPMs now it misses all throughout the RPM range. The codes I am getting is 11 no distributor signal. Is it not receiving the new cam sensor signal?? I need to get this car back to running. I hate driving my wifes Yuck Grand Am. I need my Mopar Power Christian |
#2
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You must have a wire crossed. Common colors are black with a Blue tracer as sensor ground and a orange feed wire the remaining would be the signal ...I don't have the manual infront of me but this pretty much a guess. Could be a good time to buy the manual for your car.
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I do have the manual and the instructions for installing the cam sensor. The problem is that the colors of the wires dont match. There is a orange one on both the new harness and the original wiring but the other two wires dont match colors. The new harnes is black w/blue stripe and Gray. The old harness is brown and yellow. I hooked the black with the brown and the gray with the yellow. Any body no if this is correct?
PRO are you out there to answer this question? Christian I may have it figured out just need to make the trip to the parts store to get the part. I think the crank sensor went out and all this time I thought it was the cam sensor. Correct me if I am wrong but the crank sensor controls the timing and the injector firing. All the cam sensor is for is the timing chain alignment. Atleast that is what I am reading. It may control injector timing not sure how this all reads. I will let you all know what it really is though when I get it changed. Thanks Christian [This message has been edited by ChristianCuda (edited February 22, 2000).] Well I was wrong installed a new crank sensor. It looked like it needed it anyways but still not working. Is it possible the new Cam sensor is not any good? I need help on this now and dont know what to do but take it to a dealer and I dont have the cash for that right now. Christian [This message has been edited by ChristianCuda (edited February 24, 2000).] |
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I changed the cam in my '95 SOHC Neon to the new Crane cam today. I did not, and will not, bring it in for a "re-learn". I did remove the cam sensor to slide the cam out. Also, the sevice manual says to remove the head to remove the cam - horse hockey! Move a couple of things out of the way momentarily and slide it out. The only code I set today is "12", battery disconnect. I have no idea what your problem is, but you do not need a re-learn. I had heard about the new sensors having the new plugs, hope I don't have to deal with that problem any time soon
Jeff B. www.scecnet.net/~neonneon/ |
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[This message has been edited by keith3123 (edited February 29, 2000).] |
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Keith I have found another problem or I think It may be a problem. All three wires going to the cam sensor look like they have been short circuited and/or overheated and the the wires sleeve is soft like it was melted. Could a computer be causing this problem or could it be something else. I have not had time to t4race the wires completely and see where the short possibly came from.
Thanks for your help Christian ------------------ 68 'Cuda 383 Working on adding EFI 69 'Cuda Race Parts Car 76 Duster 273 recent transplant 95 Neon 2.0 SOHC best of 16.96 84 Dodge Ram D50 transplanting 360 |
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Well I just finished tearing the haed off again figuring it was warped and the head gasket was leaking after I got it off I noticed the cam sprocket locating pin was broken off. This has probably been the problem the whole time and I never realized it. Hopefully the machine shop can get the old pin out and put a new pin in otherwise its a new cam for the neon. Woohoo. My wife will love that one. I guess I will have to suffer and get a better performing cam. Ha ha ha. When I checked the head for warp when I replaced the head gasket it was close to tolerance so I am going to have it checked anyways even though it showed no sign of leaking. Well I hope some of you read this and hopefully this can save you from all the headaches I have had in troubleshooting this including buying a new crank and a new cam sensor. Mabe I can return them. Hmmmm.
We will see this weekend when I put it all back together wherher it works good or not. Thanks for all the help a much happier Christian Knudstrup ------------------ 68 'Cuda 383 Formula S recreation Working on adding EFI 69 'Cuda Race Parts Car 76 Duster 273 recent transplant 95 Neon 2.0 SOHC best of 16.96 84 Dodge Ram D50 transplanting 360 |
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AAHHHH the old broken retaining pin. This is the result of not holding the cam sprocket with the correct tool while torquing it. There is a spanner type wrench that fits into the front spokes of the pulley to hold its position. Have you tried pulling the broken piece out with a magnet? Usually they are not in that hard and when you do get it out just find a drill bit that fits the hole properly and cut it to size. This pin wasn't designed to hold the cam position, but merely as a guide so the sprocket goes on the same way. It's the torque of the bolt that makes it stay. Hopefully you were not running the engine too hard when this occured, possible to bend valves. As long as the head is out have it checked. The only ones I have seen actually bend valves were ones that were travelling at highway speeds and had a failure. (water pump, tensioner pulley) Use the Mopar steel layer gasket, and get a can of Gasket Sealer from them too. Also there should be a piece of paper with the gasket showing the new torque specs for this part. Good Luck!!!
the Neologist |
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I already have the steel head gasket. Replaced it once already will replace again now. The head is warped is it okay to cut it without valve interference with the pistons???
A magnet should take it out?? COOL!! I dont know when this broke but the engine still ran sometimes it ran good some bad. It ran good for two weeks then started acting up. I havent driven it for three months need the time and patience to work on it. I replaced the cam and crank sensors. How do you tighten down the cam sprocket then without breaking the pin off??? Any other little tips you want to share?? Christian ------------------ 68 'Cuda 383 Formula S recreation Working on adding EFI 69 'Cuda Race Parts Car 76 Duster 273 recent transplant 95 Neon 2.0 SOHC best of 16.96 84 Dodge Ram D50 transplanting 360 |
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There is a special tool for this so if you know someone at the Chrysler dealer maybe they can help you. If not you'll have to make something up. The tool I use is one I put together out of our tool room. It has a round head with a hole in the center big enough to insert a socket through and two studs coming off that fit into the sprocket spokes. I just made a better handle for it. Your machine shop should have the spec for milling the head. It should not be a prob. I have run into two broken pins. (One self inflicted) Both of them came out with a pocket magnet and some help from a pick to move it around a little. Shouldn't be a prob.
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J-body where did you get a replacement pin from? I am going to get mine out but need a replacement for it.
Christian |
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I pulled out my drill bit set and found one that fit the hole snug. Cut the end off the bit and installed it. If you are not comfortable with this the pin is available at your dealer.
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Thanks for all the help J-BODY
I had to drill out the pin and since I did I enlarged the hole and put int a stronger pin. I also in turn enlarged the Cam sprocket to accept the larger pin. Got it all back together and it all works great. Just need to get the A/C looked at now. Christian ------------------ 68 'Cuda 383 Formula S recreation Working on adding EFI 69 'Cuda Race Parts Car 76 Duster 273 recent transplant 95 Neon 2.0 SOHC best of 16.96 84 Dodge Ram D50 transplanting 360 |
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