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#1
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Small Block Dilema
Sup guys, this is my first post here at mopar chat and from what i've read so far sounds like you guys know your mopars....that i like very much...well here's my problem: i'm in the process of building my dart and i've decided to build a small block to go into but i can't figure out if i need a 340 or if a 360 would suit my needs. My plans are to run forged pistons and rods and hopefully down the road run around a 250 hp or so shot of nitrous along with being able to shift at around 7k. Now i realize that i'll need to balance everything and but can i get away with the cast crank in the 360 or will i need the 340 for the forged crank, also, i was considering getting a set of 4-bolt mains for a little added peace of mind, would this also be necessary? Oh and if this helps my basic plans are to run around 11.5:1 comp., single plain intake, 750 or 850 demon, ported and polished heads, either stock 2.02's or maybe some aluminum heads down the road, and the cam is up in the air becuase i'm not sure how much lift a stock head will accept...i'd like to get into the .550" lift range but if i could get away with higher on a stock head i would, ideally my goal is to drive it to work, drive it to the track, run like a raped ape, then drive it home After all, streetable is just a matter of what you can put up with right? Any help you guys could give me or directions you could point me would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, Adrian |
#2
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WELCOME, to build a strong street motor on a budget i'd be lookin' for a clean 360 engine. the longer stroke that the 360 has
[3.58] will provide more torque. the biggest issue is the amount of money you want to spend. i think the 11.5 comp. ratio is too high for street use. i'd go 9.5 to 10.0 cast iron, 10.5 aluminum heads. a lot will depend on the type and size of cam you run. |
#3
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Here you go, this wa the engine I pulled out of my 70 Cuda. It would run this car in the low 12's/high 11's area in full street trim.
I built this engine to run a 200 shot, but never had to. I'll give you a run down of the car combination first. Hughes 10" street /strip convertor 2800 stall/3200 flash rollerized daves 727 w/manual rev valve body original drive shaft w/solid u-joints 4.56 in 742 case - 8 3/4 rear end I had the original springs rearched Southside machines made me a set of liftbars. I ran 180x60x15 rear tires by mcquery soft compound. I made the 3" true X pipe exhaust with 9" flowmaster mufflers holley black with -10an fuel line weight - 3590# Engine: Original 340 with "J" heads Full race prep heads w/ 2.02 intake hughes he3884 cam with crane gold 1.6 ratio roller rockers comp cams spinrgs & magnum anti pump up lifters (hydraulic) arrowhead s/s one piece valves & 10 dgree titanium locks/keepers Modified 1972 port-o-sonic single plane intake(runners & mateing) 850 holley d.p. 82 frt - 84 rear TRW forged flat tops - lightened & flycut for .600 lift Totalseal rings original steel rods - resized, rebushed, new arps & shot peened original steel crank - lightened, turned 10/10 & nitrated, chafferd block - decked & squared, .030 over,line honed & torq plate honed rotating asm race balanced melling high volume oil pump hi/lo repop 6 blade water pump - lifetime warranty cloyes timing set original oil pan & windage tray comp ratio - 12.1 engine run on 93 ocatane & was dynoed @ flywheel when completed = 477hp @ 6400 Thats not to bad for a very stock looking & stock parts motor. I drove this thing on cruise night, to the race track ,raced the car & drove it home. It ran 180 dgrs with factory 3 core rad. When I started racing the car a little, I found out quicly that the original fuel line would not be enough. Ther is more, but this will give you an idea of what you can do with ma mopars stuff. Low maintenance hot rod engine. I have another engine just like this with edelbrock heads race preped in my altered. It produced about 22hp more with those heads & I do run a 150 to 200 shot depending upon the track conditions. I have had no problems with either combinations. It is not as easy to get these type #'s without alot of internal block cleaning, polishing the rods etc.. I run both engines to 7k w/o any problems & have been together a lilltle over 3 years. Hope this helps |
#4
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wow, thanks for the extensive info......any idea on how much power a cast 360 crank can support?
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#5
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i bracket raced a cast crank 360 with W2 heads, and a very heavy TRW piston. The engine would turn 7000 rpm thru the lights. Engine ran for 6 yrs until a rod broke. The crank is fine.
The car ran 10.60s at 124. so the cast crank is no problem at all. |
#6
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beautiful....thanks for the info
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